Thank you. 🙂
Anyone know if I can get a works headset to fit my Spesh Enduro? It's the fully integrated type I think with no press in cups...
(checked with that funky app thing):
What is the app thing?
Anyone know if I can get a works headset to fit my Spesh Enduro? It's the fully integrated type I think with no press in cups...
I don't think so.
The app i used is called Bubble Level, rest of against your fork leg and it'll show you the head angle.
I think you can get cups that let you fit normal headsets into fully integrated head tubes, fairly sure I have some in my spares box but I'd imagine they are few and far between and may limit your angle headset choice.
Works might machine you a custom one, certainly shouldn't be too difficult to design one, in fact I could maybe have a bash at it in my lunch tomorrow.
The app i used is called Bubble Level, rest of against your fork leg and it'll show you the head angle.
Just added that to phone my current head angle is 66.5
When you fitted your angle sets did you compensate for the drop the bar height by adding spacers?
I have rockshox pike which are 518 axle to crown so changing the angle by 1 degree by my maths would equal a 10mm drop in bar height.
I've got one fitted on my Chromag Wide Angle.
Using 160mm Pikes, the front wheel seems a very long way from the bars.
Might go back to a conventional headset, as I fear the front end doesn't have enough load on it, and could wash out easier.
Interested in other people who might have felt the same way.
you may have issues if you don't change the way you ride. If you just sit in the middle then you're opening yourself up to more issues, but you just need to get your weight slightly further forward and you'll be grand.
Just fitted a -2 to a Five with 150mm Pikes on - initial feel is that it's gonna be good!
Yeah, it's like any modifications, you have to adapt to get the best out of it.
If you just sit in the middle then you're opening yourself up to more issues, but you just need to get your weight slightly further forward and you'll be grand.
It's interesting how the trend towards longer and slacker has led to people stating you need to get your weight further forwards, when I'd say what's actually happening is you're getting your weight less far back.
One thing I have noticed with slacker/longer/lower bikes is that they seem to suit higher bars relative to the BB, more like a downhill bike set-up and less like an XC bike. And with longer reach yet slack bikes you can go very short on the stem.
The centre of the grips on my Bird are in line with the steerer tube due to running a 35mm stem and swept back high rise bars. Gives the steering a very fast precise feel - however that does lose you the natural self-centring you get from having some stem length when you smack into things going downhill fast (body weight pushing on the bars pulls front wheel straight), so I'm not sure I'd want to go that far on an enduro or downhill bike (I don't believe the 40-60mm stems on WC DH bikes are chosen due to bikes not being long enough in reach).
Thanks, looks like the angle headset will be coming off soon.
I"ll give it a few more rides, but it doesn't seem to fit my style of riding.
...looks like the angle headset will be coming off soon.
I"ll give it a few more rides, but it doesn't seem to fit my style of riding.
Looking at the Wide Angle's geometry I think you'd be better off running less fork travel, either 130 or 140mm. That'll steepen the angles by about a degree at sag, lengthen the reach (which is quite short) and drop the BB about 10mm (which must be around 335mm unsagged which is very high for a hardtail - about 30mm higher than my Zero AM).
I'm guessing your current headset can only be adding a degree of slackness as it's a 44mm headtube, so that would give you a 66 deg HA with the 160mm fork, 67 deg with a 140mm one, so 67.5 or 68.5 deg with 20% sag. Far from massively slack and the front centre isn't long either because of the short reach.
Interested in other people who might have felt the same way.
I fitted a 1.5 degree angleset to my mojo HD,it made it a much less forgiving bike on flat corners,you really had to make sure your technique was right.
I went with the 160mm Pike after reading the Singletrack mag review of the bike.
For me, a 60mm stem without the Works Component Angleset headset will probably be the way forward.
I have set the Pikesup a little soft , so they have about 30% sag.
Proper ride today, -2 is good
Rode the Cavedale descent on my 5010 posted further up the page, it was a hell of a lot easier to choose your line with zero fear of going otb, only dabbed once due to the inevitable hikers getting in the way!!
I used offset shock bushings and my 26" five now sits at 64.6 deg using the above app.
It was instantly more confidence inspiring on the downs.
I've always been intrigued about going slacker....
I used offset shock bushings and my 26" five now sits at 64.6 deg using the above app.
It was instantly more confidence inspiring on the downs.
I've always been intrigued about going slacker....
Freeborn got my headset over the weekend so it should be here on Tuesday.
In the interest of science I should probably create a test ride and do a before and after. But in the interest of being impatient I am just going to fit it straight away.
Any tips for fitting? I have an improvised press but also mallet and my favourite piece of wood.
Line up notch down the length of the bike - hit with mallet. This is also the Cane Creek approved method on YouTube, although he uses a press, coz posh.
For a ZS44 EC44 semi integrated, any recommendations for headsets?
Line up notch down the length of the bike - hit with mallet.
that my was roughly my plan.
For a ZS44 EC44 semi integrated, any recommendations for headsets?
Works Components, but you'll need to go EC44 at the top as well.
Rode the Cavedale descent on my 5010 posted further up the page, it was a hell of a lot easier to choose your line with zero fear of going otb
Now that you've had more of a test, was the climbing much harder?
OTSDR: Thanks, bit the bullet and gone for this one, http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/20-degree-ec44---ec44-89-p.asp.
Should get me down to 63deg
Bit of a stealth ad,
Having read this thread, I have taken my Angleset off, for sale in the classifieds.
Bit of a stealth ad,Having read this thread, I have taken my Angleset off, for sale in the classifieds.To be honest
i only started this thread as a stealth wanted Ad
Now that you've had more of a test, was the climbing much harder?
Nope, I genuinely thought it would be, the steering is SLIGHTLY more wandery but it's nothing if you're a frequent rider, theres absolutely no more front wheel lift due I imagine to the steeper seat tube angle.
I'm not one for honeymoon periods and like to call a spade a spade so do honestly believe it's a massive improvement, I don't know if that wound be the same for every bike, but if you've got a Solo that you want to go faster on then it's a no brainer.
So I have a Works -2 deg EC44/ZS56 headset which I originally bought for my Spitfire but then was inspired to buy a Zero AM and put it on that with a 130mm fork. And since then the Zero has gone to a Cane Creek -0.5 and 140mm fork and external lower cup and the Works one is spare and I've been ill and off the bike for literally three weeks and this thread happened. Curiosity has now got the better of me - time to put the Works into the Spitfire and shorten the 160mm Pike to 150mm.
Current geometry in Low:
HA: 65.7
SA: 73.2
Reach: 419mm
BB height: 342mm
And High:
HA: 66.7
SA: 74.2
Reach: 429mm
BB height: 354mm
(Neutral is exactly halfway between)
-2 deg and 150mm Pike will give this in Low:
HA: 64.1
SA: 74.1
Reach: 425mm
BB height: 335mm
And high:
HA: 65.1
SA: 75.1
Reach: 435mm
BB height: 347mm
I'm not one for honeymoon periods and like to call a spade a spade so do honestly believe it's a massive improvement, I don't know if that wound be the same for every bike, but if you've got a Solo that you want to go faster on then it's a no brainer.
That's good to know. I'm looking at a Bronson with -1 degree, so it will be a slightly longer travelled version of what you have now. I have got offset bushes fitted which are good but climbing is much harder due to the slacker seat tube.
To compensate for a 1 degree change you just need to nudge your saddle around half an inch forward
EDIT: fixed, as still hardly a wild amount
To compensate for a 1 degree change you just need to nudge your saddle a tiny amount forward
Actually it's about 1/2" difference.
why move the saddle?
To compensate for the slightly slacker seat tube moving the saddle backwards
After a ride on my rallon with the superstar -2 deg head set, the difference is mostly similar to how I felt after I put a -1.5 head set on my old Mojo HD.
Climbing is fine and unaffected, steep downhill is better, but on fast flat'ish trails you really need you to consciously keep your weight over the front otherwise it feels like the front wheel will wash out.
I may try lowering the stem by 10mm, or possibly even a 10mm longer stem to see if that makes it more natural feeling, but at the moment it is more difficult to get enough weight on the front wheel without it feeling a bit unnatural.
Like on my old mojo, I'm not entirely sold on this at the moment, the improvement on steep downhills is significant, but at the moment it is matched by a significant worsening on more mellow trails.
after getting my Works angle headset, I really looked at my setup all over again. the geometry of the bike was much improved, but the bars felt too high
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I messed around with stems - tried 5 different length/rise before settling on Zipp Service Course with +/- 25 degrees seen in the above image in -25 degrees
looks odd, but works great and put the handlebar in a great position - much closer to a 650 bike
Its not that the bars feel too high from a comfort point of view, its just that in my natural position theres clearly not enough weight over the front wheel.
Im hopeful that just lowering the bars by 10mm will fix that (i have 20mm space to play with). I couldnt do that on the mojo as the bars were as low as they would go.
Its all interesting, and amazing what changing one thing affects.
Took my bike with -1 out today and really happy with it. I found fire ride climbs a bit slower but only marginally. Technical climbs I found easier as it requires a bit less effort to lift the front end up and over stuff and was not slowed down as much by roots.
Going downhill it felt slower but actually was faster according to Strava. It felt more like I was down in the bike than on sitting on top of it.
I wish I had a bigger diameter head tube so I could knock another degree off
I can't believe how steep the Giant looks even after being slackened!
This is the sort of thing that should be in this thread: 😉
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Fitted a -2deg superstar slackset to my thumper last week, stock it should be around 68deg (I forgot to confirm this prior to fitting) after fitting the slack set it seems to be around 65.5 - 66. Had my first ride at the weekend on some of the natural stuff at Cannock, couldn't detect much difference from a climbing point of view, only how unfit I felt after not being on the bike for a month or so! When it came to descending the bike felt more stable but I didn't feel fast, however it would appear I managed set a couple of PR's on sections I have ridden many times before.
Deffinitely happy with the result, I was considering changing frames, but this should keep me content for a little while now!
I have the same headset in my Kona Satori which is basically the same as the Thumper and would echo your views, just need to find my offset bushings and get them in there too.
I have gone the opposite way to this thread.
Taken the Angleset off, and now reducing the fork travel to steepen the front end up a little.
Must be a bit of an old retro grouch at heart, but a very slack front end didn't suit me.
Just fitted a works -2, not ridden yet but will do tomorrow, should be fun, not a great photo, in fact awful
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