So following on from this https://singletrackworld.com/forum/bike-forum/tonight-matthew-i-will-disassemble-an-axs-t-type-derailleur/
My pins needed doing again. Mech out of warranty now, I thought I'd take a few pictures and make a few notes incase it helps anyone else out.
You will need
To get the mech off: 8mm allen key and chain breaker
Stripdown: Various small allen key bits - security ones with the hole in the middle. I didn't note the sizes but I'm guessing 1mm up to 3mm
Getting into the guts of the motor: A teeny tiny torx bit set again I don't know the size. but like really really small.
Replacing the pins:
Soldering iron
Solder
3rd hand tool very very helpful
small needle noze pliers and/or tweezers
A set of replacement pins. I used these:
bollox amazon link won't work - look for this on amazon: "Mxfans 100x Gold-plated 6mm Copper Probes Spring Pogo Pin Connector"
You will need to undo various allen and torx screws through this process. It's all actually pretty self explanatory (a really nice bit of engineering really, apart from the pogo pins!)
Photos/instructions to follow in a sec.....
1) Get the mech off the bike
Firstly select a middling gear , take chain off, wheel out and mech off the bike. Note the mech free swing position so you put it back on in the right place.
2) Remove the axs battery
3) Remove the cage and jockey wheels by turning it anticlockwise as you face the outside of the mech
3) Mech cage and mechanisms should look like this
4) Remove inner mech hanger plate
5) Remove outer parallelogram plate
6) Prise the bottom of the inner parallelogram plate off. this step, plu4 the re-assembly is probably the trickiest bit. Note the position of the spring against the servo arm
7) Plates should be off separating the cage holder bit from the motor/hanger bit
8) Bottom cover swings off - don't force it
9) Outer hanger plate off
10) Pivots and covers swing off, leaving you with the motor module
11) Remove the AXS button and cover
12) remove teeny tiny torx screws to get into the guts of the motor
13) watch out for these little rubber seals. Very easy to lose and critical for weather sealing
14) Clip comes off the PCB.
I opted to leave all of the motor and gearing in the housing to avoid any problems re-aligning the mech.
15) Solder time. 3rd hand tool worth its weight in gold.
You just need to heat these solder points very briefly and the pogo pins will come off easily.
16) Add new pogo pins. I didn't need to even add any more solder - what was on the board already was enough. Getting the pins back on and straight was the second hardest bit.
17) Reverse the steps to re-assemble. Be careful about the pogo pins seals and also gettign the first plate / mech spring back on.
18) All happy again.
Stuck it back on the bike - all OK first time. No re-indexing needed etc
Hope someone finds this useful. A few basic tools and minimal outlay a lot better than £100s on a new mech.
wasn't that hard, took about 45 mins end to end (my second attempt)
Can’t believe that such easily damaged parts are used. I did the same operation on a first gen GX AXS mech, cost me the price of a soldering iron, third hand tool, a teeny tiny driver set and a pack of pins, still going strong and I’ve got enough pogo pins left to last me many lifetimes!
bollox amazon link for the pins didn't work - look for this on amazon: "Mxfans 100x Gold-plated 6mm Copper Probes Spring Pogo Pin Connector"
It's only good if you can solder - it's a skill, and one of the very few things I can't do. My son could do it, but trusting him to disassemble a tiny rear mech - he's happy rebuilding car engines.
Great write up. A shame they haven't sorted the pogo pins. Hopefully Shimano have a better approach!
I'm putting off trying this on my son's 1st gen AXS because of the soldering issue. Aside from the fact mice ate my soldering iron's plug, the last time I tried soldering (before the tool was damaged!) was not pretty... or successful.
**** that. Mine was shite from the day I got it and I lost faith in its robustness after a few months. Binned it off and went back to Shimano mechanical.
thanks for the detailed write up. No doubt it will help someone needing to sort the issue and you don’t get this kind of info from sram.
I'm putting off trying this on my son's 1st gen AXS because of the soldering issue. Aside from the fact mice ate my soldering iron's plug, the last time I tried soldering (before the tool was damaged!) was not pretty... or successful.
I’d not soldered since school, just take it slowly.
I’d never soldered and it took a couple of attempts but has worked fine for 6 months.
damn the original axs was a lot easier to take apart though
Could be a part time business opportunity for someone.
my T-type GX died on the weekend. 2 weeks outside of warranty. Having said that, Tredz are taking it back to see if they can honour it (fingers crossed) I love Transmission... when it works its flawless. When it stops, you are stuck. I did a day a BPW with 3rd gear only, it took the edge off! If they do warranty it, it will be up for sale and i will go with the mechanical 90 setup.
but great guide. thanks for taking the time.
Just followed this guide to repair my 2 years and 2 months old GX mech. Thanks for posting it. Its defiantly a fiddly job, but £30 for the new soldering iron and pogo pins was much better than £400 for a new mech.
Could be a part time business opportunity for someone.
Funny you say that. When I was searching for guides on how to fix an older AXS mech I discovered a mate who runs a car tuning/auto electronics business has snuck a little extra in. He and his kids have been riding AXS stuff for years:
New Developments at Euro Car Electronics! - Euro Car Electronics
That price would be hard to justify for a battered go eagle mech, but I can see it making sense with red or similar!
That price would be hard to justify for a battered go eagle mech, but I can see it making sense with red or similar!
Australian dollars converts to 130 quid, seems about fair to me.