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Hi everyone, first post here, any help much appreciated, and sorry if this is a FAQ.
I am about to fit a new transmission group (mechs, shifters, cassette, chain, cables) to my hardtail. I do lots of dirty and/or wet stuff (v obvious double entendre there, sorry) and my cable outers always get very rusty and gummed up at the ends of every outer run where the ferrules slip over. I constantly have poor indexing, which I think I can mainly put down do the dirt and water getting in here.
I'm sure I'm not the first to think of this, but can I run something like SP41 all the way from shifters to mechs to reduce the number of points of egress for this muck, or will this length of outer compress too much for the indexing to work reliably?
Anyone?
Cheers
It works just fine.
Grease each end before fitting the ferrules, and use a ferrule with a nose and rubber boot for the front mech.
Lasts for years with stainless XT or XTR inners.
Job done.
Just sit back and wait for all the flaming....
PaulD
I've had Avid Flak jackets on for about 2 years, snow, mud, dust etc and still fine.
should work, but obviously the cable stops on the frame could limit the feasability. A shield for the inner such as those offered by SRAM or Jagwire would help,
or alternatively, a full set of Gore Ride-on cables would do the job nicely
Yes you can. Quite a few bikes now come with full length cable outers. It does lengthen the lifespan of your cables before you get cable related indexing problems. The only problem you might have is attachign the full length cable to the frame (neatly) as the full length cable prob wont work with your preexisitng cable bosses. The method ive used is to get some of those hose clips that fit onto the preexisitng cable bosses. I cant remember who makes them but im sure someone will be able to tell you. Another, more drastic, method is to drill out the ends of the bosses and run the cable through. Never done it myself but a mate has.
Yes it'll work fine, do it on all my bikes (three full sussers) with SP41. You either need to dremel out the cable mounts or use some clips to secure the cables to em.
Why not.
You could also stick one of those middleburn cable oilers in the middle of each run for occasional flushy squirtage.
Or if you are a lazy ****er like me you can just use a couple of cable ties.
Full length cable works a treat though.
On day one a normal set up is probably a bit smoother due to less drag but the full lenght outers keep working. Last year at 10UTB I had to clean my cables after every lap, this year with full length outer I didn't have to touch them
Woop for full length cables. Look neater and last longer. Open cables are for road bikes... 😉
works fine, cable tie the outers to your rear brake line mounts along with the rear brake hose and then run two cable ties around the chain/Seatstay to hold the far end on the frame down to the rear mech.
I ALWAYS do this, it stops ghost shifting and makes cables last and last and last...
Transfill Mudlovers, cheap as chips from Merlin and work a treat. Give em a good stretch though!
I'm looking at doing this too but spanning the exposed sections between the bosses with more SP41 cut to size.
Or have i gone "full retard"?
Thanks all. Sounds like a no-brainer. Just realised it'll make swapping the components to new frame a hell of a lot easier, too.
Will be using cable ties as I already have some on for the rear brake pipe - it rattles like crazy if routed through the top tube bosses.
nedrapier - Member
Why not.You could also stick one of those middleburn cable oilers in the middle of each run for occasional flushy squirtage.
Another vote for the Middleburn cable oilers.
A must with straight through outers.