I'm going to be the first to say 8-11 look battered, those were also the ones you indicated slipped.
That chain checker design is not the most accurate btw.
For me, the cassette wear looks more uneven than mine. It is usual to get more wear in 6-11 but that looks quite aggressive to me. 1-7 and 11 + 12 look fairly fresh so I'm guessing most of your miles are in 8-10?? That focused wear is going to shorten the usual lifespan.
I'd be sticking a new drivetrain on. change everything ...Chainring, cassette and chain
Maybe a good case for a bigger front ring as well to shift the load up the cassette where there is more chain wrap.
Christ almighty. Not surprised that’s slipping.
Do we really think the wear on this is that bad? Looking into the teeth there doesn’t seem to be a great deal of wear even if most of the surface finish has been taken off the sides.
Unfortunately the only spare cassettes I have at the minute are microspline so not going to be cheap to try a fresh one out. Definitely would make sense to go for a larger front ring when I do though as the hills round this way aren’t exactly epic.
@benpinnick may be on to something though as the wheels do get taken off when the bike gets stored. Is this usually permanent damage to the hub/ratchet/freehub or is it just a case of needing to take a bit more care when putting the wheel back into the frame?
If you're out of the saddle could it be frame flex or something?
I can never tell how worn a cassette is by looking tbh.
If it was the freehub at fault, I think it would be more likely in the lower gears as the 50t will put 5x the amount of torque through there as the 10t.
Blimey. I'd be installing a bigger chain ring too. Not much chain engagement in those smaller cogs and three of them look a bit haggard.
Frame flex could be part of it I guess. Not sure I can face swapping the frame out to try and fix it just yet though.
You either have thighs of Oak, or that's an E-bike. Either way, look at the shadowing on the rear faces of those smaller cog teeth. Where the chain is being pushed hard against them. Looks to me that the teeth are slightly flared, which is a sign that the cassette is borked. If you were able to use the larger cassette cogs (by using a bigger chain ring), the teeth would not wear so quickly, and there would be more engagement between the cogs and chain.
Also, that doesn't look like a 12 speed chain checker. Use something like a Park CC4.
I don't think frame flex is relevant. Just large force being placed on a few cog teeth.
Unless running a 10t oneup shark mini driver, I've never had a dtswiss freehub pull off the axle when off the bike without significant user intent. I guess if you hot swapped cassettes between wheels you could wear out the o-ring and reduce its efficacy but surely not from straight wheel out stuff.
However, the only time I've mashed any star ratchet teeth was due a loose rear axle under a fairly significant amount of torque. Rounded a few teeth and it would give up on enthusiastic pedalling.
Presumanly with a spotter, you could stand on the pedals in those smaller gears and watch if it's the chain jumping or the cassette turning..
The LTJC-001 is compatible with all derailleur chains. For 9 and 10-speed chains, replace chain at or just before the 0.75% readings. For 11 and 12-speed chain, replace at or just before the 0.5% reading. Check with manufacturer for specific replacement instructions.
Seems that you want to blame everything else other than what you're being told.
Even if you did have another issue the worn drive chain would make diagnosing harder. It's the most obvious cause and the simplest thing to 'fix'.
IMO you'd need some fairly drastic frame flex to cause skipping and would have other indicators like tyre rub on the stays. You've also clearly had the hub apart numerous times, would you have made the mistake of not fitting the end cap properly every time? Again I think you'd have other signs of this like the hub seeming slightly too wide when you went to put it into the frame. TBH I also am struggling to see how what Ben describes would occur (though he sees way more bikes than most us).
Do we really think the wear on this is that bad? Looking into the teeth there doesn’t seem to be a great deal of wear
Not on the bits that are left, but there’s a whole it of material gone. For me, it’s the shape gaps that’s tell tale. Look at the 24t cog in your first picture. Some of the gaps are symmetrical-ish and some are the shape of breaking waves. There are also some where the gaps are much wider than others. That’s very typical of heavy wear. The areas where the wear doesn’t look so bad are probably around the shift ramps that are profiled to handle the change of cog.
For 9 and 10-speed chains, replace chain at or just before the 0.75% readings. For 11 and 12-speed chain, replace at or just before the 0.5% reading
This is new news, I’ve had the numbers quoted for the 8/9 speed chains in mind and that anything less than 0.5 was fine.
Guess I’ll be off to buy some new bits then.
That cassette is gubbed. Particularly 12/14/16/18T
eBike by any chance?
Not an ebike.
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So fitted a new SLX cassette and XT chain to replace the GX parts that were in there. Even factoring in the cost of a new (steel) micro spine free-hub it worked out about £55 cheaper than going for the SRAM parts. I also took some of the grease off the face of the star ratchet parts as they had gone very quiet and I suspect there was a bit too much in there.
First ride out and something skipped once, making quite a racket down by the rear hub. So a lot better than things were previously where I’d loose count of how many times it had skipped despite taking it easy most of the time but not perfect. Can’t decide if it’s worth chasing things further or just leaving it there. Will see how it goes after a few more rides I guess
Did you adjust rear mech indexing to take into account the sram > shimano change set up? No mention of changing front ring so is that still the old one and is the chain length correct.
Gear indexing checked/tweaked and seemingly running fine. Shifting is generally sounding and feeling much nicer/smoother with the shimano cassette and chain on there.
Same chainring.
Chain length set up as per SRAM user manual instructions rather than just matching to old chain.
f that doesn’t work it all goes in the bin and I have to buy a new bike.
Seems reasonable.
