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Any advice on how to do this without a jig? For £130 I have picked up pro2/Arch 2nd hand kit with new spokes but loath to pay 2x£35 for a wheelbuild. You can take the boy out of Yorkshire but...
Cheers
Rich
"2nd hand kit" - what exactly?
Using the frame and fork is what I do. You can use lots of things to act as a guide for truing accurately.
agree with cynic-al there, whenever i need to tweak the wheels a bit i keep em in frame and just sellotape a small allen key or bit of card or anything really to the chainstays and move them closer to the rim as required when trueing.
I too am a yorkshireman and loath paying for LBS work when its pretty much common sense to do it yourself.
Wheelpro book gives you instructions to build a cheap jig...
You can buy a cheap jig for around £50 and it will last a home mechanic till you get bored of it. If you are tight of cash club together with your other riding mates and get one between you all. It is much easier than using a frame.
Get pencil, fix it to the chain/ seat stay with a elastic band. Bingo! Turing jig.
I Built a front wheel using the forks and my thumb against the stantions as a guide. Ended up with with a wheel less than 2mm wobble, which after tyre is on is unnoticeable. and I haven't died yet.
I thanks your over thinking the complexity of wheel building. Its a piece of cake.
Another vote for "just use the frame or fork" here.
It works for me.
This is rather nifty, a production version of some of the on the bike bodges above and much cheaper than a full Jig.
[url= http://www.uniortools.com/cgi-bin/cms.cgi?doc=10780&prod=768117&sid= ]Pocket wheel tool[/url]
The wheel pro jig is nice but for someone who lacks the tools and woodworking skills like myself it wasn't really an option.
Spend your time fettling a nipple driver from screwdriver, & your cash on a decent spoke key.
Jigs are ok, but I just use the frame / forks.
Do not skimp on the spoke key , round nipples are a pain in the arse
And you can have to much tension in spokes. Tighter is not always better
Wheel pro book seems to get very good reviews and a money back offer if your not happy
I meant 2nd hand wheel parts. I will give it a go in the frame and fork.
Prolock nipples or standard brass? And 12mm length?
Std brasswork fine, 12mm fine if the spoke length is right.
I ghetto built my Enve's onto some DT hubs, been fine so far. I probably wouldn't know what to do with a jig.
I've only ever gone ghetto
I built my first set using frame and forks.
To ensure that the rim is central, when it is "nearly there" leave the pencil/pointer thing where it is and flip the wheel over I.e. disc on non disc side etc and see if the gap to the pointer is still the same. This saves messing around with dishing tools etc. Doubtless there are some frames and forks that aren't symmetrical but most are and this worked for me perfectly.
I then made my own wheel jig from some 25 mm and 50 mm steel angle iron and that works perfectly, and is adjustable for different axle spacings, and the wheel flip technique ensures perfect wheels.
Slinging the spokes in is best done on your lap whilst watching the Milan- San Remo tomorrow. You can get them dead near in the frame. Must admit I some time cheat and take them to the local wheel guru to tension and get any awkward mm wobbles out. At a fiver a wheel its good value and about a quid a minute for him.
"ghetto" wheelbuilding ? 😯
is there any stw activity that can't be ghetto, I wonder - who's pimped their Gaggia using nothing but recycled car parts and a Wu-Tang soundtrack ? 😀
Thanks chaps, I will give it a go.
