I've got a Planet X pro carbon TT bike and it's got horizontal dropouts to adjust the gap between rear tyre and frame. I've managed to pull the wheel a couple of times at the start of a TT which leads to the brakes rubbing and the tyre rubbing the frame.
I've realised that I'm missing two small screws that tighten to stop the wheel being pulled back. PX don't supply them so I'm not sure where to get hold of them or what size they are.
Here's a photo of a mate's bike including said screw
[img] http://bit.ly/2ts1xpf [/img]
Anyone have any ideas where I can source a couple of these?
bottle cage bolts?
They look like dome head hex, probably M4 so [url= https://www.pro-bolt.com/stainless/stainless-steel-bolts-dome-head.html?thread_washer_dia=570 ]perhaps this may fit[/url] or if M5 thread then [url= https://www.pro-bolt.com/stainless/stainless-steel-bolts-dome-head.html?thread_washer_dia=571 ]something from here[/url].
Obviously you'll have to check the thread to ensure you get the right size
Should be a standard metric thread. Can you pop one out from your mates bike to get the diameter and length? Then just buy a standard replacement. Looks like a button head will fit, but if that's too big then a cap head is slightly smaller
Great thanks. I'll see if I can measure one at the next TT. They need to be hand tightened, hence the grip around the edge of the head, as it's impossible to go an allen key in the gap.
Hand tightened?, you should be able to get a suitable ball headed allen key into the head to adjust the dropout.
coincidentally just been rebuilding Mrs Stoner's PX TT bike fro the Tri nationals tomorrow.
Those tensioners are small metrics. One of Mrs Stoner's is not only missing but has stripped the thread too.
They are M4 x12mm thrumbscrews that you can get on ebay such as
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-x-12mm-Toolless-Thumb-Screw-Stainless-Steel-/122246606855?var=&hash=item1c76773007:m:mPvRcm3kE1aIcdI6EXkT5Rw
There's no room for a tool to work with the screw, hence a thumb knurl. Also you dont "tighten" them, you "set" them. then put wheel back in and check for centring and clearance.
if you find your thread has stripped (Soft alloy, steel screw, honking on the pedals, pushed the screw forward...) then do as I have which is to take an M3 screw and nut, inserted from the back, adjust the nut on the screw (w threadlock) to set the axle distance. Obviously be aware that your tensioner would now fall out when wheel is out.
EDIT - on closer look, the thread on yours looks a little bigger than M4, but the principle remains. Take out the old one and check it with a vernier or against a known nut size.
Awesome, thanks Stoner!