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Hope Pro 2 - Using...
 

[Closed] Hope Pro 2 - Using more wheel bearings than brake pads

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Oh, if I've got the right bearings in stock I'll replace them for you, but I'm not buying any more 🙂


 
Posted : 11/12/2010 9:47 pm
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swap you for some cup an cone wheels?

My pro11 bearings last for ages. Had the wheels 3 years ish - second-hand but hardly used till I got them - thousands of miles use by me. one of five rear bearings failed, none in the front.


 
Posted : 11/12/2010 9:53 pm
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swap you for some cup an cone wheels?

Black 6 bolt XT hubs with black 717 or DT4.2 rims with black DB spokes?

(Which is what I should have bought her in the first pace but I was feeling flush. MISTAKE!)


 
Posted : 11/12/2010 10:01 pm
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In fact, I could just buy some Shimano hubs and rebuild the wheels, then sell the Pro 2 hubs for profit.

So scrub that. 🙂


 
Posted : 11/12/2010 10:02 pm
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I've used stock bearings and BETD bearings, the BETD ones lasted three weeks longer.


 
Posted : 11/12/2010 10:04 pm
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Hahaha! all those bearings look like cheap crap, you can't expect those to last any more than 6 to 12 months. the dimpled effect to the seals and the lack of a lip, they're rubbish.

You're lucky if they cost £1.50 to £2 each, probably 10x for a tenner.

Yes the 6000 2rs and 6001 2rs are larger bearings and should last longer, but the pro 2 is a lot more diverse and a lot easier to service than the bulb, xc or big un hubs!

Run good quality bearings and they will last a while run utter Shite and they will not!

As for everyone else, including the bike shops, have any of you checked the rear ends alignment, as in the wheel mounting brackets also the disc brakes.

I'm not having a go at anyone but a misaligned rear end and brake will cause pressure to be applied unevenly.

As for removing the seals on the outer edge, if the inner edge rotates then it has the least contact and thus largest amount of space between the seal and race, it is therefore easier to insert what ever you are using to remove the seal there. Once you leverage that inner part of the seal out the rest of the seal will follow.

Since the diameter of the inner seal lip is smaller it makes sense that less force will be required to leverage it out and a such it will be easier.

That said since I value learning over everything else, I just went through and tested what you said, I found it harder to remove the seal using your technique for the above reasons stated.

Don't use cheapo rubbish bearings. if it takes you 30 to 45 mins once a year to change them, how much will the extra hassle and time cost you over the long run.

😀


 
Posted : 11/12/2010 10:10 pm
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Peterpoddy, I will give you some bearings for free! , put them in see how you get on, give my bearings a go? 😉


 
Posted : 11/12/2010 10:12 pm
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Dude - if you have a pair for a Pro II front I would welcome the opportunity !


 
Posted : 11/12/2010 10:19 pm
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Hahaha! all those bearings look like cheap crap, you can't expect those to last any more than 6 to 12 months. the dimpled effect to the seals and the lack of a lip, they're rubbish.

Point missed. Sorry, but you have.


 
Posted : 12/12/2010 6:37 pm
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Got two sets of Hope Pro II's and bearings seem fine on mine, front and rear. Had to replace the bearings on a set of wheels i bought 2nd hand, but they've lasted 2 years since.


 
Posted : 12/12/2010 6:47 pm
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do you have the proper drifts/ hub supports?

my bearings last 2-3 times longer since i bought the tools.


 
Posted : 12/12/2010 7:51 pm
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I can't be arsed to read all the above, my Hope Pro III SP wheels have had one set of rear wheel bearings in 2.5 years, the wheels have had extensive use, several 24,12,8 hour races plus regular use throughout the the winters in the Bristol gloop and Welsh grit.

Seems fair to me.

I also had some Pro IIs for a couple of years that suffered similar abuse, I never had a bearing fail.


 
Posted : 12/12/2010 8:10 pm
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