Morning chaps.
So I recently recommissioned an old Carlton racer that I bought off an old guy. Not sure if I've lost something whilst regreasing the hubs etc but something isn't right with the rear wheel hub. The wheel doesn't seem secure in the frame and often comes loose. You can tighten up the skewer as much as you can but then flicking the lever over doesn't seem to clamp it all up securely as it should. I did have to buy a replacement (old, same brand) skewer as I managed to bend the original, so perhaps this replacement was designed for a different specific frame and doesn't have enough thread to securely clamp my frame? What's the solution? Maybe some kind of spacers/washers on the hub?
Also, looking at the photo, is it normal for the hub to be sat in the middle of the run with nothing to stop it moving left/right? I seem to remember from older bikes that there should be a bit that fits over the frame and stops the hub slipping back?
Thanks!
Can't get image to work, hang on...
If its old then it may be 126mm spacing between the dropouts.
So your new 135mm skewer may not have enough thread to do up close enough before you use the qr lever
Also, looking at the photo, is it normal for the hub to be sat in the middle of the run with nothing to stop it moving left/right? I seem to remember from older bikes that there should be a bit that fits over the frame and stops the hub slipping back?
I think you are mixing a few things up there.
Some 70s ish bike had a calampnon derailleur hanger. Some horizontal drop outs have a threaded stop to set the distance. None of them kep the hub it the right place that's done with the skewer.
Have you taken it apart, snapped axles, knackered bearing etc making it act funny?
Also forgive me if stating the obvious. You are using the qr level in the right direction right? And using it correctly or biting when the lever is at 90degrees. And you haven't managed to mangle a spring in the skewer that's getting in the way?
If its old then it may be 126mm spacing between the dropouts.
So your new 135mm skewer may not have enough thread to do up close enough before you use the qr lever
Hmm yes that would make sense. Though my 'new' skewer is old, same brand (Atom), hopefully haven't binned the old one as that'll be easy to confirm.
Some 70s ish bike had a calampnon derailleur hanger. Some horizontal drop outs have a threaded stop to set the distance. None of them kep the hub it the right place that’s done with the skewer.
Ahh ok, so the setup in the photo is fine? As in, nothing missing.
Did you get the spacing even on the axle ends when servicing the hub?
The hub axle could be protruding further than the thickness of the dropout on one or both sides which means the QR clamps to the axle instead of the frame.
You can check this by measuring the thickness of the dropout versus the axle that protrudes from the end of the cone locknuts. If that makes sense!
Nice one, i'll look into that shortly. Serviced the hubs about a year ago but only really got the bike out a lot this last week due to the weather. Bloody wheel came out whilst setting off at the lights.
Nowt wrong but maybe you could move the wheel back against the end of the drop outs.
As above. Check dropout width of frame matches the hub. Frame will probably be 126mm but might just be 120mm.
It could have been spread to take a 130mm modern wheel. Make sure they match.
The axles must not stick out through the frame otherwise the QR won't tighten and this is with the wheel being a close fit in the frame before you close the QR. Bet the Atom QR will be ok. Never seen a MTB/135mm drop out one but they may exist.
It looks like a cheap pressed dropout so may well be a bit flimsy/worn.
Nowt wrong but maybe you could move the wheel back against the end of the drop outs.
Don't think that's possible as it's held in that position on the other side by the derailleur.
Yeah that's normal. The horizontal drop outs are really a hangover from pre derailleur or atleast "make it single speed for tt and the cyclo-cross season"
Actually the axle being slightly uneven is a great shout especially with thin plate drop outs like that.
I agree less with those talking about spacing. Unless it was phenomenally rigid the frame will close any gap with the pressure from the skewer no bother so much so that I have never actually bothered to cold set a frame. It sounds much more like you are bottoming out on something.
It'll be something I've done (wrong). When I bought it, I was doing some work for an older guy, he had it in his garage, looked like he'd bought it in the 80's, had a quick go on it then left it waiting for me to turn up thirty years later. All I did was put new rubber on it and repack the hubs. I bet I've messed up the the even spacing.
Have you checked the locknuts are tight up against the cones? If there’s a gap there the wheel may slip to one side under power. Also grease the skewer. It is difficult to tell if that q/r is fully closed in your picture, the lever needs to go right over and sometimes against a seat stay that is not possible, maybe try moving it so the lever faces back and closes against the drop out rather than the frame.
May be of use;
https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/hub-overhaul-and-adjustment
Did you get the spacing even on the axle ends when servicing the hub?
The hub axle could be protruding further than the thickness of the dropout on one or both sides which means the QR clamps to the axle instead of the frame.
Bingo. This was the problem. Virtual pint to you. Back to hub school for me.