Having issues getting my IS front brake spaced correctly after switching forks.
Normally shims on the disc brake do the trick but the caliper needs to go the other way to line up with the rotor. (it can't go any further because it is touching the IS mount)
Two options - the IS mounts need facing or I add a .5mm washer to my axle and then play around with shims on the caliper if necessary. (option 2 is a doddle and requires no LBS involvement)
The only washer I had was 1mm and it moved the rotor back from the fork as required but 1mm is too much - .5mm would be more than enough.
Had a look on t'internet but couldn't really find what I needed. Any ideas?
angle grinder to the mount? NOT THE FORKS !!!!
Can't quite picture what your needing to adjust (and I've got coffee jitters re-reading isn't helping) but would shims on the rotor / hub help - so you can move the rotor to the calliper rather than the other way round (like the ones syntace make)
Assuming its a 6 bolt hub.
Agree. Rotor shims would do the trick. If you struggle to find one, perhaps some of the Shimano security tabs would work under the rotor. Heck, even some caliper shims under the rotor would do it.
He's looking to move the hub/rotor away from the fork by putting a shim between the cone and locknut if i've read it correctly, shimming the caliper or rotor would exacerbate the problem. Shims like those can often be found in your LBS box of salvaged bits, or failing that, maybe a slightly thicker locknut.
Yes they do and Hope make/made them.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-rotor-spacer/rp-prod3288
and a large retailer has them for sale.
I had the same problem, is it a second hand fork by any chance? Have a look at the inside surface of the fork where it holds the wheel, you might find it is quite worn. I can only guess this happens when people ride with their quick releases only done up loosely which wears the soft aluminium away.
To Fix: Make the wheel wider on that side by putting an extra washer in the axle (helps to ave knackered wheel hanging about). I can send you pictures of mine if you want? I did also file the mount down a bit but there's a limit to how much you can take off, you'll probably need the washer anyway.
Your lbs may have some fr axle spacers knocking around.
EDIT: Just reread the OP.
What's the problem with using the 1mm washer? If the wheel still fits I would get as much clearance as you can because I find mud acts as a grinding paste in the narrow gap between my IS mount and disc and has taken all the paint of both of them.
He's looking to move the hub/rotor away from the fork by putting a shim between the cone and locknut if i've read it correctly, shimming the caliper or rotor would exacerbate the problem.
Yes, I can't add shims to the caliper because the caliper is tight against the IS mount and is still fouling the rotor so either the IS mount needs a little material shaved off (properly so it is square)or I add a washer to increase the gap between fork and rotor.
The only DIY option is to add the washer to the axle which will increase the gap between the rotor and the caliper. They are direct mount - not on an adaptor and I don't want to savage them with a file and end up with a cock-eyed caliper.
What's the problem with using the 1mm washer?
I could get away with the 1mm washer and a shim on the caliper but I'm pretty sure that .5mm would be pretty much perfect after experimenting with the 1mm washer.
There isn't a lot of axle protruding past the locknut anyway and I'd rather lose half a mm than a full one (@nal?) Yes, splitting the difference is an option also...
.5mm washer FTW.
Forks are new carbon jobbies but the dropouts are narrower than my old suspension forks...
I'm sure I've seen really thin washers on a Deore front disc hub - between the the cone and locknut. Scavenge mode enabled. 😆
Pics might have helped, I know...
The mythical .5mm washer will fix it. Of this I am sure. 😀
Just thought of something. On old caliper brakes, they used to have really thin washers between the arms. (sometimes brass IIRC)
I might have some in the toolbox. They are wide enough to take a 9mm drill bit and still fit on the axle so they could be a winner. 😕
This sort of thing...
Coatesy, you're right. My reply was utter bollocks. Sorry op.
I do have a disc mount facing tool if you're near Nottingham though.
Coatesy, you're right. My reply was utter bollocks. Sorry op.
No worries, I had trouble trying to explain the issue clearly.
I managed to drill out one of the (brake spindle) washers I found but I had to grip it with mole-grips so its a little scarred but the alignment will be perfect when I fit a decent washer.
A guy on eBay does them but for M10 axles. Shimano did do a 0.5mm M9 washer on the XT M750 front hub (LX as well, I think) and I have a part number so might be able to order one?
I'll have a shufty in our spares drawers tomorrow, may well have something for you.
Surely just taking 0.5mm off the IS mounts would do the trick?
Surely just taking 0.5mm off the IS mounts would do the trick?
Yes, that would also do the trick but I'd want that done properly - faced so the IS mount is nice and square.
I was looking at a DIY option and fitting a washer does the trick without me picking up a file (and messing up the caliper or IS mount) or going to LBS.
LBS should be able to do that. The problems with extra washers on the axles means less engagement in the dropout. Also means if you change hubs, you dont have to bugger about with the new hub.
Even 1mm would be ok on the IS mount. Theres plenty of meat on them usually.