Just got front brake back from lbs after New seals and pistons and a bleed just fitted to bike and it feels very spongy not able to lock wheel up.
could it be that as it was bled with no pads in and pistons fully in that it will now need a top up. to be honest pistons aren't out too much but only thing I can think of
only took them in as a piston was sticking on new bike, rotor and brake haven't been contaminated either
any ideas thanks
This idea of "topping up" brakes is odd. The capacity of the reservoir is designed to work with full to totally worn pads.
If it feels spongy, they're either leaking, or need bleeding properly.
At a push, it could be that the caliper is aligned badly and is twisting when applied.
Right not sure as never done it, will take them back after weekend, shouldn't be leaking as I specifically asked for full seals doing along with pistons to make sure it was right :'(
Still have air in them...get them properly bled. As a temporary fix, clamp lever to bar and leave overnight...any air that can move will make its way to lever...remove top cap and top up reservoir.
It will fix it short term but until all air is gone it wont be fixed. Reverse bleed is a good way of shifting the air...caliper up to lever - air goes up easier than down so this way can shift air quicker and ive found better.
rotor and brake haven't been contaminated either
Maybe not by you!!!
Rotor and pads were fine before I took brake in and I didn't take rotor or pads to shop mate
I always bleed mine with just a pair of the backing plates for the pads in the callipers. I have the pistons fully pushed out, then once finished lever them out gain with screw driver so I can then set the bite point to rock solid or further into the lever stroke. So yes, top them up with pistons out a little more and the bite point screw out fully if using tech levers.
That's not topping up, that's over filling. The brakes will reset themselves once the pads have worn sufficiently.
My hopes occasionally go spongy for no apparent reason. To remedy this I have to 'align the pads'. There is a proper term for it but I can't remember it right now.
Basically, have a look at your pads and how far they are off the disc. Use a screwdriver or similar to apply force to the piston/pad that is closest to the disc. Apply pressure to the lever. This will allow the pad/piston that is further from the disc to move independently. It will stay there and you will have a solid lever again.
If you have a look on YouTube there is a video put up by hope that describes this. 'Bleeding tech lever' but I find its relevant.
Firestarter - fair enough!! Ive just had pads come back contaminated from the LBS before! I bleed my own now, so its my own fault when I spray them with GT85, like last week 😳
Nice work Dan 😉
Pads are fully central pistons even and hitting disc even so **** knows will nip to shop on Tuesday after nights to see what score is thanks
A quick bodge that fettled my hope tech m4. I'm not sure how it happened, I think I'd pushed the pads back with the calliper above the height of the lever and it was very spongy with a long throw on the lever. For some reason pushing the pistons out slightly with the lever when the wheel was out seemed to fettle it. I'm not sure why, but it's worked to the point I haven't tried to rebleed the brake as I've forgot about it 😳 😆