Gonna get me a upsy downsy seat post. How much drop is enough. I like to do a bit of everything on the bike. DH, UH, Trail centres...
Ive seen a bargain joplin with 75mm - is that enough. also, any recomendations would be nice. I have no option for a remote as i have no tidy cable routing option!
cheers
How much do [b]you[/b] normally drop your seatpost?
Try dropping it less and see how [b]you[/b] get on.
Now you know.
I'd recommend you don't get a seatpost made by Crank Brothers, and I wouldn't waste time with a non-remote option either.
Here's your cable routing solution
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=19014
I'll second what the Rt. Hon. George says - don't buy a Joplin unless you enjoy stripping it down and rebuilding it regularly.
J
you'd have thought someone would come up with something a bit better wouldn't you?Here's your cheap and nasty afterthought cable routing solution
My old hecklers got pretty cool cable stops that you can zip tie other cables too dunno if they still do them or if they are on the rest of the range. But with plenty of folks owning a few bikes and dropper posts being so expensive I reckon there's a market for a quickly removable cable system. like [url= http://www.discobrakes.com/?s=0&t=4&c=37&p=858& ]this[/url] but better
(ie top tube and dropper cable/hose specific)
oh and OP I drop my seat anything between 4" and 9" depending on the bike/trail, been using a 3" dropper and it's ok, upgrading to 4" which should be [i]just[/i] enough for me i reckon. 5 would be better tho.
I personally think that remote dropper posts are not the best. 1st and foremost - It will encourage over use; subsequently this will lead to bad pedaling. You will drop it for everything when often it is not needed. 2nd - Spent so long finally getting to a point where you can ride with only one lever on your bar why then put another lever on there.
A couple of points:
Got a dropper, and I love it, wouldn't go back.
As above, see how much you drop your post now, you need to be able to replicate that.
But, I've started to wish I had a mid position, for when it's mostly down, but a bit peadally.
Hope that helps,
APF
disagree, old style QR I drop the saddle at the top of a hill, if there's a pedally bit in the middle I don't stop to put it back up, with a remote dropper I would. Downhill trail, saddle down, as soon as you hit anything remotely pedally saddle back up then drop when you stop pedalling. None remote-dropper and you're back to almost QR style, you don't have to stop but you have to wait for a smoothish bit of trail before you do the crotch grab.It will encourage over use
I personally think that remote dropper posts are not the best. 1st and foremost - It will encourage over use; subsequently this will lead to bad pedaling. You will drop it for everything when often it is not needed.
Exactly what is 'bad pedalling'? Without a remote a dropper post is about half as useful.
I don't buy the "see how much your drop it now" argument. I never used to drop my post because I really couldn't be bothered with the hassle.
I got a dropper and it's a breath of fresh air. I now drop my post when appropriate and it's changed my riding for the better.
Something infinately adjustable over the range between 0" - 5"
More would be better but 5" drop reverb is definately a good start.
"over use"??? Nah, If you're going to buy it then you'll want to get maximum benefit from it.
I doubt alex222 is speaking from experience.
"over-use"- quite the opposite, the easier it is to drop and raise the post, the less likely you are to ride around with it dropped all the time- pretty obvious really.
Non-remote is a daft idea- luckily my Gravity Dropper was convertible. All it really did in non-remote mode was make me realise how great a dropper post would be, if it had a remote.
How much drop? Personal preference, but for me more is better. I have a 100mm GD and a 125 KS, the extra 25mm is very noticable. Not on simple stuff but once it gets hairier it makes a big difference. Next post will be a 150mm.
You can always manually drop your post as well, so if it's good enough for 90% of your riding, that's still good.
Northwind - correct; I do not own a dropper.
I ride everything with saddle at full extension. Technical descents, jumps, climbs etc.
I think that the gravity dropper is useful but I do not like the idea of a remote. I have seen lots of people rop there saddle for a short descent that they didn't need to drop it for. Then continue to ride with the saddle down mashing their pedals.
At least with an under the saddle lever you are forced to think more about when you are going to use the dropper.
You can always manually drop your post as well, so if it's good enough for 90% of your riding, that's still good.
This ^^^^ is kind of what I was trying to say with the over use.
Yes it is only my opinion.
alex222 - MemberI think that the gravity dropper is useful but I do not like the idea of a remote. I have seen lots of people rop there saddle for a short descent that they didn't need to drop it for. Then continue to ride with the saddle down mashing their pedals.
Dropping your saddle for stuff like that isn't need, it's preference, if they're happier with it down why is that a problem for you?
As for riding on with it still down- that's underuse not overuse!
As for riding on with it still down- that's underuse not overuse!
Fair point. Why the EXCLAMATION MARK though?!
Because I am EXCLAIMING!1!oNE
On my local trails I can ride stuff with saddle up no problem but I normally drop it anyway. If stuff starts to go wrong, bit slippier than expected, get knocked off your usual line etc you've got a lot more room for weight shifts and stuff to get you out of trouble*. So remote for dropping where you wouldn't normally = good thing in my bookI have seen lots of people rop there saddle for a short descent that they didn't need to drop it for.
that's just user error (or possibly they like mashing pedals stood up - works for SSers)Then continue to ride with the saddle down mashing their pedals.
*have had atleast 1 painful crash that I reckon I could have saved if I'd had the saddle down, usual trail usual line but a load of mud where 2 days ago it had been a dry hardpacked trail.
Fair point.
I think I am just against them as a general rule. Maybe I should get out more.
fair enough, i still think they are too heavy shonky and expensive but a 2nd hand one that's easy to fettle is ok with me.
Ok... i think the lever under the saddle is ample. Not sure i want on extra lever on my bars.
concise post; well done.
I got a KS Lev this year; I'm not only a convert but now a dropper seatpost evangelist! 😀
Previously, I always rode with my saddle at full height. Having the ability to raise or lower the saddle at the press of a thumb is a huge improvement. I probably raise and lower the saddle at least 10x more than I shift the front chainrings. Just like moving shifters from the down tube of an old road bike the the bars made shifting easier, the remote makes the dropper seatpost easier to use. The lever under the saddle is obsolete.
As far as drop, I have a 5" and that's been plenty for me. My frame could take the 6" drop version, but I don't think that it would be any advantagge for me and the post would just be heavier. I'm not tall though, so a longer drop might be better for the basketball players. I think that I'd probably be ok with the 4" drop, but that 3" would not be enough.
As far as cable routing, my frame is not set up with fittings for the dropper cable. I just zip tied mine to either the rear brake line or the front der cable (I forget which) that runs under the top tube. Its pretty well hidden.
Alex - sorry, not concise 🙁
Right then, lever under post is better than a QR but not that good! The crotch grab is a technique best left alone. I thought the KS I got was convertible but it's not.
As for the other opinions above about lazy/bad pedaling etc they are miles from the truth.
For the amount of drop look at your bike and the amount of exposed post. Measure that (frame to rails) take off about 2 or 3" and thats what you have to play with as a maximum. After that look at how much you drop your seat and take it from there.
I ride everything with saddle at full extension. Technical descents, jumps, climbs etc.
Thing is, I bet you don't!
I would content that most mtbers with fixed seatposts ride with their saddle lower in relation to their inside leg dimensions than a good road setup (and by that I'm not talking about pub/shopper bikes or even born again recreational mamils but proper road racing roadies).
Bizarrely having a dropper post on my bike means I have it higher most of the time than I used to do, which personally for me is great as with a stuffed knee from road racing days it's the only way I keep the pain at bay for longer rides.
4"
Here's your cable routing solutionhttp://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=19014
I prefer these:
They are too easy to over faff over and complicate a ride.
Same with suspension lockouts as well.
Plus the cost. Pooks dropper is worth more than his entire bike and car 😆
faff over? what faff is there on my dropper? you moomin.
😆
Some people like the saddle slammed, some only like a 1-2" drop (me).
So, to answer the OP: How much are your typically lowering your saddle with a QR? Cos that is how much you'll want to lower it with a dropper-post.
They are too easy to over faff over and complicate a ride.
Quite the opposite. Everyone I ride with has one, no more stopping, or faffing.
How many times in a ride do you need to drop your saddle?
i.e how many descents are there that warrant a saddle dropped?
Say 3 max. Its alot of money and faff/clutter. I had a dropper, I was constantly bloody adjusting the thing. In the end I figured out how to drop a saddle without even stopping.
Testing a Fox DOSS at the moment. Interestingly, it's the separate 40mm drop lever that's getting the most use. Having a foolproof interim drop is so useful for those less steep trails that still have a features where a quick, small drop is nice…
I understand the Gravity Droppers have this as an option too, not sure how it works with the lever but it's definitely an option I'd always consider.
How many times in a ride do you need to drop your saddle?
Not wanting to get into a discussion on the DOSS and price etc etc, but their remote being run under bars (in place of the front shifter on a 1-by or with a LH gripshift) with the interrim drop means I'm using it a lot on fairly routine singletrack descents. I figure a Reverb could be run this way too but I'd miss the interim drop on a separate lever…
I have interim drop on my KS it's called down a bit.....
Yeah but is that [i]"press the lever and hover down a little bit so that it doesn't go all the way down"[/i] interim?
How many times in a ride do you need to drop your saddle?i.e how many descents are there that warrant a saddle dropped?
Need & want are 2 different things.
I have the pleasure of living down south, so I don't get to slog up a hill for 30 minutes, to ride down the other side for 5. The terrain is rolling, and normally with jumps, drops etc, so my seat is going up & down like a hookers underwear.
Yes I 'could' ride most of the stuff with it all the way up, but it's not as fun, or as fast.
Furry muff hobnob- good point. 🙂
Thing is, I bet you don't!
You are quite right. But almost everything. Except massive steep jump.
I also usually get to the top first or second any way giving me time to drop the necessary 1" of post to then go and ride what I want.
Still do want a Thomson dropper (with an under the saddle lever)
hora - Member
How many times in a ride do you need to drop your saddle?i.e how many descents are there that warrant a saddle dropped?
Say 3 max. Its alot of money and faff/clutter. I had a dropper, I was constantly bloody adjusting the thing. In the end I figured out how to drop a saddle without even stopping.
It's not always descents sometimes it's other tech riding and the answer is quite a lot. I ride for longer without stopping now and don't end up with it in the wrong place.
GaryLake - Member
Yeah but is that "press the lever and hover down a little bit so that it doesn't go all the way down" interim?
Yep it's fine as it is a variable down a bit 🙂 more suited to what ever comes up.
Still do want a Thomson dropper (with an under the saddle lever)
Honestly try a lever actuated one and a remote one. There is no way I would get another lever under the saddle post again. It's a step in the right direction and better than a QR but nowhere near as good as a remote post.
I went from a standard post too a dropper (Reverb) on my 456 and the difference is amazing. I used to ride with the post 1-2" above the lowest point my reverb sits at so I could pedal comfortably while sitting, standingand move about well while riding. Since getting the reverb ive found ive not used it too much and do pedal with the saddle at full height unless im stood on the front to get up hill with good tracking. I cant imagine riding without it now on my hardtail. I was going to wait it out for a thomson but I got a great deal on the reverb.
Personally I think if your riding a dh type bike with a dropper something under the saddle is safer unless your using cables to adjust. You dont want to catch the hose and have to ride the rest of the day/track with a post 5" too high!
4"
It also means less upper section on show when at full extension over the likes of a 5" dropper.. when,lets face it, they still haven't been perfected so anything that sticks out 20% less than the other model has got to be a step in the right direction towards it lasting a little longer.
"I thought the KS I got was convertible but it's not"
Which model? The i950 is, I was sure the i900 is? Or have you an i850 or i7
"how many descents are there that warrant a saddle dropped?
Say 3 max."
Maybe on a medium length ride in the peak that I knew
I find a dropper useful when I don't know whats coming, ie whether or not it'll be worth dropping it or not
Trails where the ups are worthwhile a proper pedalling position, and the downs (especially ridden blind) it will help to get more out of with a down saddle (ie drops/jumps/TTFs faster). As can be found in sections of trail centres
"In the end I figured out how to drop a saddle without even stopping"
I did get pretty good at this, it certainly put off buying a dropper for a bit making it hgarder to justify
"I also usually get to the top first or second any way giving me time to drop the necessary 1" of post to then go and ride what I want"
Its alright for some, but waht about all the fat biffers out there? ..
"More would be better but 5" drop reverb is definately a good start"
Why I got a 150mm drop i950
the remote kit being a rip off* imo and the the 430/435mm post length could be problematic for many frames
*I had access to a scrap i900r to rob the remote/actuation levers from
hora - MemberThey are too easy to over faff over and complicate a ride.
I'm afraid this is just mad.
Once it becomes second nature it works well. riding with 2 shifters,a fork remote and a post remote on the opposite side.. I won't argue with Hora! I have been in a bit of a muddle at the start when trying to shift gear,get the post to where I need it etc..
I was Stravabagging at the time and failed miserably ;O)
Agree with what hob nob says above, except need to change one word.
Yes I 'could' ride most of the stuff with it all the way [s]up[/s] down, but it's not as fun, or as fast.
Personally, without mine I'd have to set my saddle permanently a fair bit lower.
So to me, it's less of a "dropper post" and more "riser post" to allow me to sit down comfortably for more of the pedally bits.
If I was getting one now, I'd go for 5" with a remote.
I have the 950l to make it a remote the head needs changing. Not worth the cost. Was hoping it would fail so I could buy a new one.
I've got 4 and 5in droppers, with and without remote. I'd say 5in with remote is def worth paying for.
I use mine constantly on every ride, not just on the steeps but anything rough, techy or jumpy - it just gives you more room to move around and get your weight in the right place. I find it especially handy when riding flats because you're moving your feet about on the pedals more and, without a dropper, saddle height is always a compromise IMHO.
I almost never used to drop my saddle in the bad old days.
4" Gravity Dropper Turbo here, with remote. Feels good to me, but I might've gone for 5" if I had to buy again. I'd probably want to try it first though.
While I do see the point with multiple positions, I'm quite happy with only two as, knowing me, I'd just ruin every ride by pondering which position to use for each section of the trail. Now it's quite simple - descents: dropped, everything else: raised.
