The marin is nice but it's 30% more expensive so it's not doable.
20% or 1/5th 😉
I bet if you rocked up to a shop in person, cash in hand you could get a hefty amount knocked off one.
for 10% more (99 quid) you can get one of these..
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Giant-Stance-27-5-Mountain-Bike-2017-Full-Suspension-MTB_97646.htm
or for 1079..
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Kona-Precept-120-Mountain-Bike-2016-Full-Suspension-MTB_82233.htm
I only paid £900 for the Bossnut.
Think I'm going to get the money back and keep an eye on the sales/classifieds.
I'm quite tempted to get a cross bike to be honest even the Bossnut is overkill for my riding 90% of the time, its only the one week a year I go to Scotland that I wanted something a bit more rowdy for.
The boggo Vitus Escarpe looks decent but there's only one left in my size, and I'm not convinced by the fork, plus it's an extra £100.
Could always get the Marin, or similar, on 0% finance over 12 months.
So, £900 cash leaves £300 to finance. That's £25/month over 12 months.
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If I was in for a bike around £900, i'd add more and go for the Marin. Great company, the bike is spec'd well & it's a solid and tested suspension platform, plus the geometry is nice. It reminds me of a modern Specialized Pitch, which as a fantastic bike at the time.
I have a medium frame Bossnut where the original rear tyre also rubs (just) against the seat tube when the rear shock is fully compressed. However, the original WTB BeeLine rear tyre is quite big for its size 2.2" and since that tyre isn't really capable to cope with the wet and slippery conditions we have here in Sweden, I swapped it to a Schwalbe Nobby Nic 27.5x2.25 and then I got a clearance of about 1/4" to the seat tube. It's not much but it probably won´t rub against the seat tube if the shock bottoms out.
I get the impression that you otherwise like the bike and that you want to keep it if possible and this might be a way to go. Probably you could get a "refund" for the BeeLine in order to buy another rear tyre. At least, there wasn't any problems for me to have my expenses for truing the front wheel covered by GoOutdoor.
Let me just also say that I fully agree that this is a flaw (probably in the design) and the bike should of course have the adequate clearance with the tyre it's delivered with but this might be a way to go if you, like me, really want to keep the bike.
I have also asked GoOutdoor to send me these "magical" bushings in order to increase clearance but I haven't got any response on that so far.
Guess I'm one of the lucky ones. I got the large frame although I'm only 5'10 but the medium just felt a bit small and it's an ideal excuse for not being able to manual worth a damn.
I've pinch-flatted tubes and burped a tubeless tyre into submission on the rear, landed in a sublimely ham-fisted fashion on many occasions, clattered through rock-gardens and flown like an eagle (I wish, maybe an asthmatic sparrow with a sore rotator cuff) before landing like a sack of cement and I've never even bottomed out the rear suspension.
The back end is a bit flexy (the bike not me!) and somehow I managed to bend a couple of the gears on the cassette, which I straightened out with a hammer and a bit of wood, apart from that its been a mostly trouble free bike and I'm still enjoying it enough to go be looking forward to going out in the wet and cold and dark tonight 🙂
So I've collected my third frame and the problem seems to be fixed although I'm not totally convinced. I've now been told that the problem was with my rear shock over compressing and not the replacement frame so they have replaced the shock. The new shock now "bottoms out" with about 10% of its travel left, even with all of the air let out. I'm quite new to mountain biking so I have no idea if this is expected but it seems to me they have fixed the problem by limiting the travel of the shock to stop the wheel hitting the frame.It looks like the wheel would still rub if the shock could use all of its travel. I would appreciate it if somebody could let me know if this seems right. I would be able to provide photos if this helps.
Thanks.
If you are not getting the correct amount of travel, then it's still not right and I would be asking for a refund.
It depends, is it a 200mm eye to eye shock? They come in 50/51mm and 57mm stroke versions with the same eye to eye length and the difference is a spacer internally to limit the stroke on the 50/51 version..
If a bikes designed for a 50mm stroke shock and a 57mm stroke version is fitted by mistake it'll probably cause some fouling somewhere, that extra 7mm stroke is multiplied x2 or more in actual wheel travel
It's not unknown for manufacturers to supply the wrong version I believe..
I have no idea what a Caliber runs though..
Cheers for the replies, I have no idea if it is 200mm eye to eye or how I could tell. The rear shock is a Rock Shox Monarch R, I've uploaded some images to show you where the shock "bottoms" out. Just to be clear the tyre is no longer an issue and is not interfering with the shock and It's the shock itself that is bottoming out. I don't know much about suspension so don't know if a shock is suppose to "bottom out" before using all of it's travel. The way the shop explained it to me is that the previous shock was over compressing and this new shock had a "buffer" to stop it from fully bottoming out.
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It should have the size printed on the he shock somewhere. Would be interested if theyve changed it , mine is 190x51, its ptinted on the stanchion (is it a stachion on the back?)
Edit - yours is the same, you can see it in the pic
The stroke is how much it compresses and the eye to eye is the distance between the bolt holes..
That's a 51mm stroke shock. If it's 51mm from the red band to the shock outer then you are getting full travel. Looks about right.
You'll get about 49mm of travel unless you absolutely hammer the shock. The last part of the 51mm has a rubber bottom out bumper that needs to be compressed to get 'full' travel, and youll only compress it if you propoerly whack the shock. Its really advisable to not do that though, the bumper will disintegrate over time. FWIW your pic looks about right for compressing the shock without properly bottoming it out.
I wouldn't personally expect a shock to go past that position. Looks about right to me.
Thanks all for your help I've just measured it and it seems to be using roughly 48mm of the shock which seems about right if there's a few mm for a bumper.
JBridges- Il check my shock tonight to check if it gives 100% or 90% compression
So does this mean that previous comments about the frames being 1:15 faulty are in fact wrong?(From memory caused by the rear shock mounts being welded to far forward). In fact it was the shock all along, or have I missed something?
HI Guys,I've only just been made aware of this feed:
The QC issue is a result of the front shock mount being welded 1 -1.5mm further forward (towards the head tube) than it should, we’ve had around 15 bikes returned from thousands sold. The issue has been rectified at the factory and anything from here on in will not be affected. The fixes I have are: 1.) I have a small number of replacement frames, but some of these were damaged in transit so I’m waiting for some more. 2.) I have offset bushes, these will move the rear shock back to the correct position and is an easy fix.
stores are aware of the issue and will be able to help you.
once again sorry for this, and as i've said it really is a small batch issue and the buzz is just that and will not stop you mid ride etc.
Best regards,
Mike
@buckster, I think there is a problem with some of the frames because I have seen some models on the shop floor that haven't been ridden with the same problem. The way it was explained to me is that my first frame was faulty. The replacement they gave me wasn't faulty and did improve the problem but it was still catching the frame. I think they then realised that the shock in my case was faulty and was over compressing. The new shock they have fitted has stopped the wheel hitting the frame although it still comes quite close so I'm going to keep an eye on it.
Sounds more to me that they have been fitting incorrect shocks.
Would be useful for someone still having the problem to let us know what stroke shock they have.
Mine is still knackered but the shock is the same size as jbridges
Yeah as prawny says it's the same shock I think mine genuinely was faulty.
This looks like the 2017 version of the calibre bossnut if you're planning on holding out prawny.
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Ooh. Gravel bike?
Yeah I think I'm going to hang on for the new one now. Getting a refund will mean more spending and it's just not feasible at the moment.
Like the new colour.
And the Gravel/CX bike. Hmmmm.
I checked mine and its also 190mm 51. Although mine uses all of the travel. i.e the rubber band is left at the end of the stanchion at full compression/bottoming out. Mine is the same rear shock that was on the faulty frame that i returned, so it was the frame rear shock mount that was welded slightly in the wrong place that was allowing the rear wheel to touch the frame on full compression.
Hi all,
I can confirm that [b]ALL[/b] the 19" Calibre Bossnuts are now being recalled. I purchased mine a couple of weeks ago (Lakeside branch) and actually had a separate wheel-related issue. After reading through this thread, I also discovered that my Bossnutt had exactly the same frame issue (even though it was the newer "upgraded" paintjob). Go Outdoors at Lakeside have been very helpful and one of their guys has actually driven down to me to pick the bike up/deliver it back (2 hour round trip) on 3 occasions now. The bike went back for the last time today and I was told that they had received an email from head-office confirming the recall. I am receiving a full refund. It only appears to be the 19's that are affected but it's ALL of them - not just some I'm told. My advice: get onto the store from which you purchased the bike and get yourself a refund. I am toying with the idea of sizing up to the large frame, but am also very tempted by the Boardman FS Pro which is massively discounted (if you use BC membership card).
@chrispianlee cheers for the update. Strange how yours is using the full travel of the shock and mine isn't. I'm worried that when I actually ride the bike then it will use a few more mm travel than what it does when its deflated. The rear tyre only has a few mm clearance at the moment so if the shock does use up slightly more travel then the tyre will probably carry on rubbing.
They look to still be selling them online....
I havent ridden mine yet as got a broken wrist. Hopefully it will be ok when I do...:o)
Just back from Inverness GO outdoors store where they gave me a replacement bike( I kept my rims as I had converted to tubeless). I has 2 faults with mine.
1 The rear shock had collapsed and even when fully pressurized it would only come out a half inch.
2 This highlighted that the rear wheel rubbed the frame when fully compressed. This was a surprise to the bike tech as he was only aware of the issue affecting 19" frames and mine is a 21".
The customer service I received was brilliant. I was informed they usually just take all your bike parts and put them on a new frame but since I traveled 2.5 hrs to get to the store they offered me a swap for a brand new bike.
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Downtube angle is slacker on larger bikes which makes stroke less progressive at the end and increases travel for a given stroke of shock. This might be what the issue is.
@fastfunkier just to confirm there is no recall we have still only had 12 bikes with this issue. it does appear that some issues are down to the stroke of the Monarch rear shock moving more than 51mm that they should, but the main problem as i've stated is that the front mount was welded slightly too far forward.
if you have any direct question please contact me mike.sanderson@gooutdoors.co.uk
cheers guys, we will get these issues fixed and none more than me are upset that this has happened - but were not the first and i'm sure not the last bike company to face an issue
Cheers,
Mike
It's not the inevitable problems that you face, but how you go about sorting them out thats either the making or breaking of you
@ulysee yes totally understand and its causing me no end of heartache reading these posts - that's why i've given you my direct email so i can personally get them fixed as it appears you've been getting varied aftercare.
as i say i'm gutted that you've had these issues and i will do my best to fix them for you
Cheers,
Mike
I have just picked up my Bossnut with replacement frame from the Cardiff store and have to say that the service has been excellent. Ok, there was a little confusion initially wrt pumping up the shock to overcome the bottoming out but once over that (helped by this thread and the MBR letters) The service has been great. A replacement frame was sent to the store but unfortunately it had a paint chip on the head tube. There was quite a delay on another frame but Chris who was dealing with it suggested that he repaint the chip as a possible alternative. I have to say that he did a great job and he went over and above anything I expected. I accepted the unique paint job. It is the Fluor yellow frame which I think looks better. The rear wheel is pretty close when the shock is fully compressed but not touching. My shock is a 51mm and it also has ~2mm of bumper travel at the end travel with ~49mm of free travel.
Ps the beeline tyre is a swine to get off the rim (so much so that I failed to get the tyre off after a puncture out in the trail). The WTB rim has 2channels inside the rim which lock the tyre in place which means a great seal but you can't get a tyre lever in there!
I have gone for a refund, the new frame was doing the exact same thing or tyre touching frame when shock deflated. The store said they would put the bike on sale as ex demo! Just don't know what to say.. Was another poor mug in shop picking faulty version up when I returned mine, GO Outdoors seem to have no real sense of the fact that this issue could be v dangerous and cause an injury..
Hi All,
Found this posting due to noticing my tire touching the frame when air out of shock! Mine is a Large frame and still has the problem like the Medium frame. With my weight on the bike the wheel locks out! I put the Gorilla guard on, this helps with some less binding if the inevitable happens on a ride.
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Going to contact the supplier.
Welcome to the club 🙁
Still waiting and thinking here 6 months on.
Since my last post 2 weeks ago, I contacted Mike Sanderson via email to say, I have the same issue, and copied him in on my photos, I had a very quick response from him, he said to let him know when I was taking my bike into Go-Outdoors, so that he could give them the heads up I was bringing my bike in.
Mike explained that there are two options for a fix, 1) A tyre that measures lower on the profile, and 2)the new offset boss as discussed on here. As it turned out taking the bike would have been difficult for me due to time constraints, I mentioned this to Mike, so he sent the boss to me for me to fit myself.
Today I had time to fit the offset boss, you can see the offset quite clearly just looking at it, once it was installed there is around a 2mm clearance from the frame, when all the air is out of the shock, not easy to see in the picture attached, but it is there.(Still have Gorilla guard on)
I have peace of mind now, knowing there is less chance of the tyre binding if the shock did ever give up, my rides are not so full on with big air, so there should not be an issue for me, I did buy the bike for trail riding as it was designed for, but happily do all the runs in the FOD.
Having used Cube hard tails before going full sus, this Bossnut, has made it a much more comfortable ride and a lot faster for me, and at a very low price compared to the other brands, I enjoy it and don't see a need for anything else, that is until I wear it out.
So thanks Mike for your speedy support, makes a nice change having someone actually care about the customer for once.
P.S If you don't have the correct tools, I don't recommend you changing out the offset boss yourselves, as they need to be pressed out and back in with 100% alignment.
Went out on the Bossnut again at the weekend, fantastic bike to ride.
But. I've just noticed that the shock on the current one (no 3) is sat in the sag markers with the shock pumped up. I'm losing heart now, combined with the fact that my dropper is also giving me grief I'm tempted to send the lot back and get something else.
Hi all, I had the same problem with my bossnut after reading these posts i thought instead of messing around ill just email mike direct. I got a response the next morning. He told me that it was an issue with the beeline tyre being to tall. Sent me out a new one within 24hrs, I got it fitted on the bike and problem solved. From first email on Sunday to being fixed was less that 72hrs. Cant knock that for customer service. Not only that the bike is amazing for the price as well. Back out there this weekend to smash the trails with confidence in my bike! p.s the tyre is now a 2.25 nobby nic
Lol. I wouldnt be accepting that explanation given all the other posts in this thread.
If i was an owner i would have my money back. Unfit for purpose.
Unfit for purpose?.....what purpose would that be then? There was a Bossnutt going great guns at Antur yesterday embarrassing many so called boutique brands....even looked good too!
Have you read the thread?
Yeah, because none of the major players have ever had any QC issues have they cough (Evil) cough.....
