Alternative to brak...
 

Alternative to brake pad split pin - Shimano Deore

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Is there an alternative to the archaic split pin on the Deore brakes?

I've replaced them on my SLX, XT, Zee & Saint with the threaded pin & clip, but the Deore calliper isn't threaded.

I did think about tapping it, but mindful of not wanting to knacker a perfectly good calliper.

Anyone got any clever alternatives?


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 4:21 pm
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Just screw it in regardless?


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 4:24 pm
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What’s wrong with the split pin? They don’t get seized in!


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 4:27 pm
thols2, supernova, zerocool and 17 people reacted
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I've got brakes with both fastenings can't say the split causes any problems?


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 4:28 pm
thols2, supernova, wheelsonfire1 and 7 people reacted
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It's a simple idea that works, why complicate it?
When the threaded pins on 105 calipers etc seize and need drilling out they get replaced with ....... Archaic split pins.. . problem solved


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 4:28 pm
thols2, supernova, wheelsonfire1 and 11 people reacted
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A bit of wire pushed through and twisted at the top?
Ticks both boxes, won't seize and isn't a split pin


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 4:43 pm
thols2, granny_ring, granny_ring and 1 people reacted
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The tweezers in a Victorinox swiss army knife also make an emergency replacement.


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 4:47 pm
gecko76 and gecko76 reacted
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Drill and tap it, it’s just a bit of aluminium, I use Hope pins in my SLX’s.


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 5:04 pm
 bens
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I tapped my Deore calipers. I do t see how you could get it wrong to be honest. Although the metal is very soft so I guess if you kept spinning the tap, you'd knacker the thread you'd just cut.

Got some retaining bolts and the little spring clips from SJS cycles. Main reason for doing it was because in the past, I've had to swap brake pads mid ride (sticky piston that wore the pads down to metal).

It's a lot less faff to unscrew a bolt in the wind and rain than it is to try to bend the split pin using sticks, rocks and foul language.


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 5:21 pm
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Don't really see the problem with them. It looks a bit janky and seems weird when considering the overengineering of everything else on the bike, but it's really easy to replace, doesn't seize through galvanic corrosion, don't think it rattles and makes loads of noise, and doesn't have a low torque-spec allen head that could strip with numb hands if you need to change pads whilst riding. If your multitool has a flathead bit on it you can just brace it in position and press down on the bend to straighten it. Don't think I've ever heard of one coming loose and someone meeting their maker either tbh.

Only downside I've ever had with them was once I was dumb and tried to bend it with my hands and it hurt a bit when my thumb slipped off.


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 5:24 pm
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I replace all the threaded bolts and tiny circlips on my Hope/XT etc calipers, with the same Split pins I use on the Deores.

The best solution.


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 5:26 pm
thols2, zerocool, kelvin and 3 people reacted
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"I replace all the threaded bolts and tiny circlips on my Hope/XT etc calipers, with the same Split pins I use on the Deores."

Yup... Same.

The screws are just too finicky and the circlips are easy to lose.


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 6:16 pm
zerocool, kelvin, kelvin and 1 people reacted
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Ive used a shimano threaded pin and used that to tap the caliper out on multiple brakes
The split pin is just making a very simple solution more complicated not the other way round
Ive never had a bolt seize or never once have i thought screwing in a bolt anc attaching a clip too finicky


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 8:33 pm
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Split pin is the upgrade for the threaded pin.

I’m fed up of drilling out the threaded pins when they seize in place or get rounded off by people especially the road ones with the flat slot


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 9:09 pm
thols2, wheelsonfire1, breninbeener and 7 people reacted
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I've just used a shimano threaded pin to tap the threads..

Was Really easy to do.. I remember thinking it was going to be a pain.. And it just screwed in and Tapped the threads:)

Did it on the other side of my XT 4pot caliper as well so the pin screws in the other way.. (commencal meta v4.2 frame That blocks the pin from the normal side)


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 9:27 pm
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"the road ones with the flat slot"

Yeah.... Seriously.... What's with flat headed bolts. There's a place for flat headed screws and bolts, like cabinet making, but not on a bike!


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 9:36 pm
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How tight are people doing the threaded pins up that they seize?

Always put a bit of anti-seize on the threads.

Never had an issue with that.....

Will give it a go with tapping it with the bolt.


 
Posted : 26/02/2024 9:46 pm
hightensionline, dc1988, dc1988 and 1 people reacted
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The split pin is simple and effective. Why change?


 
Posted : 27/02/2024 12:15 am
kelvin and kelvin reacted
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simple and effective. Why change?

Somebody won't be getting a job in the bike industry working on new standards


 
Posted : 27/02/2024 7:48 am
thols2, ads678, ads678 and 1 people reacted
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Would R clips work on a caliper?

Screenshot 2024-02-27 08.02.42


 
Posted : 27/02/2024 9:01 am
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Split pin is the best.


 
Posted : 27/02/2024 9:17 am
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“the road ones with the flat slot”

Yeah…. Seriously…. What’s with flat headed bolts. There’s a place for flat headed screws and bolts, like cabinet making, but not on a bike!

I can understand the split pin.  Less machining on the caliper, cheap part, idiot proof (can't overtighten it or strip it, won't fall out).

But Shimano had even moved away from using JIS screws on mech limits by this time.  WTF thought process went into that screw?


 
Posted : 27/02/2024 10:21 am
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Shimano really are backwards and crude when it comes to hardware, Philips screw on the lever, slotted pad retainer bolt on top of the range XTR calipers, they finally saw sense with rear mechs and used Allen bolt limit & b-screw, split pins are Victorian engineering, I'd tap the hole and make it look like it's from this century and worth the price you paid. Never had any issues with threaded pins on Hope brakes, tightened up with the short end of the Allen key between finger and thumb, just how long are people's pads lasting to have a pin seize up, I take mine out regularly to check and clean the pads up.


 
Posted : 27/02/2024 10:52 am
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Schrödingers brakes. So unreliable that the pads have to be regularly cleaned, but so reliable that the retaining pin seizes into the caliper.


 
Posted : 27/02/2024 10:58 am
Simon and Simon reacted
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I've tapped my Deore calipers and added a threaded bolt, I've never had one seize and means I don't need to carry pliers with me to change brake pads


 
Posted : 27/02/2024 1:48 pm
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I came here to find out how to upgrade my Deore equipped bikes to threaded pins.

I've left with an intention to upgrade my threaded pin equipped bikes to split pins.


 
Posted : 27/02/2024 2:08 pm
thols2, felltop, felltop and 1 people reacted
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I don’t need to carry pliers with me to change brake pads

You don't need pliers to remove and replace a split pin.


 
Posted : 27/02/2024 2:30 pm
thols2 and thols2 reacted
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What's so hard about bending a piece of study metal 2mm that u you need pliers?

Bloody soft IT types.... Probably use hand softening, ph neutral soap, too, don't ya....


 
Posted : 27/02/2024 3:15 pm
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"You don’t need pliers to remove and replace a split pin."

I've never needed to change brake pads somewhere that I dont have a pair of pliers.


 
Posted : 27/02/2024 3:18 pm
thols2 and thols2 reacted
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I'm not sure I'd want to remove a split pin with bare hands, but with a handy stone or piece of wood to stop the pressure point on fingers etc I doubt there would be much of a problem. I'm sure a tyre level would have much the same effect.


 
Posted : 27/02/2024 8:10 pm
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Tyre lever, multitool, Swiss Army Knife, you just need something to bend the very soft iron pin straight.


 
Posted : 28/02/2024 10:38 am
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I had the screw-in pin on some brakes, it seized and required drilling out. I replaced it with the split pin. You can buy a bag of split pins on eBay for next to nothing and they are soft enough to bend by hand but hold the pads in place just fine. Bear in mind that it's just to stop them moving about when you remove the wheel, it has nothing to do with braking force.

I’ve never needed to change brake pads somewhere that I dont have a pair of pliers.

Given the right soil type and weather conditions it's entirely possible to go through a complete set of pads on a single extended event.

Shimano really are backwards and crude when it comes to hardware

It's my favourite solution.

I take mine out regularly to check and clean the pads up.

Life is too short.  And yes, my brakes work perfectly.  I am VERY picky about mechanicals but I am also quite good at coming up with efficient processes that allow me to keep my bike working perfectly with minimum faff.


 
Posted : 28/02/2024 1:47 pm