I have changed the push rod and bushings in my avid elixir levers to stop the wobbly lever syndrome which as worked and also give the brakes a bleed and made sure the calipers are not sticking but my levers are now too far out when i pull the brakes even with them wound all the way in. i like the levers to be close to my middle finger when pulled the brakes to maintain a relaxed grip. There seems to be very little movement when the lever is pulled.
Any advice welcome, should i try leting some fluid out.
I have bled avid elixirs many times before and never had a problem.
it's a "feature".
Its never done it before and I own 2 sets. Going to try the bleed again.
I think that you are suffering the same problem as me.
When you wind the reach adjuster in, does the lever stay in the correct position for a very short amount of time and then just be 'ignored' so the levers are at full reach?
I've had a similar problem from putting too much fluid in when bleeding. In my experience just letting fluid out of the lever bleed port does the trick. Do small amounts at a time not taking the screw all the way out to reduce air bubbles drawn in.
If you have had them apart to change parts, then check the adjuster and the threaded rod. I can't quite remember what I had to do with mine, but essentially the threaded rod has been screwed too far in before the adjuster was tightened. Or vise versa.
Have a look at the picture below and compare the position of the lever pivot pin in the slot to your brakes. Should give you an idea of what is going on.
[img] 
[/img]
I want see through brakes.....
DrP
right just done a 'text book' bleed and the rear brake is still the same. it seems as though the bite point is to close. if i had bite point adustment i would just wind the bite point off. the pads dont seem to be retracting quite enough after the the brake as been pulled(though there is no drag).the lever puls back to the bar when ive pushed the calipers back and refitted the pads, but after a pull pulls to set to the rotor the brake feels to pumped up again, but as i say not dragging on the rotor.
Avids you say.....
I take it when you said text book bleed, you ment you removed pads and replaced them with the bleed block fitted thick end in. Just checking, it sounds like too much fluid in system.
Have you tried centering caliper as well?
floppy lever, i got this. anywhere less than £20 per lever in stock? seems awful expensive like. some standard bushes maybe? don't need the cylinder part yet.
I take it when you said text book bleed, you ment you removed pads and replaced them with the bleed block fitted thick end in. Just checking, it sounds like too much fluid in system.
+1
@smiff [url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Avid-Lever-Pushrod-Coupling-Kit-Elixir-1-pc-hydraulic-brake-lever-spare-/321040167805?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item4abf7c337d ]these[/url]
What torsoinalake says.
Check the adjuster is sitting on the right bit of the rod. I had the same thing when I rebuilt mine after trying a DIY fix on the floppy syndrome. The screw that goes through the adjuster and the slot in the rod needs to go through the slot at the bottom, not half way along the slot or near the top. If that makes sense...
Try rebuilding that bit again. The Avid instructions online are better at explaining it perhaps...
sorry did you link to wrong item?
kit for about same price here includes those parts and the others:
http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/k615/a77668/lever-internals-service-kit-elixir-cr-r-5.html?mfid=3
it's just the bushes i need i think, maybe we're talking different sort of floppy. either way your link looks worse value!
if you really want just that it should be much cheaper e.g.
http://www.bikegoo.co.uk/product.php/977/0
anyone mind measuring the bushes please? with 4 to do don't fancy spending £80 on just this.
edit: found them!
http://www.bikegoo.co.uk/product.php/984/avid_lever_pivot_bushing__elixir_r__cr_
still bit overpriced but way better 🙂
@kevinpp
this sounds like it could be the fix (hopefully).
@smiff
If it's like mine you will need the pushrod bit too, like on argoose's link.
If you can be bothered to dismantle them every few months and clean / lube your lever and bits I reckon they would last a lot longer.
yep you need the push rods and they are not cheap! i've just had to by four.
I tend to give them a good squirt of silicon lube after a wet ride.
Plus mechs and stanchions.
Have thought that when mine wear to dip the ends intwo part epoxy adhesive. To take up any play, seems good on paper.
nope never taken it apart. only put some lube in a few times when they get squeaky. had them 4 years, so wear and flop. i guess the rubber will fail at some point but i'm cheap.
do you have to replace the pushrod or is it just if that's worn? only thing wrong afaik with mine is they flap up and down a lot now (i mean perpendicular to the lever's travel). action is ok.
With mine it was the pushrod that appeared most worn.
I put a small bit of cling film over the end to take up the slack. Temporary but has worked for now. I'm cheap too...! 😀
ah ok different kinds of wobble i think. i'll take mine apart some time and have a look. not something i like messing with 'cos obvious bad result of fail.
nice how almost every bit seems to be available for elixirs 🙂
now tried: 2 full bleeds
centering the pads on the rotor several times
rebuilding the lever again
all done to the mannual.
and as a last resort tried letting some fluid out the caliper by loosening the bleed screw and squeezing the lever.
still the same! any more ideas?