has anyone ever done this? i was thinking of buying a hope chainring and bash guard, and carry on riding until hope release their new small chain guide.do you think it would work without one?
Cheers
probably not, unless you keep pedaling then the tension holds the chain on.
would a cheap stinger work in the mean time?
If you do it you should use a chainring with no shifting ramps, tall teeth will help keep it on. My commuter has recently been changed to 1x9 with a 44T blackspire downhill ring on the front and no problems so far.
Bah have they still not released that yet? I am sure when I emailed they had said March!
Presuming you are meaning this:
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My [b]commuter [/b]has recently been changed to 1x9 with a 44T blackspire downhill ring on the front and no problems so far.
The clues are there...
I'd not want to do it on a bike used off road.
How do you know his commute isn't off-road ?
It'll be fine if you enjoy dropping your chain and slamming yer nuts into your stem every couple minutes
I've got 1 x 9 on my commuter, and I lost the chain often enough to get a Paul Chainkeeper.
Salsa SS ring, oldish XT mech. On road, but sh1tty roads with loads of lumps and potholes.
Good lord, this topic must be the one that crops up the most and has the most controversy associated with it.
It should be a sticky thread.
You can't ride off road, over rough terrain, on a single ring set up without at least a top guide, and not expect to drop your chain fairly regularly and anyone who says differently is just not trying hard enough.
How do you know his commute isn't off-road ?
Seriously? 🙄
Because if it was 'proper' off road, and I use that in the most ironic sense, he most likely wouldn't have a 'commuter' bike, nor would he be using a 44t single ring.
I made an assumption, but I'm going to stand by my assumption that it's at best a tame off-road commute, and most likely a road one.
🙂
njee20 - Member
Seriously?Because if it was 'proper' off road, and I use that in the most ironic sense, he most likely wouldn't have a 'commuter' bike, nor would he be using a 44t single ring.
I made an assumption, but I'm going to stand by my assumption that it's at best a tame off-road commute, and most likely a road one.
Got a 38t Middleburn Uno and a Rohloff on my Nicolai at the moment, without any guide at the front and the chain still hasn't come off, even after a week in Verbier.
I know it's not quite the same as 1x10 as the chainline is always perfect but still...
Rachel
I know it's not quite the same as 1x10 as the chainline is always perfect but still...
I love your sense of humour Rachel 😀
BTW did you go with Bike Verbier?
Put an N-Gear Jump Stop on there for now.
Am I missing something but does [url= http://www.bikeradar.com/gallery/article/pro-bike-kulhavys-specialized-s-works-epic-35249/6 ]THIS[/url] not have any form of guide on it? Maybe it's just been built up for display and would be ridden with one, I don't know.
You're missing something. It's got XX1 fitted, which uses a special chainring with profiled teeth to keep the chain on.
It's got XX1 fitted, which uses a special chainring with profiled teeth to keep the chain on.
And apparently it works really rather well!
geetee1972 - MemberAnd apparently it works really rather well!
Still curious about how it works without adding friction. If the chain has to "clip" onto the alternating teeth, surely it added a little resistance?
Still curious
Yep me to; I can't visualise what it's doing either for the same reasons you're saying and I was skeptical it would work until I read some initial reviews of riders doing the DH lines in Whistler saying it does.
I was thinking along the same lines as you about resistance but thinking it would surely increase wear on the chain and teeth and as they wore, the degree of security would also diminish.
Doesn't XX1 have a clutchy mech as well? Does make a big difference, that- not enough that I was happy with no guide at all, but enough that I don't bother with a lower guide.
Tried it for a few weeks and got hacked off with the chain jumping off so I fitted a chainguide device from Superstar. Now no probs...
Yes, it does have a Type 2 mech. I'd definitely try it, can't be arsed to upgrade to it though, and I wonder what chainring longevity will be like, and more significantly if you start losing the chain as soon as it wears.
On my C456 hardtail - Bash ring on one side and an n-gear Jump Stop on the other. That combined with a short cage X9 mech and chain length set for a hard tail. Oh and a proper single ring is essential. I use an FSA Single DH ring which is much better at keeping the chain on.
Works pretty well, though the Jump Stop is just attached to the seat tube and slips round sometimes even though it's done up very tight. Mainly if there's a chain suck incident and something pops off somewhere and jams, but not sure what/how it does it. Rare though.
Next up is my full sus converting to 1x10, but for that I've got an e.13 TRS+ which is a lightweight Trail/AM guide with top guide and bottom roller. After the hassles I've had with it in 2x10 set up (X0) and chain jump/drop loads without a guide, and additionally still hassle with an MRP X-Guide which just has a bottom guide, not top, then the number one priority really I feel is something to keep the chain on at the top and as much tension in the chain that you can get away with safely. Bear in mind you need to account for the rear suspension with a full sus and the chain will be naturally slacker than on a hard tail at times.
Pauls chain keeper! 🙂
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That Paul's jobby looks good. Does it rub in outer gears?
Ps how much weight do you save by ditching rings ,mech and shifter. My front mech picks up stones and never works. Have just gone 3x10 and will see if I need other rings before converting.
My wifes bike is set up 1x9 with no guide & that must have dropped a dozen times on a canal ride earlier this year. Off road you've no chance to be honest.
Superstar XCR guide is only £16 or so. Why faff about. Doesn't rub once its set up.
This was my set up last year, worked perfectly & that's just a Deore ring, & an old one at that. If your hammering rocky stuff I reckon you'd need a top & bottom but that applies to 2x9/10 also anyway.
[url= http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2718/5837624536_dbd4a39029_b.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/takisawa2/5837624536/ ]IMAG0525[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/takisawa2/ ]pten2106[/url], on Flickr
Is it a daft question or idea?
I have a bb mounted Stinger on my Mega. If I go 1x10 can I use this with ISG mounted top guide or will they foul each other?
Might get away with it. From memory the iscg mounts on my Dialled were inward of the BB.