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Embarrassing him or not he sold you a frame "some people have had issues with" so it's a known problem but he happily took your money anyway? I'd not be pleased about that even if i did "like him"
Looks like bscrew to me in this pics although the one that would make that obvious is too dark to say for certain. Also I'd say your cable outer is too short which will cause other shifting issues. 142 and 136 terminate at the same width so that's not an issue. The difference is purely in where they measure to. Many bikes can swap the dropouts and the internal dimension is the same either way on the frame.
Can you not get the builder to face the gear hanger down to size?
Also I think there are some pics of your bike on his site but could be wrong...
If it is built by who I think he seemed a nice guy when I met him I'm sure he could sort that out easy enough.
How long ago did you discover that the frame was out of spec? Just thinking that it woyld have been handy to mention that before the collective "brains of STW started trying to figure out what was wrong 🙂He has now fixed it for ongoing production and I like him so I'm not going to name him to save any embarrassment.
I'd be asking the frame maker to fix it for me rather than bodging up something that might come back to haunt me later.
Here's a shot of my tallboy (M9000 cassette and mech):
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Note how your fixed drop-out sets the mech further out from the outer edge of the cassette. I suspect that this exceeds the available tolerance for
This isn't bang up to date (it's mostly 10 speed, but I think the tolerances are the same for 11 speed):
Page 27 discusses the thickness of the dropout - i.e. the distance from the end of the hub axle (excluding any recess) and the mech mounting face which should be no more than 8mm. I've measured mine and it's around 7.5mm:
[img] https://i.imgur.com/QokKAZK.pn g" target="_blank">
https://i.imgur.com/QokKAZK.pn g"/> [/img]
I'd be interested in what your matching measurements are...
If your dropout is too far out, how about trying something like this?
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/all/products/roadlink
The question was originally because I was the first to have this problem, I guess there have been some others since. The odd thing is that some others running exactly the same setup as me don't have the problem which is why I was wondering if it was something specific to my vintage of mech.
Sorry if that wasn't clear.
which is why I was wondering if it was something specific to my vintage of mech
Given that it's obviously a Starling from the design...
Of the two people I know who ordered frames from them, one turned up looking like a banana & the other was welded so pissed and badly it didn't need to be anywhere near a jig to confirm, i'm going on a tolerance issue with the frame.
Given that it's obviously a Starling from the design...
Just to give a counter-point, I've not had any issues with mine with the gearing etc. Although I'm running a SRAM mech on a hope 10-44, whether the shape of the mech means it get a bit more clearance I don't know.
(sorry just saw you spoke to the builder so ignore my last message)
daern - Member
Here's a shot of my tallboy (M9000 cassette and mech):
Thanks Daern that's very helpful. I'll see if my Zee based bodge works later. Here's hoping Shimano keep the same standards for that link piece across all mech types.
Just a thought....
Can you remove the direct mount link and attach the bolt nearest the derailleur cable directly to the frame?
Looks like you might have clearance without it fouling the cassette and it would bring the mech in? Might work with a bit of b-screw adjustment to clear the casette?
Sorted 😀
As I thought the Zee dogbone & washer combo is a direct swap for the XTR dogbone and the 3.5mm washer when switched sides gave me just the right amount of movement to align everything correctly and get all the gears. See pics below.
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Now it's just a matter of testing it out but damn the 40T gearing feels low! What must Eagle be like????
If you fit a grown up chainring it's much better 😉 . The whole point of the 40+ t rear sprocket is so you don't have to run a baby chainring at the front, giving you better range at the faster end of the block. Try a 36t chainring and you'll find the 40t is much more normal.