[Closed] Genuine Hope rear hub bearings or cheap ones?

I always get mine from qbikes88 via their eBay store.

I get branded bearings from a local bearing factor - somewhere in the middle in price and either SKF or FAG IIRC

Do not use cheap unbranded ones.

Are you braying them in with random sockets or do you have the correct tools and a threaded press tool?

Did the previous set die from old age, or dirt ingress?

The Hope bearings are stainless which is a little softer but less prone to rust. That's why they cost a bit more.

Having tried to source alternative branded bearings in the past, I actually found the difference in cost to be marginal compared to a Hope set. Also, those freehub bearings are odd sizes that you may struggle to find outside of cycling stuff.

I've always bought from local bearing suppliers too. Japanese good quality ones. Can't tell the difference other than price.

Are you braying them in with random sockets or do you have the correct tools and a threaded press tool?

The correct tools from Hope include using a hammer, not a threaded press.

Tools shown include a hammer. If you can press them in with correct size spacers and a thread, why wouldn't you?

Whether Hope show it or not, it's not the best method. I'll also take a punt and suggest they don't hammer the bearings in when assembling new hubs at the factory.

Whether Hope show it or not, it’s not the best method. I’ll also take a punt and suggest they don’t hammer the bearings in when assembling new hubs at the factory.

They don’t. They use a fly press, they have one in the service van also.

The genuine bearings are made by INA or other high quality manufacturer, and as mentioned are stainless, hence the cost.

Also, my Hope bearing tools have a bore through them which perfectly suits a threaded press.

My original point was perhaps missed though. If you're going to consider what is fitted, it also pays to consider how it is fitted.

@Onzadog is spot on.

Gentle installation and not damaging the bearings with a side load they are designed to take is a good point. That can reduce their lifespan considerably.

I'm currently testing Codex bearings in my XC conversion, so far so good. Half the price but not stainless.

Pressed them in with some Irwin Speedclamps and a socket round the outer race, it was surprisingly effective (but obviously not as easy as just pressing them in straight).

Are the Hope ones like their bottom bracket bearings with the double seal to stop water and crap getting in there. Defo worth it if that's the case.

Whatever bearings you buy, pop the seals off and fill with decent waterproof grease. I use Mobil1 blue grease, and it's chuffing amazing stuff. It's thicker and creates more drag, but the bearings aren't high-speed applications like drills.

Yeah, Mobil grease as above, or Bell marine.

I used good quality non Hope ones but there is one in the fhub that's a bit odd in size from memory, not sure where Ive got that from on the past.

Whatever bearings you buy, pop the seals off and fill with decent waterproof grease.

I bought some new bearings for my bob trailer recently. I asked the chap in the engineering shop I bought the bearings from about repacking - he said never to do this - yo will decrease the life of the bearing by damaging the seals.

My hope hubs have quality bearings in it, I never took the seals out, the bearings have lasted many thousands of miles.

I use a craft knife or pick from an ebay dental set to pop the seals.

I practiced a fair amount on old bearings first but it's honestly pretty easy with a fine point and a little patience.

I've been amazed at how little grease some bearings have in them, it seems entirely at random. Hope are no different in that area for sure, unfortunately.

That's because bearings aren't supposed to be packed for general use. Packing is fine where they have limited movement (like swing arms) but we were always taught never to over pack bearings as you can damage them by deforming the balls.

Plus, as said you can ruin the seals.

^^Genuine question here, how does over packing deform the ball bearings?

I've had good life (2 years plus) with cheap £2 each Japanese bearings from local bearing supplier, I'm trying eBay blue seal bearings ATM and they're lasting well.

Don't buy enduro bearings, twice I've had play in them from new.

Press them in with the correct tools and a threaded bar.

Poopscoop - the theory is they skid rather than roll thus create flats if the bearing is overpacked.

Pressed them in with some Irwin Speedclamps

Clever! I am going to try this idea next time I change mine

Don't bother with unbranded bearings and always use a press even if its homemade, you can use old bearings to press in new or you can find bearing/seal press driver kits on Ebay to fit most bearings and use with a threaded rod, I've bought 17 piece kit for as little as a tenner.

That’s because bearings aren’t supposed to be packed for general use. Packing is fine where they have limited movement (like swing arms) but we were always taught never to over pack

This! Wheel bearings are only supposed to be 1/3rd full. Most the drag in a bearing comes from the seal so I’m sure poking holes in the lip won’t do anything 🤦🏻‍♂️

That’s because bearings aren’t supposed to be packed for general use.

Rubbish.

Overpacking can be an issue in the likes of a 50hz motor, running at 2970rpm or thereabouts, as the friction at this speed will result in breakdown of the grease.

You'll get nowhere near that on a wheel bearing.

Bearing failure analysis is part of my role, even in industrial conditions, it's very rare, dry running and contamination are by far the main failure mode.

Ta nobeer. Hence I said theory

It's very easy to spot TJ, the grease will basically separate into a soap like material and oil, and by the time you find it, the oil will have left the building.

Rubbish

So given Hope have their bearings made and packed specifically why do they specify not over packing them?

As you know nobeer I am no engineer 🙂

Every bearing I have had to change is because its rusty but still has grease residue which says to me its water ingress thats the issue. To me removing the seals makes water ingress more likely from tiny damage to the seals. Packing with waterproof grease may delay this but still damages the seals thus you have more waterproof grease in the bearing but also more water ingress and this is what the chap from the engineering shop said as well

Am I wrong?

Do you repack hub bearings?

So given Hope have their bearings made and packed specifically why do they specify not over packing them?

I have no idea, you'll need to contact INA and ask them.

Packing with waterproof grease may delay this

Yes, delay is all you're looking to do, every bearing will fail eventually, packing only delays that.

To me removing the seals makes water ingress more likely from tiny damage to the seals.

Not if you're careful. You're right in that the seal is the root of the issue, we have mechanical seals on site that are over £20k and they have an acceptable leak rate, sealing a rotating component is more or less impossible.

Do you repack hub bearings?

Yes, not on new free hubs, cos the likes of hope free hub bearings you'd have to remove and that would be silly. I only have Pro4 bearings now, fill them with mobil 222 and they last ages.

Great, I'll keep packing them then.👍

I have regularly popped the seals (very carefully with a non-sharp dental pick) , cleaned out the bearings and repacked them with quality grease on all my bikes, and the service life increases drastically, in my experience.
Yes, i had access to an ultrasonic bath , but a plastic tub filled with plus gas and a minute of shaking to dissolve the old cruddy grease and knock any rust or dirt out will do the same thing.
I used to then blow out them out with an air line( do NOT do this near any sources of ignition !) , using a rag masked over the top to prevent any high velocity bits of shit and vapour going everywhere.
I used to use a variety of industrial quality greases, some of them crazy expensive, but stopped when I tried Halfords Teflon grease. Best I've used so far, the red one, which I suspect is the same as the Weldtite red grease. The green Motorex(?) Stuff is ok too, but red teflon I found worked best.
Then, give them a packing, clean the seals and pop them back on.
Not saying this is a magic cure for shagged bearings, but a little care goes a long way. Also useful because a regular service schedule will highlight any corrosion on threads , which is a major PITA if left too long.

Over packing the bearings may cause excess pressure and blow the seals off the races, allowing water and shite in. Im talking about the rubber dust seals now, not the pressed metal ones.
Plus the excess grease will splurge out and cover your lovely bike in grease, attracting grit, dust and all manner of unwanteds, right next to rotating machinery. Like packing your bearings with lapping paste.

I've tested this in the real world by adding grease to one side of a wheel but not the other, a few times now- yes it works, no there are no apparent downsides, certainly if there are any hidden downsides they're much smaller than the benefit of adding grease. I don't think you'll find anyone who's done the same, who doesn't reach the same conclusion, whereas all of the arguments against seem to be hypotheticals or shoehorned from other uses. On bikes, the difference is unmissable.

Back to OP, Hope's hub sealing isn't good but their bearings are, it is imo a place where you want high quality parts. Not necessarily Hope's own but something of equal quality. There are good cheap bearings, but it's hard for us to know which they are, so buying branded makes sense as a punter

btw Hope won't use a hammer in the factory not because it's inappropriate but because if you're doing a whole lot of bearings a press is the more suitable tool. A question of scale more than anything else. Same reason they have wheel building machines rather than a man with a beard.

ogden
Free Member

This! Wheel bearings are only supposed to be 1/3rd full. Most the drag in a bearing comes from the seal so I’m sure poking holes in the lip won’t do anything

"General use" =/ being in a bike wheel. Our needs are very little like industrial needs.

Also, you don't poke holes in the lip, unless you're completely incompetent. In which case, put down the tools and take the bike to a shop before you hurt something that's not so easy to replace.

One quick point heat the hubs ( rag tied round and pour boiling water over) and freeze the new bearings. It makes it so much easier.