My Orange Gyro came with a Race Face double chainset. I also have a brand new XT triple chainset sat in the garage.
Im going to convert to 1x10 with T-rex and Hope retainer ring (though maybe an absolute black oval!)
Which of the two chainsets will give me the best chainline?
When i have done this conversion i have used the existing triple, but the presence of the double has me perturbed.
Thanks
Triple will be better, but double is workable.
Both will be fine normally, moved 1 BB spacer to sort out a slight alignment issue on my Double.
Great thanks.
I hadnt thought of moving BB spacers.
Bit of chain line discussion here:
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/xt-cranks-worth-considering-anything-else-more-the-money
Yep, good chain line can be achieved with both in my experience (slx double and triple), although some folk are adamant that an even betterer chainline can be had with a triple.
I prefer my 1*10 with a triple. Gives me more gears at the top and bottom of the range with little extra weight and doesn't need a weird 40t cassette. It's win win
Great thanks.
I hadnt thought of moving BB spacers.
It's not an ideal solution - it means your cranks are offset. Most people won't notice I'm sure, but you're opening yourself up to a load of knee and hip problems!
I thought about that when I moved a spacer over, but I figured that there can easily be more than 2.5mm variation in what position I plonk my feet down on the pedals anyway! Obviously different with SPDs, but I'm not sure it's a concern with flats.
2.5mm. If you haven't got that much float in your hips and knees, you need looking at.
lesgrandepotato - Member
I prefer my 1*10 with a triple. Gives me more gears at the top and bottom of the range with little extra weight and doesn't need a weird 40t cassette. It's win win
😆 Can't tell if massive misunderstanding or expert trolling...
I doubt your Crush came with a double - I dont think RF make a specific double in the Ride spec. The RF will be a better chain line if you move the black spacer off the drive side spindle onto the non drive side and move the BB spacer too.
2.5mm. If you haven't got that much float in your hips and knees, you need looking at.
Quite possibly, but why would you do it anyway?
Quite possibly, but why would you do it anyway?
To improve / centralise the chainline on a double crankset.
Whether it's necessary, or whether it is better achieved by spacing the chainring over - different point. i wanted to pick up on the comment that offsetting the cranks by 2.5mm "open(s) yourself up to a load of knee and hip problems!" - which i think is a big overstatement.
Is chainline really an issue with a 10-spd derraileur setup? I can understand it on a singlespeed/hub gear with a SS chain that isn't designed to "bend". But with a mech, even if you get perfect alignment for 1 gear, it'll be out of alignment for the other 9, so is there any point worrying?
Worry more about your tyre valves and logos lining up.
No, I don't think it is. i think the issue is more perception that anything real. FWIW here's my musings.
1. If you use a double chainset, with the ring on the outer position, then the chainline is slightly offset to the outer half of the cassette when straight. So to then reach the innermost (biggest) cog, the chain is slightly more crossed than it would be under optimised conditions.
2. An old style ring is not a tight fit to the chain, it allows a bit of sideways flex. A NW doesn't, it has wide teeth which prevent that. There's more interference when the chain is crossed which results in a bit more noise.
3. When you're using the innermost cog, that's when you're going uphill at 4mph. There's no wind noise, no stone chatter, the only thing you can hear is your breathing (and that voice telling you you can stop and walk but if you do you're a loser). Any noises in the drivetrain are most likely to be heard in this gear.
Add all together and the perception is that the situation is worse than it really is. It's the worst case of crossing on the drivetrain, but it sounds worse than it is.
Yes, there are ways to reduce the amount of crossing as per prior messages, which will improve it slightly, but just because it's the worst case scenario, it doesn't follow that it's a 'bad' one.
Whether it's necessary, or whether it is better achieved by spacing the chainring over - different point. i wanted to pick up on the comment that offsetting the cranks by 2.5mm "open(s) yourself up to a load of knee and hip problems!" - which i think is a big overstatement.
Meh, I know someone who did suffer a load of knee/ITB issues after doing this. Perhaps aggravated an underlying condition, could've been complete coincidence, dunno, it wasn't me, but some people can be quite susceptible to that. I did it a few years ago and I could feel the difference. Didn't cause me problems personally, but it was noticeable. Just like if you suddenly shunted your cleats across.
My point was that the OP has a double and a triple - you don't have to **** about with offsetting your cranks on a triple, so I'd use that.
FWIW I ran an XTR Race double as 1x10 using the outer ring position (not NW ring) and it was absolutely fine, the difference in chainline is small, but it will be marginally worse for it in the largest sprockets, particularly if you're using a 40/42t expander.
I run mine 'misaligned' and what with standing, sitting, falling off, getting back on, my knees are never in the same place twice, I've never had an issue. YMMV
Like i said I think it (moving the cranks over) is a possible solution to a problem that isn't really a problem, just a perception. As you said, if you have the option to use a middle position of a triple then i'd do that in preference to any other bodged or unbodged double.
I run mine 'misaligned' and what with standing, sitting, falling off, getting back on, my knees are never in the same place twice, I've never had an issue. YMMV
My M did V, as I've said. Others may do too. Just something to be aware of. It'll depend on what sort of riding you do as well I guess.
Ran my 1x10 with Hope one up from an XTR race double with no spacers. Chain worked fine, tiny bit meshy on the 40 but perfectly workable. By the time I get onto the 40 I'm wrecked and don't care what it sounds like as long as it's there!