hydraulic disc brak...
 

[Closed] hydraulic disc brakes

 aw
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Just bought a 2nd hand Klein Attitude with hydraulic disc brakes. I cannot believe how good they are - they are immense!

Only had Vs before let alone hydraulic brakes!

any tips for maintenance?


 
Posted : 30/03/2009 10:09 pm
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Welcome to the 21st Century ๐Ÿ˜‰


 
Posted : 30/03/2009 10:13 pm
 aw
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feels weird...the braking is so progressive and no squeaking or rubbing etc...I can actually go through muddy puddles without dreading the grinding rim sounds for at least 20 minutes!


 
Posted : 30/03/2009 10:21 pm
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as it is 2nd hand i would do a full bleed on the brakes and put some new pads in.

Then they will be even better!!!


 
Posted : 30/03/2009 10:24 pm
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instead you get the grindy disc noise, there ace.
But when they do **** up you'll curse em like nothing else... keep em clean, push the piston back into the calipre now and again to stop em jamming, & replace the fluid once a year as the basics.
and watch you don't pop a piston out, when don't have the wheels in, by squeezing the lever.


 
Posted : 30/03/2009 10:25 pm
 mboy
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Just bought a 2nd hand Klein Attitude with hydraulic disc brakes. I cannot believe how good they are - they are immense!

Only had Vs before let alone hydraulic brakes!

LOL

By the way, the 20th century just called, they want the rest of their bikes back ๐Ÿ˜‰


 
Posted : 30/03/2009 10:27 pm
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if they are working ok just leave them but check the pads and get some spares


 
Posted : 30/03/2009 10:39 pm
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I would bleed them thru with new fluid. Its recommended to change the fluid every year or so as it absorbs water which can lead to corrosion or lower the boiling point leading to brake failure when you need it least. Its easy to do and costs very little in fluid


 
Posted : 30/03/2009 10:46 pm
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Why bother bleeding them if they are working fine? They aren't likely to just suddenly go are they?


 
Posted : 30/03/2009 11:01 pm
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depends on the fluid TJ no?


 
Posted : 30/03/2009 11:06 pm
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My tip is keep an eye on pad material and don't touch them-they get hot.

Don't fix whats not broken!

Check the bolts are tight and don't over tighten.

Last tip: enjoy.

I change fluid every 2 years or if it overheats early etc.

If it brakes fine leave the ****er alone.


 
Posted : 30/03/2009 11:09 pm
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Correct cynic al - most brakes ( except shitmano??) are dot fluid which absorbs water. Shitmano are mineral oil which does not.

Why bleed them thru if they work fine?
Its called maintenance. Fresh fluid is better for your brakes ( even mineral oil degrades but it is much slower to do so). Bleeding thru with fresh fluid every year is one reason why my brakes work well and keep on working well. If you have old dot fliud that has absorbed water it can boil on long descents and your brakes fail. It can also allow corrosion in the caliper leading to sticky pistons


 
Posted : 30/03/2009 11:47 pm
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Whats so wrong with Shimano brakes TJ??


 
Posted : 31/03/2009 8:58 am
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My Shimano Deore hydraulics did 7 years of commuting/Peak/Scotland/Lakes/etc bashing, I once had to ziptie one lever to the bars overnight, other than that it was old pads out, new pads in. Fantastic bits of kit and way better than the Hayes Nines, Hayes El Caminos or new Juicy's I have.


 
Posted : 31/03/2009 9:07 am
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Its called maintenance.

No need to be so patronising. I know the benefits of bleeding brakes and have done mine, but I still think its unnecessary to bleed them unless they are feeling spongy or lacking power.


 
Posted : 31/03/2009 9:12 am
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Maguras are also mineral oil IIRC.

I doubt I'd try anything other than "shitmano" now - 2 sets for 6 years, no issues.


 
Posted : 31/03/2009 9:16 am
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Another top tip for you aw ...

Keep your fingers away from the rotors when the wheels are spinning
There's been a few gruesome injuries in the workshop resulting from a rotor/finger interface.

They look inviting but don't do it ๐Ÿ˜ฏ


 
Posted : 31/03/2009 9:28 am