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[Closed] Bang for buck upgrades

 Pyro
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[#11263120]

What gives better bang for your buck on a not-totally-entry-level bike, a better fork or a better set of wheels?

Nice-ish steel framed hardtail (NS Eccentric Cromo), and I've gradually upgraded a few bits as I went, mainly a better crankset to replace the PowerSpline version it came with and a more powerful set of brakes (Guides rather than Levels) since, well, a mate was selling them off and I liked the look of 'em.

The next bit is likely to be a bit more spend, and it's then a bit of a debate as to what's what:
I know how much improvement in feel a new wheelset can make, so one route would be a set of something like Hunt Trail Wide or Stans Flow/Flow S1 wheels - going for around 30mm wide rims. They'd likely be a bit lighter than the stock NS/Octane One setup, and I've already had to strip, clean and re-grease the pawls on the current setup because they were binding and creaking, so it would make sense.
The other - likely a bit pricier again - option would be a new fork. I'll be honest and say the stock Recon is a good bit better than I was expecting, feels pretty good and definitely doesn't feel like it's holding me back, but it's not an upgradable or particularly tunable version. I'd quite like a Manitou Mattoc but they're a bit like rocking horse poo at the moment. The other not-stupid-money option would be a Fox Rhythm - 140mm travel, for what it's worth.

Any thoughts or differing opinions?


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:05 pm
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2.5" DHF Minion Super tacky Maxxis front tyre for a dry Alps trip.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:08 pm
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Wheels will make a difference to how the bike feels for sure.

As would an upgraded fork.

I'd probably say upgrade the wheels and give the fork a service, motion control RS forks are ridiculously simple to strip down and replace seals, but they do still benefit from an oil change and cleaning out the lowers every few hundred miles.

Hunt Wheels IIRC use novatech hubs, so might actually be the same as the octane one you already have, just with more marketing! If you're thinking of spending Hunt money I'd look at Hope Pro4 hubs, or DT 350. Hope are shut due to COVID and DT are a PITA to find in the spec you want (bargain if you want 28h 11s non-boost hubs, rocking horse poo if you want 32h boost microspline at a sensible price). You also have to accept DT's 18t ratchet because they rely on springs rather than the helical do-dahhs of Chris King, shimano etc (or pawls like everyone else).

Option C would be learn to build your own wheels, it's pretty straightforward and when a rim upgrade only costs you £50 you can be less fussy about hubs, either buying nice ones that will outlast several rims, or cheap ones because replacing the whole hub is only ~90minutes work.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:15 pm
 Pyro
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2.5″ DHF Minion Super tacky Maxxis front tyre for a dry Alps trip.

I should probably have put that in riding context, shouldn't I? 😉

I have no current intention of riding out in the Alps, and hate slow, draggy tyres, so that one's a 'no' I'm afraid. If I were out in the Alps in summer I'd more likely to be there for a kayaking trip than biking.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:16 pm
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Got a dropper post? For me (who a lot of my riding is comprised of winches out the valley and then drops back into it rather than long flat rides), the dropper post has made the biggest change to my riding.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:17 pm
 Pyro
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Got a dropper post?

Yeah, came with an X-Fusion Manic as standard, works well enough for me!


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:21 pm
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If you've already got a dropper (that was going to be my first suggestion) my next move would definitely be lighter wheels. Lighter hubs & rims will improve the suspension functionality a bit as there will be less unsprung weight to shift on each impact, but lighter rims will make a more noticeable difference to the feel as they'll accelerate quicker and be less of a drag going up hills.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:33 pm
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I recently changed from a pair of 32mm revelations with motion control to a pair of 35mm pikes with charger damper and I was very surprised how large the difference was. The damping is much better but the big surprise was how much stiffer the 35mm forks are, much better.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:34 pm
 hugo
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Upgrading actual tyres often gives a great bang for buck option ahead of the wheels.

Then I'd go fork (although I've also been relatively pleased with a recon before).

Then dropper.

Although, what my actual advice would be is that as long as the current kit is fine, which it seems, is to do nothing....

Bank the cash, add to the pile, run the current kit into the ground and either upgrade at that point or even better buy a whole better bike!

I'd rather have a whole much better bike in 12-24 months, and have fun on what I have, than incremental change in the meantime.

For me, Clive, anyway!


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:35 pm
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Wider rims allowing wider tyres and/or lower pressures would be more significant than lighter ones IMO. Cheaper via a rebuild obvs.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:36 pm
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Decent wheels made the biggest difference to me.

Properly-built, strong, light wheels with decent tyres changed the whole feel of the bike for me.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:37 pm
 RicB
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Can you upgrade the damper in the fork to a Charger2?

My upgrade philosophy is frame>>fork>>wheels

Anything else is pointless unless it’s broken, uncomfortable or you’re a weight weeny/colour tart

Also- assume you’re running tubeless?


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:43 pm
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Tyres.

I actually went from Nobby Nics to slower Maxxis Minion DHF DHR II. Why, the Nobbies used to lose grip on adverse camber and just weren't predictable - the Minions are far more confidence inspiring, and I'm far quicker on them. You soon get used to the general roll being slower - e.g. flat stuff or paved surfaces.

That was a great upgrade for me. The tread pattern on the Nobby Nic's allows the tyre to slide out too much. They do roll well though. Might be worth asking here based upon your riding, what you currently have, and like.

Lighter rims are another option as has been said.

Other things like decent grips, saddle and cables make a difference to how the bike feels, and shifting will be spot on with cable changes when shifting isn't as good as you'd like.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:44 pm
 Pyro
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Option C would be learn to build your own wheels, it’s pretty straightforward and when a rim upgrade only costs you £50 you can be less fussy about hubs, either buying nice ones that will outlast several rims, or cheap ones because replacing the whole hub is only ~90minutes work.

Cheers TINAS, that's a really interesting thought - while I can do most maintenance on a bike, wheel building is not something I'd ever thought of.

I’d rather have a whole much better bike in 12-24 months

Hmmm, I get what you mean, but not the way I tend to do things. My bikes run on about a 5-year rotation - sometimes way more than that - and I tend to incrementally upgrade to a point where I'm happy then just run maintenance from there. I also usually build bikes myself from parts, only bought the Eccentric whole because I didn't have any modern standard bits (Boost wheels, 1x etc) to stick on a frame if I bought one!


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:49 pm
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Cheers TINAS, that’s a really interesting thought – while I can do most maintenance on a bike, wheel building is not something I’d ever thought of.

DT rims are generally cheap from bike-discount.de, DT spokes are cheapest from rose if you can find something to make the postage worthwhile. You can then at least try out a wider/lighter rim on the existing hub if you can solve the creaking. It's the weight of the rim that makes most of the difference to how it feels anyway.

Sheldon Brown has a good guide on how to build them, although different builder/guides do it in a different order depending on whether they want the pushing/pulling spokes on the inside/outside.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 12:58 pm
 Pyro
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Tyres.
Lighter rims are another option as has been said.
Other things like decent grips, saddle and cables make a difference to how the bike feels, and shifting will be spot on with cable changes when shifting isn’t as good as you’d like.

Cheers - got most of that covered already!
Tyres: Perfectly happy with the current setup (Trail Boss front, Ardent rear). Did have a Light/Fast casing Trail Boss on the rear but kept putting holes in it, back on a hardtail for the first time in a long time and riding like a spanner will do that. Swapped to an Exo casing 2.4 Ardent and very happy with the way it goes. Like I said, wouldn't touch a Minion for love nor money, can't stand the dragginess. Had Minion/High Roller combo on a bike I was loaned a while back and just hated how energy-sapping they were.
Contact points: Were swapped for preference ones right from purchase, bars and stem have also been swapped to tweak ride position - do need to drop some spacers and trim my steerer, but that's minor works.
Shifting: Just been done and is running great - switched the shifter from an integrated clamp to a Matchmaker version and recabled when I fitted the Guides.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 1:01 pm
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A skills weekend and get fitter.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 1:29 pm
 Pyro
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A skills weekend and get fitter.

Was that an 'I only read the title' reply, Matt? 😉

Skills weekend: Had a full day 1:1 back in October with Rich at Cyclewise Whinlatter, very happy with it and very much worth the money.
Get fitter: I've lost over a stone over the past couple of months, I'm riding longer and more often than I have in a good while, and I've just run a 5km PB of 24:05 - not earth-shatteringly fast, I appreciate, but 2:30 quicker than my previous PB which was set a decade ago...

A facetious answer from me perhaps, Matt, but bear in mind you have no idea how fit or skilled I am.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 1:48 pm
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It depends how you are riding

30 mile days mile munching- wheels

10 mile days smashing the jumps- fork

Somewhere in the middle - both will make a difference.

I had a motion control coil sprung rockshock for years. On a 25m peaks loop there was probably 30 seconds where I noticed the marazocchi on my other bike were better. On an uplift day or at warncliff I would notice the difference everywhere.

I’ve never regretted upgrading wheels or forks 😀


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 1:58 pm
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Fork


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 2:19 pm
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Get the stock wheelset on the scales without tyres, rotors or cassette and report back.

But it'll probably be the wheels, unless you ride a fair bit of rugged terrain - then it'll probably be the fork.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 2:23 pm
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Was that an ‘I only read the title’ reply, Matt?

Not at all.

I read all your ideas for shiny new things. I often spend too long considering the same for myself.

What I know personally is that if I'm fitter, ride more and have some input into my skilz, it's worth far more than a shiny new part.

It was no judgement on your skills or fitness - I'm sure those world cup riders all spend thier time getting fitter and being coached daily for a damn good reason.

Best bang for buck kit imo is tyres and brake pads.

But then I've never really got the 'upgrade' thing.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 2:33 pm
 Pyro
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It depends how you are riding:
30 mile days mile munching - wheels
10 mile days smashing the jumps - fork

More likely the former. As per the Skills Survey thread, I'm crap at jumps but have got to a level of contentment via a coaching day. The former matters more to me.

What I know personally is that if I’m fitter, ride more and have some input into my skilz, it’s worth far more than a shiny new part.

Don't disagree, and as I said, I've been doing that as well, especially the 'fitness' part. But, y'know, sometime I like to buy nice shiny things as well 🙂


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 2:47 pm
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skills day. upgrade yourself.

you dont need new stuff unless its broken or holds you back.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 2:55 pm
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You say you changed contact points but don't mention if you're running flat pedals.....


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 2:58 pm
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Proper fork service.
Always tempting to just buy a new fork but they’ll need serviced soon enough as well.
Boring answer is put it away for your next new bike, but frankly that’s where the biggest upgrade will come.
Can’t see huge gains above what you’ve already done.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 3:00 pm
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Yeah get a skills day, you ****less consumerist sucker.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 3:00 pm
 Pyro
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You say you changed contact points but don’t mention if you’re running flat pedals...

Running flats for the first time in a long time - Crank Bros Stamps, and like them. Working on that as part of the skills everyone on here apparently thinks I'm lacking, since I rode clips for the best part of 30 years. It's taking some work, but I'm getting there and my shins no longer look like someone took a meat tenderiser to them.

you dont need new stuff unless its broken or holds you back.

I didn't say I needed anything. But sometimes I like to buy things, because I have the money available and it pleases me to do so.

you ****less consumerist sucker.

Hey! I resemble that assertion... 😉


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 3:10 pm
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Go see Jedi, either one of the public days or just yourself or with some mates.
He got me to fly somehow 😳😂


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 3:35 pm
 Pyro
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Go see Jedi, either one of the public days or just yourself or with some mates.

I've read all the reports about Jedi and I'm sure he's brilliant, but jumps aren't something I actively want to progress on at the moment. I've watched enough Friday Fails videos to know what happens when you start trying to ride doubles...

Aside from that, he's also a rather long way South from here.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 3:38 pm
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I’ve watched enough Friday Fails videos to know what happens when you start trying to ride doubles…

You and me both.


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 3:47 pm
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Damper upgrade and a set of tyres

For minimal cash.

If your a bit burly I'd change the fork before the wheels

For a bit more cash


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 4:10 pm
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Hope are shut due to COVID

Not according to their website TINAS - although it's possible that's out of date 😉


 
Posted : 23/06/2020 6:08 pm