[Closed] best lightweight long forked hardtail

Mmm Bop frames are supposed to be sub-4lb, I think.

on-one carbon 456?

santa cruz chameleon?

Could lose a lot of weight without changing the frame though.

How much did your 456 build weigh?

Cove handjob with 140mm floats will save you around 2lbs - I love mine, climbing is slightly compromised but the bike is brilliant going down.

The mmmbop climbs really well and is a right laugh on the decents. The only problem I found with mine was it's rather barge like handling in tighter singletrack. Might have just been a lack of skill though. I need to get round to selling it if you're over 6'2"?

rudedog-my on-one 456 weighed in at 30lb so decided to go to a kona kula easton whippet but regret the lack of travel so it has to go.

bol what size is your frame and is it lime?

Mine's big and blue - 20ins. Good if you're over 6ft2, gate otherwise.

I just went from a 34lb pike forked beast of a hardtail to Whyte 19 trail with 120mm reba forks. I can pretty much ride the same stuff but I'm way faster on the climbs and only a little slower on the descents. The usual trade off of losing the bombproof feeling to gain some climbing legs, It's what I set out to do and I'm more than happy with the Whyte. I'd like a better fork than the reba which gets a bit squiggly and feels out of it'd depths at times, but I'm still tweaking the set up so who knows?

Hummer? I've seen 'burly' builds (revs mavic sx) still sub 25lb. Carbon 456 will probably be about the same. Cham might save a couple of pounds. Depends how much cash you want to spend really

456 and riding uphill = u turn forks. I had (have - must get around to selling it) a ti456 frame and whilst I loved long travel downhill it was so much better a bike for everything else in my opinion at the shorter end of the travel. Once I stopped thinking of it as a 5.5inch hardtail that you wound down for the climbs and started thinking of it as a 4 (well 4 and a bit - 110mm) inch travel hardtail that you wound out for the downs it liked the bike considerably more.

A ti456 if you can get hold of one or a carbon 456 built with a RS Rev fork and not made over burly elsewhere would be great I think.

Why go for cheap frames? STW is going too far towards cheap-stuff.

Whyte is the only answer for you OP. Time to start putting quality hardtails back on the STW menu me thinks.

I think my Ti456 with Magura Thors fits the bill.

Just need to rebuild it after getting it repaired. Feel like I'm missing summer!
Got a Sanderson going spare still..

I've stuck 110-140mm Revs on my Sanderson Life. Ride mostly at 120mm, but have 140 when needed.
With longer forks, the geometry is similar to a Soul and it's plenty tough enough for my 13+stone around the Lakes.
Light(ish) too

+1 for 456ti and Magura Thors

Seems just the right length/balance on mine too.

My P7 comes up just over 11kg, its a SS but thats with heavyish rims and atlas crank arms.

Can shave a lot of weight off with the finsihing kit. Some light rims and a set of 2010 revelations will knock a fair bit of weight off.

Whyte 19. Flippin' amazing...

I just don't 'get' why people bang on about cheap nasty hardtails soo much.

Would you ride around on low-end full suss frame?

Pipedream Sirius?

hora - Member
I just don't 'get' why people bang on about cheap nasty hardtails soo much.
Would you ride around on low-end full suss frame?

****, I've found myself agreeing with Hora... 😉

Hora, whats high end these days. A significant number of frames are made in asia, notably Taiwan, were one could argue that the quality of the frames exceeds that of many bespoke 'high end' manufaturers (custom built frames generally excluded).

The beauty of buying any frame only option is that you can spec it as you please with the high end components and finishing kit which really make the difference to both performance and exclusivity.

Granted there will be exceptions, but the same can be said of some percieved high end frames, which look awful and ride like shopping bikes.

Would you ride around on low-end full suss frame?

If it rode well, then obviously, yes.

[i]I just don't 'get' why people bang on about cheap [s]nasty[/s] hardtails soo much. [/i]

Some of those frames aren't all that bad.

Interesting comment about adjustable travel forks. When you have them you tend to use them and think they are good, but going back to normal forks has been ace... just ride. Having the correct tool for the job is better than bodgeing and ruining what I liked in the first place. Too long a fork ruins the handling imho. I'm begining to think the same about lockouts, nothing but a crutch for a poorly performing damper.

Pipedream sirius....where are they then, bit like the Loch Ness Monster...rumoured to exist but who has actually seen one, especially the new Ti version

hora - Member
Why go for cheap frames? STW is going too far towards cheap-stuff.

Whyte is the only answer for you OP. Time to start putting quality hardtails back on the STW menu me thinks.

I'd correct you and call then 'well priced' frames as opposed to boutique frames from across the pond that are way overpriced. really pleased with my Scandal for a 'cheap' frame - and given the battering my Fuel EX has received around here I won't be too pissed off when it gets the inevitable dents and scratches

I just don't 'get' why people bang on about cheap nasty hardtails soo much.

Hang on a moment, don't you, or didn't you, ride a 456?

Besides, the geometry is far more important than the material used or the label on the downtube to be fair.

As this will be a second bike price will be a factor to an extent so in that respect it looks like the mmm bop would be ideal. Yes or No?

Every thread in which somebody expresses an interest in a trail ht always attracts the same "456 cos they're good value" response and it's predictable and tiresome.

I don't doubt that they're good frames or that they're cheap for what they are but most posters on here have been around long enough to know that. If they're choosing between a few other frames and haven't mentioned a 456 it's probably because they don't want one for whatever reason.

In a few cases it sounds like a bit of inverted snobbery, "you want to spend how much on a frame? Do you know nothing? God, you could save £200 and get an in-one which is nearly as good. Thought everyone knew that..."

(prepares for incoming)

Already had an on-one and found the finished build too heavy so sold it on but this new mm bop seems lighter and not overly expensive at 275.00

Hang on a moment, don't you, or didn't you, ride a 456?

In a cupboard. Its not a bad frame- you think its better due to the price. If it was just three times the price you'd think 'gawd this is heavy etc etc etc'.

Previous Santa Cruz Chameleon blows it into the weeds though IMO. When a frame flatters your riding you know its a good set of tubes/design etc?

I don't get why people put such nice components on low end frames like the steel 456.

Agree but if you didnt singlespeed a 456 and put on standard kit it'd be even heavier?

[i]I don't get why people put such nice components on low end frames like the steel 456. [/i]

I don't understand why people are prepared to pay so much for a 'brand', if its no better. Just 'cos the frame is value, doesn't mean its a cheap bike!

And I guess based on the price of a 'custom' Ti frame you'd all consider this low-rent too?

[IMG] [/IMG]

Rather than becoming embroiled in the merits of different brands I'll return to the OP.

Why a lightweight long travel hardtail? I see that as a contradiction in terms? I have a cove stiffee. I love it because it is a hooligan bike but I accept it'll never be a brilliant climber.

Interested in peoples thoughts? Or are travel adjust forks the only solution?

I don't think there is a perfect lightweight hardtail that flies uphill and goes even faster down. There has to be a compromise somewhere, whether it be weight, strength, climbing ability, or downhill ability.

Personally, I'd have a chameleon ..

scrap that, evil sovereign!

I'm contemplating a similar build. Build for weight with a Lynskey Ridgeline LT, or build for strength/riotous-ness with an Evil Soverign. Either way, I suspect it'll end up being a good bike!

[i]Why a lightweight long travel hardtail? I see that as a contradiction in terms?[/i]

Depends on your definition of lightweight really. but lighter bikes are mostly always easier to climb or maneuver. Sub 25lb they start to get a bit twangy, but they're no means unridable. As long as the front's stiff, and the wheels are strong, job's a good 'un.

I've not had a 456, but I have had an mmmbop and yes, it is light, yes, it climbs really well and descends better. No, it isn't the best handling bike through the twisties. At £275 it's good value, nicely finished and a bit distinctive. In answer to the OP, I'd give one a try. If you fall in love with it and want a flasher version, there is always the ti.

I've just taken apart my lightest hardtail which was just over 22lbs. It rode better than I was expecting (didn't get pinged about all that much) but I have more fun on the other bikes so there was just no need for it. My current hardtails are a 25lb 80mm travel Zion (actually a tad heavier than my Epic) and my Soul, which is just shy of 29lbs at the moment:
[img] [/img]

The Soul can (and has) been built up a fair bit lighter without make it any less fun so that's my next project as the other bikes are pretty sorted now. I doubt it'll get under 26-27lbs though.