I upgraded last year to an slx ten speed setup mainly because I liked the idea of a clutch rear mech, mine kept throwing the chain off on rough descents. Now the clutch mech works a treat, descents are silent, but it seems the trade off is the racket it makes the rest of the time. Everything is shimano 10spd, but the chain makes a row going around and if it gets muddy it's terrible. It only seems acceptable if it's clean and polished, as new, which to me seems crap as it's an mtb group. Does anyone else have this problem? Is SRAM quieter?
No.
And no.
There is something amiss.
No and no again.
Is the chain on the right way round? (writing on the outside) they are directional IIRC...
check you have routed the chain correctly through the cage of the rear derailleur, if not it will make a horrible racket and you will feel drag.
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and as others said, the directional chain is fitted with "shimano" writing facing outwards on driveside of bike.
Sounds like the chain could be looped around the tab on the lower arm between the jockey wheels. I foolishly did an 8-day MTB race with my new 29er like this before discovering 😳
Cheers, Rich
I have an NW front ring and XT mech / shifter / cassette / KNC chain.
It's quiet and crisp. Yet to be used in properly gloopy mud but has been faultless so far.
Perhaps time to take it to an LBS?
Hmmm, my 9spd setup on the other bike is faultless, I noticed the direction for the chain when fitting. Maybe it's just all worn out, I've had to replace the rear mech after less than a year as it stopped dropping into the last small cogs smoothly, even after a gear cable change. The shifters gone really stiff as well, even with a cable change, more noticeable when the clutch is switched on. I don't think it's Shimanos best work, does the job s'pose. Just wondered if SRAM was better, lasted longer...
Have you gone the right side of the tab on the mech? A lot of folk miss it, and that would do exactly what you've said. The one between the jockeys.
The shifters gone really stiff as well, even with a cable change, more noticeable when the clutch is switched on.
Did you replace the outer too? That, IME, is more important than the inner cable.
Have you gone the right side of the tab on the mech? A lot of folk miss it, and that would do exactly what you've said. The one between the jockeys.
And just to trip you up, the chain goes the other side of said tab than it did on older mechs...
And not the side you necessarily expect it to go!
I may have done that with the mech tab. Therefore it's clearly easy to do and not at all stupid.
Likewise.
IIRC (on XTR at least), it's a 'trough' shape, so one assumes the chain is designed to run through it, whereas it's not, it runs over it, but if the chain is folded back on itself, such as when the wheel's not in, it fits in the groove.
robinlaidlaw - MemberAnd just to trip you up, the chain goes the other side of said tab than it did on older mechs...
that might explain why i've managed to get it wrong on a *few* occasions...
The shifters gone really stiff as well, even with a cable change, more noticeable when the clutch is switched on.
I'd clean and re grease the clutch. They can get quite stiff after a while.
While your at it also do the pivot bolt at the rear of the clutch.
Some good suggestions. When I changed the cable I only changed the outer run to the rear mech, not from the shifter to the first stop. I'll swap it all out and grease er up. Cheers.
And check your chain.
Find the thing that is wrong, and unwrong it.