[Closed] Fixed road - 3 options

I would be sorely tempted by the Condor in your shoes. I assume Condor are offering their usual free bike fitting as part of the deal, and will swap the stem and bars if necessary to get the right length/width for you?

Yes, they're happy to make changes where required. I assume the ride of the condor frame, given the pedigree, would be about as good as steel gets within reason.

I have a Dolan fxe it's been great, worth considering...if I'd had a bigger budget I would have gone for a Tempo.

Condor from those mentioned. I reckon it would hold its value well if you don't get on with fixed

Holdsworth la quelda?

Costs less than the others would depreciate if you dont like it!

Never ridden one but quite like the idea as n+1 when theyre on offer.

The other thing to think about is what gear ratio. If you've not ridden fixed before, I would suggest discussing this with Condor when you get fitted, since they may be willing to change the rear sprocket if necessary.

That said, they probably supply it as standard with something like a 66"-68" gear, and even if you are very fit and fast, I would suggest sticking with that to begin with, i.e. pedal faster rather than fitting a smaller sprocket or larger chainring.

I've had a Steamroller and absolutely loved it! However the Condor bike fitting service (which I've also had) is excellent, so unless you are confident with what works for you then go for that.

What colour are they? Honestly, priorities.

I've always had a bit of an itch for a Steamroller. Don't know much about the others 😉

What wheels on the Condor? Forget the Surly. Paddy Wagon is a fabulous ride, but it needs £300 hand built wheels to make it fly. Mine is about £1200 with Ritchey carbon fork, carbon bits and harry rowland wheels. It is an absolute joy to ride. Newest geometry is a tiny bit slacker than mine (72.5 head angle not 73)

On One Pompino for £500? Though I'm not keen on the new 'raw' colour.

For a commute, I think its worth making sure you can fit full mudguards, and decent size tyres, and the option of a rack.

TiRed - The wheels seem to be Condor own brand with double butted spokes.

This is the bike. The gold chain will have to be replaced.

https://www.condorcycles.com/collections/sale-bikes/products/condor-tempo-58cm-singlespeed-bike-2017-08

Why the instant dismissal of the Surly?

One other consideration for me is I quite fancy a front disc brake, despite it probably being heresy among the fixed crowd. I have a couple of steep descents on my route which I know I won't be able to spin and I don't have fond memories of rim brakes in the rain in December. That would then tie in with the Kona as the price allows for wheels and fork change.

I have looked at the Pompino and it doesn't do anything for me. Dolan is interesting but preference for steel frame although I know you can get good alu etc.

Gear inch wise I have been riding 72 inches on my route. I can't make it up the final ramp of coombe lane but the rest is all good and I assume I will get stronger. Gives me something to aim for. The condor comes with 71 and the Kona I recall was about the same.

If you want more roadie styles go condor then Kona, if you want more robust go steamroller.

Re front disc. You can run one if you want but a decent duel pivot caliper brake will be more than enough so I would n't get obsessed over this and let it rule your decision. Take it easy downhill to start with as it is a technique to learn. Stick with fixed because once you are over the initial learning curve it's a lovely feeling. Especially relaxing when in traffic.

Surly is dismissed on account of geometry. You want a light, nice handling steel frame that captures the best of steel road bikes. Genesis suffer the same problem. Heavy and sluggish handling. The Condor looks great, might want to check the bottom bracket height as it has 170mm cranks. I prefer low flange hubs rather than track,, personally.

As for brakes, disc is possible but unnecessary. Decent long drop dual pivots are fine. You'll be descending with the brakes modulating your speed, not just spinning.

Old 531 road frame

New back wheel.

250 quid all in.

Why the instant dismissal of the Surly?

They are fairly heavy, especially the fork. They ride well on the road though and are good off road too as can get some pretty big tyres into them. I have had 3 of them over the last 17 years but always change it for something more lively.

If you want mudguards and two brakes the Tempo looks okay. If it were my money I would get a very nice track bike for £1000.

A quick look on eBay shows some very nice bikes under £1000. A Cinelli Vigorelli for £600, a Look AL264 for £850, Giant Omnium for £500, De Rosa Milanio for £1000 and so on. Or if you want steel they are even some Colnago's for around £1000.

Good point about the Pompino - they're cheap. Bad points, they're heavy and lifeless - I've owned numerous steel frames in my time and this was simply awful. If you're in the South East, also look on LFGSS as you'll probably be able to pick up a good deal on a used bike - an old frame built with Reynolds 531 or even nicer Columbus SL will feel a lot nicer than Deda 14.5 IMO

If it were my money I would get a very nice track bike for £1000.

My perhaps unwarranted concern with respect to a full track bike is that it will be overly stiff and uncompromising on the relatively rough roads I commute on as well as having angles which are too aggressive for my relatively inflexible mountain bikers body.

With regards to picking something up second hand, I appreciate it is potentially a good way of getting a very nice bike but with two young kids, work etc I just don't have the time to scour and collect. And I also want something shiny 😀

Looks like the Condor will be a good bet although I really need to get rid of that chain.

I picked up a used Paddy Wagon for £200 a few yea ago. Then swapped the wheels bars, seatpost fork brakes, saddle... to be left with a sub nine kilo road bike with perfect geometry. The SAT 14.5 tubing is fine, but the 350g fork made a bigger change ;-). Most fixed and SS bike are heavy as stock f what they are. What pushed me to the PW was a review in Cycling Weekly a few year back that basically said that despite the stock weight, it was was great handling road bike. So I figured buy in and mak it lighter. Still retaining the handling. I have not been disappointed.

I rid it about 100 miles a week, including medium paced club rides. Gearing is 3:1 which will be too much for your ride. Most stock are 42x16 or about 2.6:1. Cumulative exposure geared for 16 mph at 90 rpm.

That Condor Tempo is a 58cm frame with a 57cm effective top tube. That sounds as though it might be a bit small for you (on your previous thread you said you were 6' 4"). What size road frame and stem length do you currently use?

On the previous thread I linked to [url= https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Kona-Paddy-Wagon-Drop-Nearly-New-61cm-2016-Road-Bike_106473.htm ]this nearly new 61cm Paddy Wagon[/url], which has a 60.5cm effective top tube according to the [url= http://konaworld.com/paddy_wagon_drop.cfm ]Kona website[/url].

I'm not going to waste time telling you that you don't need a front disc: you will realise it yourself when you've descended a few hills using the brakes to control your speed and limit your cadence (as opposed to needing to bring a bike on which you are freewheeling to a dead stop in the rain).

I love my Fixed Surly Cross-check so id say Surly. But it does fail in that the fork does not have mudguard eyelets and only one bottle cage mount, so get a cross-check instead :0).

I love Surly handling, I appreciate its not 'lively' but for commuting on fixed I prefer something that just gets on with the job without having to think, you just ride, its so nice. It also means its solid as a rock when your legs are spinning like a loon, which mine do a lot as im currently on 66" gearing as ive a lot of hills to climb.

Threads like this should have more pictures...

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They are fairly heavy, especially the fork.

This isn't necessarily a bad thing when you're 6'4". You could build up a gate-sized Steamroller to something like 9kg without much effort or expense and that's plenty light enough, while still being bombproof.

The Cross Check (or Straggler) is a good call if you need luggage, but it depends what sort of commute you're doing. Maybe you take clothes in by car one day, in which case you don't need to carry anything other than stuff to tighten bolts and fix punctures.

For a two-day-a-week 16 mile each way commute I'd want dyno lights and mudguards and that's all; YMMV.

If you don't like the gold chain I'll have it, I love them 😉 Or if it's any consolation, it'll be black in no time anyway and you never need to clean a fixie so it won't be coming back up gold.

Been commuting on a Condor Pista for 13? years now. Used to do about 8k a year on it when I lived in London and it never missed a beat.

Condor wheels are great as they're proper handbuilts (or at least they were when I bought) and have survived all manner of abuse.

You won't be going any quicker DH than you can on the flat so I'd say don't worry about the disc. Riding fixed you need to think much further ahead anyway so it's rare you find you just need to *stop*.

I looked at a Surly when I got the Condor but came to the conclusion they were basically the same quality as an On-one with some better marketing and a more "exclusive" price tag.

If I was buying off the shelf, I'd probably look at the Kona, but given Condor is an option and they'll fit you and tweak parts etc, plus the better wheels - I'd say it was a no-brainer to go that way.

That used Kona is a right tempter. Must...Resist...

That Condor Tempo is a 58cm frame with a 57cm effective top tube. That sounds as though it might be a bit small for you (on your previous thread you said you were 6' 4"). What size road frame and stem length do you currently use?

Sorry, technically 6ft 3 and a bit. Yes, I was worried it would be too based on the numbers so I popped in yesterday. Sat on the bike I apparently had the correct 'right angle' shape between torso and arms whilst from a standover perspective there was apparently the right amount of clearance. It certainly didn't feel like I needed a high top tube. The reach is noticeably short based on the numbers but I'm not sure what influence that has. The bars on that bike are only 42cm and I usually ride 46cm and they felt very shallow for the drop section.

I appreciated that link you hunted down the other day (didn't mention that in previous thread) but I think, especially now, the 61 will be too big.

I currently ride a Pinnacle Arkose 2 in XL from 2015. The geo chart is on this link but have it set up with 10mm beneath the stem and then a 100mm, 10 degree rise stem. Aero I am not 😀

I don't need to take any clothes with me on the commute. Already have some decent exposure night riding lights for mtb so whilst a dynamo would be a nicety I don't feel its worth it from a monetary perspective.

basically the same quality as an On-one

I've had four Surlys and at least seven On-Ones and the Surlys are better quality, especially now that EN testing has made Inbreds dead lumps (I was a big fan of the early ones, but the new ones not so much). The welds on Surlys are always very neat and I've yet to see a quality control issue. The decals fall off if you so much as fart within twenty yards, but that's it.

They're all made from pretty basic piping, but Surly do a really good job with it.

whilst a dynamo would be a nicety I don't feel its worth it from a monetary perspective.

Oh, it's probably not (though SJS have a Shimano hub for £20 at the moment), it just completes the whole "get home, dump it, get up the next day, ride it" 365-day zero maintenance thing of a fixie. In normal operation there's literally nothing you'd ever need to do to it 🙂

I looked at a Surly when I got the Condor but came to the conclusion they were basically the same quality as an On-one with some better marketing and a more "exclusive" price tag.

I went from a Pomp to the cross check, literally swapped frames over and went our for a ride. Cross check is much more mellow, and more comfortable too. Very different feel, material doesnt dictate everything. Your not wrong about the price though, but everyone who does steel has had to bump prices to maintain quality (except on-one who were already at the bottom in terms of QC).

Already have some decent exposure night riding lights for mtb so whilst a dynamo would be a nicety I don't feel its worth it from a monetary perspective.

double post..

The reach is noticeably short based on the numbers but I'm not sure what influence that has.

It's good to hear you've had the chance to sit on it. I always think - never mind the numbers, does it feel 'right'? If it feels right and looks right, it probably is right. Incidentally the photograph on Condor's website shows the bike with an inline seatpost: given the 73 degree seat angle, you might find that you want/prefer/need the saddle further back (again, I would hope that Condor would identify this as part of the bike fit and offer to swap to a layback seatpost if appropriate).

The bars on that bike are only 42cm and I usually ride 46cm and they felt very shallow for the drop section.

42cm certainly sounds narrow relative to your height, and if you normally ride 46cm I would want no less wide a bar on a fixed gear, especially when climbing out of the saddle on a steep hill and 'pulling' on the hoods. Personally I would not worry about the shallowness of the drop, but then I am inflexible and stay on the hoods.

The Tempo already has mudguards, and as for other accessories and upgrades like dynamos, a disc front fork etc. etc., I would say hold off spending your money and just ride it as it is for a good few months, or better still through the winter. You will then have a much clearer idea in your own mind about what you really want/need.

@lunge, if you are tempted but the 61cm is too large for you, Triton Cycles have a 59cm 2016 Paddy Wagon for £449 [url= https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/road-bikes-c5/road-c37/kona-paddy-wagon-drop-road-bike-2016-p17226 ]here[/url].

@lunge, if you are tempted but the 61cm is too large for you, Triton Cycles have a 59cm 2016 Paddy Wagon for £449

To reemphasise, MUST RESIST!!!!!

Personally I would not worry about the shallowness of the drop, but then I am inflexible and stay on the hoods.

Appreciate the input. What I meant here was that the distance between the flat section of the bar that goes through the stem and the front of the bend where the brake hoods are clamped onto is very short relative to what I am used to. Like you I very rarely go on the drops. Whilst there is optionality in parts the spec'd bars only go to 44cm based on their website so looking at it I think it would be a cost extra.

Never mind Lunge, that Kona is tempting for me too. Hadn't seen a 59cm discounted to that degree. £600 between that and the Tempo is a big difference, especially when it seems the Kona frame is considered 'good steel'. A difference that would allow for some nice wheels, carbon seatpost and whatever bars I fancy, within reason, should I feel the need.

What I meant here was that the distance between the flat section of the bar that goes through the stem and the front of the bend where the brake hoods are clamped onto is very short relative to what I am used to.

I would not get hung up about that distance: it's something which is particular to the bars, which you can change (if necessary in conjunction with a shorter stem to maintain the same relative position of the hoods on handlebars with more forward throw), whereas you cannot adjust the frame and the top tube length is key.

I note also that in the Condor photograph the brake levers appear to be rotated back a bit (and/or the bar themselves are), which may account for that seeming reduced distance between the flats and the hoods. This is not necesarily a bad thing: you might prefer the hoods at that angle, but equally you could rotate the bars and/or levers forward (top of the hoods more horizontal, like modern STI/Ergopower shifters tend to [i]have[/i] to be positioned) or switch to a bar with more forward throw.

Whilst there is optionality in parts the spec'd bars only go to 44cm based on their website so looking at it I think it would be a cost extra.

In that case I would say pay the extra to get it right. In fact it might be better that way: if Condor are only offering a limited choice of bars, e.g. just that one shape of bar with what you feel is not enough forward throw or width, then it would be better not to restrict yourself to just that choice. If you know the bars on your current bike work for you, then I would want the bike fit to be undertaken using (or with the option of using) the same or similar shape and size of bars. If Condor's upgrade charge for the right shape/size (for you) of bar is too expensive, e.g. if they only have it in a carbon version, then still get yourself fitted with that bar, but take the bike home with the stock 42cm bar and buy the right shaped/size bars online and fit them yourself.

I'm a fussy so-and-so, and I generally do not tape the bars on a new build until I've ridden it a few times, because I like to get hood positions and the bar rotation just right for me.

Lunge, would another picture of mine help 😉 ? It's a nice bike that gets even better with upgrades. I'd quite like a nicer frame, but chose a disc wheel instead!

Maybe not Lunge but I would quite like to see your blinged up Paddywagon.

Gotama, if you go for the 59cm Paddy Wagon from Triton, check that the bike is supplied either with an uncut steerer, or that not too much of it is cut and that there are plenty of spacers under the stem to allow you to get the right position. According to their respective geometry charts the Paddy Wagons have shorter head tubes than the Condor Tempo, and in my experience there is a risk that the mechanics who assemble for the online retailers can chop off too much of the steerer.

Oh alright... Summer livery, 8.5 kg and not wearing the lighter Mavic Reflex rims and tubs. It's currently sporting a -17 degree Thomson stem and matching Thomson seatpost (collars and cuffs need to match 😉 )

[img] ?oh=6961542288c98f87effd599f8640ba95&oe=5A0CC264[/img]

In winter it acquires different monocoque forks and mudguards and a rack for my briefcase.

*coughchaintensioncough*

the Paddy Wagons have shorter head tubes than the Condor Tempo

That is a good spot. There is quite a difference in stack height between the 58 condor and the 59 Kona, 23mm to be precise. I felt comfortable sitting on the Condor as it is in the pic which looks like there is about 30mm of spacers. I could probably experiment with lowering the condor but trying to add 50mm of stack may be an issue and even if it is possible it will look stupid which is perhaps more important 🙂

If anything it seems to me that it is the Condor that has unusual measurements. When I first saw the photograph of the bike the head tube struck me as being very long relative to the top tube length, whereas everything looks in very classic proportions on TiRed's Paddy Wagon above (even the saddle to bars drop is not that large given that the stem is slammed), although TiRed's frame looks like it is a smaller size and I don't know if the relative proportions would be the same for a 59cm.

It might be worth doing a bit more research, such as checking for any posts on these frames on [url= https://www.lfgss.com/ ]LFGSS[/url] or even joining that forum and asking their advice. One possibility that occurs to me is that Condor may have deliberately opted for short top tubes (and possibly longer head tubes) to make the frame more attractive to fixed gear hipsters wanting a more upright position for riding in London trafffic*.

In other words, I would have expected the Kona geometry and sizing to be more conventional, given that it is a global brand and will want the bike and frame to have the widest appeal.

That all said, the right bike for you is the one that fits you, and if that is the Condor, then that is the right bike for you.

* Edited to correct a brain fart.

I've got a Condor Pista, a Steamroller and a Pompino, I've also owned 2 other Pomps and Rollers. I'm selling the Condor, it's really good but a bit nice for everyday riding and not as good an all rounder as the others. I had a Pompino, but I love Surly so sold it to buy a Steamroller, it turned out slightly too big, so bought a smaller one, I use it a lot on tow paths and cycle tracks, I was offered an early version at a really silly price so bought it and swapped all the bits over from the Surly, I'm really Surly biased, but I have to say, back to back the Pompino rides better, it's lighter, as comfortable and I've gone down a tooth on the rear......and the best fixed I've ever owned? An unknown 531c fixed bike I bought for £70, rode for years and sold it on (for a profit), would love it back.....

and the best fixed I've ever owned? An unknown 531c

Same here. I have had around 10 or so fixed frames and the best ride is from a 531c I bought a year ago. Seems to be a great tubeset.

OK, which one of you buggers posted the link to the discounted Paddy Wagon? Whoever it was, you've just cost me £400. Interest free credit though, so that makes it ok...

That's just the start. Get Harry to build you some wheels. I've sold two pairs for him already. You'll love it.

So, the Paddy Wagon has arrived and it's lush. Small scratch by the seat tube but nothing to worry about.

Working from home today has allowed me to set it up and have a quick test ride up the road. Conclusion so far is that:
1. It will be fun.
2. My knees are going to hate me.
3. The saddle will take some getting used to.
4. It's just the right side of hipster to not look too embarrassing with a 40 ish year old MAMIL on it.

You'll need a 15T on the back to maintain progress. A 14T for club riding. Unless you are in a hilly area, your knees will be fine. You just stand up a lot more (and subconsciously).

I eventually ditched pretty much all of mine except the cranks, brake levers and frame. My bars are 46cm Ritchey Streem for extra cranking leverage. But the single biggest upgrade was the wheels. PW stock wheels are "robust".

TiRed, I'll see on the rear cog, I'm pretty fit and tend to grind not spin anyway, I'll try and few rides and see how it feels.

Re. finishing kit, it's meant to be a commuter bike so don't want to spend too much but I already have some lovely Easton carbon bars in the garage that'll likely go on it along with some better tyres. "Robust" wheels are fine too for the moment though if I see a bargain online...

Some interesting posts on here, I'm currently researching a SS for winter road road use.

So far top of my list is a All City Nature Boy 531 build - it's coming out at circa £2k though with mechanical discs, decent wheels and a good mix of components.

I will however look at the ON One as I'm guessing I could save a grand. Just wonder if it will be as nice or if I'd be left thinking I shoulda bought the All City............

Anyone owned both?

I had a pompino for commuting and now use a proper track bike (Singular special). The pomp was a much more comfortable ride compared to the singular (as you'd expect), I did some pretty long rides on it as well as commuting, maybe put 3k over a year on it. The Singular is miserable over anything above 20 miles, but its bloody quick up to that point.

I've found with fixed it's less about the frame and components and more about the position and gearing. I run a 48/16 on the singular which is maybe a little over-geared but it's light enough to get away with it for the most part. The Pomp had a heavy build with standard wheels, the Singular is quite pimp with Ritchey finishing kit. Having done a fair few miles on both I'd say I'd struggle to notice if you swapped the bits over between the two.

I wouldn't bother with discs on a fixed - I've yet to wear out the front wheel on mine after 6k miles through all weathers. Discs would just add weight and complexity, plus apart from Surly I struggled to find a fixed disc compatible rear hub in the correct width - remember on the Nature Boy I think it runs 135mm rear so not your standard 120mm fixed rear hub. For reference I have a couple of disc'd road bikes and it makes sense on them, on fixed you're using your legs to slow you down or just feathering the brakes down hill to scrub speed (especially when I'm unfit!).

If the Pompino fits you, I'd have one of those with a decent set of hand builts (for pimp reasons) and save the money.

Thanks for the input on the Pompino.

Yes Surly hubs for the Nature Boy.

I'm not looking to go fixed, just SS so do wonder if I'd benefit getting discs?

In terms of weight, finish etc how would you rate the Pompiono against say a Condor or the Nature Boy 853?

Bike is basically for winter club runs.

Finish on my pomp was terrible to be fair but then it was day-glo green so I was happy for it to flake off. I figured if it ever bothered me that much then I'd just have it painted. Weight wise again it was quite heavy for what it was, however on a fixed on rolling terrain you notice it must less - never bothered me and I'm normally the first to start whinging about a heavy bike.

SS - then yes, discs would make sense. Having used mechanical and part mechanical/hydro and now full hydro, for a winter/commuter I'd always go full hydro - personally I've found cable operated solutions to require a lot of maintenance which just got on my nerves in the end. That said, BB7's are much better than TRP Hy/RD's if I was to go down that route.

As an aside, as much as I love fixed, I hated SS on the road. Worst of all worlds in my book. Some people love it, but I just couldn't get on with it, even when I wanted an easy day.

The wheels on my PW were unbelievably heavy. I swapped the front for a Mavic Askium that I got in the sale at Canyon for about £35. It's over a pound lighter than the standard wheel!
Still haven't got round to sorting a rear wheel yet though.

Thanks Flange why is it that you hate SS on the road and feel it's the worst of all worlds?

On a fixed, you get the 'flywheel' effect - once you're on top of the gear it takes little effort to keep it up to speed (unless you're a certain Cervelo timetrialist off of this forum who pushes a mental gear and does mental tt times!). On the flat it's quite easy to sit there spinning along enjoying the view, benefitting from being 'pushed' along (for want of a better phrase) which you don't get with a SS setup. I found when riding SS (and especially after riding fixed) I'd be out the saddle sprinting everywhere or sat down coasting - it felt like the wrong gear everywhere. Obviously it's different strokes for different folks - years ago I did have an SS roadie and can't remember hating it, but then went fixed and never wanted to switch back. I have flipped the wheel round when I've wanted an easier commute in (flip/flop hub with a freewheel), but I find it harder work and end up switching back.

Agree, SS on the road just feels wrong and I always feels like I need to change up a gear whereas I don't feel like that on fixed. Fixed also means I don't need any brakes* so even less maintenance and weight

*I live rurally with no traffic light, roundabouts and very few junctions and can ride 20 miles without needing to even slow down.

I wouldn't bother with discs on a fixed - I've yet to wear out the front wheel on mine after 6k miles through all weathers. Discs would just add weight and complexity, plus apart from Surly I struggled to find a fixed disc compatible rear hub in the correct width - remember on the Nature Boy I think it runs 135mm rear so not your standard 120mm fixed rear hub. For reference I have a couple of disc'd road bikes and it makes sense on them, on fixed you're using your legs to slow you down or just feathering the brakes down hill to scrub speed (especially when I'm unfit!).

My commute is hilly enough that i run 42/17 (66") to gives me a sweet spot of 90rpm at 17mph which is my average speed for seemingly no effort (had 42/16 but it was just that bit too high so at normal speed my legs were turning too slow or needed a little effort to maintain speed). Even with the small gear i only lose out downhill on one hill, but its full of traffic lights and junctions so i never really get over 20mph anyway.

Brakes front and back to save the legs trying to brake to a stop downhill. Might put a disc on the front as ive got a spare disc fork i can use, but need to find a disc-dynamo hub to replace the non-disc one ive got now.

Thanks for the SS / Fixed comparison chaos.

Quote received today on the All City build, BUT I've been looking at 2016 Paddy Wagons for around a quarter of the price! Sure the frame on the All City is 853 Vs 520 but is there really that much of a real world weight difference?

Components, wheels, forks are obviously much nicer on the AC but again I'm buying a winter bike for club runs.

I do wonder if I'd regret buying the AC when the PS is so cheap?!

First commute in on the Paddy Wagon following it's first proper ride this weekend and conclusions are as follows:
Gearing is about right for me, a touch hard for the climbs but nothing to worry about. As a grinder not a spinner I'm not sure I'd want it any easier as...
Downhill is harder than uphill, I am not a spinner, the 42:16 gets to me to 25mph at 120rpm ish, that's about as fast as my legs will go and a lot faster than they go normally.
The saddle is horrible, it's already been replace by something from the spares box and another saddle is on it's way. Within 5 miles of leaving thehouse I felt like I was being cut in half.
Either the bars or the brake levers are also a bit odd, I need to have a play with the position as it's just not right at the moment.
My pedaling technique is terrible, cadence too low, don't spin circles, not good. Hopefully riding fixed work help it.
My legs are aching in places they never have before, I think this is a good thing.

Overall though it's awesome, I like it a lot, so different to my other bikes, a great addition.

I get sore just behind the outside of my knees from extended down hill riding. Never done anything in my life that works out that muscle, to the point I had no idea there was even a muscle there!!

Downhill is harder than uphill, I am not a spinner, the 42:16 gets to me to 25mph at 120rpm ish

That will improve over the months. You need to relax and just let your legs go with it. Have been at it for years now but I hit over 200 rpm down a couple of hills, one of them off road (which keeps me awake!)

200 rpm 😯 😯 😯 😯
That's some going, fair play. In fairness, I do get a bit of fear as I go too fast, my legs feel very out of control!. There's a 1 mile steep downhill on the way home that I normally hit 50mph on, I'm a little nervous about it already.

Downhill is harder than uphill, I am not a spinner, the 42:16 gets to me to 25mph at 120rpm ish, that's about as fast as my legs will go and a lot faster than they go normally.

There's a 1 mile steep downhill on the way home that I normally hit 50mph on, I'm a little nervous about it already.

Just keep your speed in check before it gets too high and you should be fine. If you start bouncing on the saddle you are spinning more than you are used to.

Just keep your speed in check before it gets too high and you should be fine

I drag my brake on downhills above 30 mph. I'm on 42x14, so 3:1. I found 42x14 was under-geared for club rides. It's pretty flat here though. I first stepped up to 42x15 and then made the final jump to 3:1. It's too big a gear into a headwind, but character building 😉 On club rides, I max out over long periods at 27 mph (140 RPM) - and am hence dropped on the downhills. Furthest ride to date is 240 km.

I found the Kona bars had a very shallow drop, but they may have changed.

35 mph on 42x16 must be very very hard (207 RPM)!

I found the Kona bars had a very shallow drop, but they may have changed.

35 mph on 42x16 must be very very hard (207 RPM)!

That's not 207rpm

48x19 here. Wouldn't want any higher. Max out at 40mph but that's quite scary. I'm usually braking before I get that spinny 🙂

Opted for the Kona in the end, the purple 2017 one. Only a few rides in but very pleased with it, the ride from the frame is exactly what I was after and is night and day when compared to the alu road bike I was using. Only swapped the tyres out at the moment but will change the bars. If anyone has any recommendations for 46cm wide bars I would appreciate it, struggling to find any online. Wheels will follow at some point, possibly after winter.

Questions...is there any specific technique for braking bar just picking up when the pedal is at the bottom of the stroke and applying downward pressure through the upstroke? Secondly, steep downhills, what do people do? There’s one on the way home that averages -8% over 1.4km with the top third being notably steeper before it flattens towards the bottom. Spin to your controlled max and then use the brakes to avoid going beyond that speed or try and keep it controlled using the pedals all the way down? I found I couldn’t hold the bike back using just the pedals so sat pretty heavily on the brakes for a fair way down, trying to brake as much as I physically could with the pedals.

On a hill like that I would control it from the top. Especially in the wet. You'll find your ability to keep the bike under control using your legs only will improve rapidly, though I will often drag the brake a bit too (I ride front only) if it's a really steep section. It's not much fun trying to slow the bike in an emergency once your legs are doing 10,000 rpm.

Congratulations on your new bike. I hope it will give you many years of enjoyable riding.

If anyone has any recommendations for 46cm wide bars I would appreciate it, struggling to find any online.

What brand and model are your existing 46cm bars?

Most manufacturers measure road bars from centre to centre, but one or two measure from outside to outside. I think it's very possible that you have the latter, and if you measure the bars you will find that their c-c measurement is close to 44cm.

As for leg braking, why? I don't like doing it myself, I don't think it offers any significant fitness/strength benefit, and as far as I am concerned the whole point of having two brakes on a fixed is to use them and not need to leg brake.

I'm running Ritchey Stream 46cm. Nice and flat tops for comfortable hand resting (and moar aero). Long straight hand positions too for comfort on the drops. Match the forks. Wider bars mean a shorter stem may be needed.

Rode a nice 100 km last night and was dropped by the medium group (going down hill of course). A fixed wheel in a group does keep the surging down when riding through and off, but 137 rpm was my max, 127 for sustained periods.

I brake with two proper long drop Shimano dual pivots. Never the legs. Leg pressure will modulate speed (see above), but stopping a bike, not a chance.

EDIT not the stream but comp are fine too http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ritchey-comp-road-curve-handlebar/rp-prod112175

Existing bars are the standard Kona jobbies which feel too narrow. I also find the hoods quite uncomfortable compared to my TRP hydro ones. They seem really narrow. I looked for those Ritchey Streams but struggled to find them. I like the idea of flat tops for comfort, aero, pfft, I'm 6ft 4, a flat bar isn't going to help 🙂

Interesting re braking. I just assumed with fixed road the holy grail was essentially riding without using the brakes everywhere, albeit keeping them on there for emergency.

Brakes - is there a big difference in power between a reasonable set of shimanos and the standard issue ones on the Kona which I think are basic TRP?

Edit: thanks TiRd, back in stock on the 18th so will wait until then.

Brakes - is there a big difference in power between a reasonable set of shimanos and the standard issue ones on the Kona which I think are basic TRP?

According to the Kona website, the brakes are Tektro 359. I've got other Tektro brakes on one of my bikes and have not noticed any difference between them and Shimano 650 medium drops, but [url= https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=115514 ]this thread[/url] on the CTC forum suggests that you might find that the Shimano 650s would be a noticeable improvement.

I also find the hoods quite uncomfortable compared to my TRP hydro ones

You might find it's a case of adaptation/what you are used to (I prefer the narrower hoods that were the norm prior to the introduction of STI and Ergo shifters). Changing the position of the hoods on the bars can change the effective profile of the hoods where your hand comes into contact with them, and you could experiment with that.

Otherwise there are levers which are wider, like [url= http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cane-creek-scr-5-brake-levers/ ]these[/url], which look like they have the same profile as second generation Ergo levers.

It's fun to ride 'brakeless' and is one of the reasons I like to commute on a fixed - because it adds a bit more interest to what is otherwise a pretty monotonous routine. Actually riding a bike without any brakes attached to it is a whole different ballgame. Tried it for a while but it can get sketchy and it's not worth it!