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I've finally got round to fitting discs to my old Specialized Epic (Hayes Stroker). All went fine, brakes excellent and all - but the front brake is constantly binding... It makes riding uphill quite hard work, so any clues about how to stop this?
I've re-seated the pads at least 10 times, bled them about 5 times, tried to force the pads apart with a chisel (carefully!), so any other thoughts? Both pistons appear to move, but it's difficult to tell if it's the same on both sides...
reposition the calipers - sounds like you haven't got them centred properly/ Losen the bolts, pull the lever, tighten bolts
I use one of these and never have a problem
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=35769
Guide to the whole bleeding procedure
Based on my experience, set of Hayes 9s, sticky pistons on can be caused by a few things
Dirt trapped between caliper and piston
Temporary fix - pump the piston out as far as you dare and clean/lube with a cotton bud and brake fluid/silicon spray/fork juice/ etc. Refit & reset brakes
Hardened seals on the piston
Temporary fix - pump the piston out as far as you dare and clean/lube with a cotton bud and brake fluid/silicon spray/fork juice/ etc. Refit & reset brakes
Permanent fix – strip clean fit caliper rebuild kit.
Caliper Corrosion
Temporary fix - strip clean then very very fine wet and dry to remove the corrosion rebuild the brakes but expect the exposed aluminum alloy to corrode really fast
If all of the above fail then new brakes
Top Tips
Before you start;
Read the manual
Watch useful videos on U-Tube or Manufacturers (Hayes) website
Have the right tools/bleed kit/fluids/cleaning materials, etc
And make sure you have plenty of; Penitence, Time, Space, Light and in my case Coffee
Let a tiny bit of fluid out - whilst pushing back on both pistons with some sort of wedge (ring spanner?), open the bleed nipple a TINY bit to let some fluid weep out.
That used to work with my NINE's.
As above but instead of letting fluid escape from the calliper remove the lever bleed port plug to do this, with the plug pointing directly upwards. This will allow you to get the pistons pushed as far back as they should go.
If the system has been bled previously with the pistons not fully pushed back into their housings, which happens, then come pad change time you will not be able to push them back fully to accommodate the new pads.
Good luck.
Just tried all these things, apart from a rebuild...
Inside piston could be slightly bent so I may have to either live with it or bite the bullet and take it to bits!
I've had the brake levers failing to return because of dirt getting into the plunger port; I'm afraid I just skooshed in GT85 and problem went away. I've got sticky pistons moving again by restraining one side with the jaws of an open-ended spanner and pumping the piston out a bit on the other side.
I have to say I never bled mine in 4 years and they're still going strong.
Does anyone know if you can replace the bushes in the brake lever pivot? Mine are quite wobbley.