Picking up a frame tomorrow, that I used to own a good few years ago. Really looking forward to building it up – proper fun bike.

Its only problem is its slack seat-angle which hinders its climbing ability. Obviously going to have to try it once I’ve got it built up, but other than a straight post with the saddle shoved forward a touch more than usual, is there any real workarounds?

short fork, but might spoil the “fun” bit ?

If it has horizontal dropouts, could slide the back wheel out a bit to stop wheelies

otherwise seatpost & saddle as you said

don’t ride sitting down

… low bars, maybe longer stem (again, see “fun”)

how does a slack seat angle hinder climbing? other than on very steep stuff where its easier to accidentally manual? longer stem?

so what is the frame anyway?

how does a slack seat angle hinder climbing? other than on very steep stuff where its easier to accidentally manual? longer stem?

Just feels horrible, you feel way too over the back wheel and it feels quite inefficient. Not sure if it is actually less efficient but it definitely feels it to me. I’m having the same issue with my bullit – great frame for going down but the seat angle makes me feel like I could wheelie at any given point.

the first Enduro SX’s had stupidly slack seat angles, so much so that at full seatpost extension your saddle’s miles from the bars and all your weight is over the rear wheel. I counter this by sitting on the nose of the saddle for any sat down climbing and stand up with the saddle slammed all the rest of the time. you could use a layback post spun roi=und 180deg but then the saddle will feelo in the wrong place for your inner thighs when riding with it down.

had the same issue (well not really an issue just a preference) with a 90’s retro bike i’ve built up. didn’t fancy the long stretched feel – So i spun the ( non inline) seatpost around and moved the saddle foward on the rails. Bike now feels shorter than it should ( although it wouls still be acceptable stretched) and weight is nicely ove rthe front end. Got a nice big tyre upfront too and it rides so well.Fine climbing too.Also put some chunky Yeti grips on it too as it’s rigid and there’s a fair bit of weight distribution over the front.Also i do not put the saddle up that high.

It’d look pretty goofy, but could you not put a layback seatpost in backwards?
edit: what ^that^ guy said.

An unfashionably long stem my help

You could fit an angleset if you don’t mind slackening the steering further – it’ll have the side effect of also steepening the seat angle by a corresponding amount, though it’ll also drop the bottom bracket slightly. Y

ou can also try dropping the cockpit a bit. Flip the stem, fit wide, flat bars or a lower rise riser, that’ll put more weight on the front wheel.

My old scott genius seemed rather sensetive to seatpost heights with its supa/slack seat tube (bent to have room for the shock) Someone posted a maverick (comedy slack seat angle for same reasons) on here the other day with a layback thomson seatpost (the one that looks bent) the wrong way round: apparently the seat clamp has quite a range of angle adjustment.

Back stretches.

Also, an expensive option but a travel adjust fork that winds in a lot would probably help quite a bit.. think this will be the option I take, Lyrik u-turn should do the job 🙂

Ba-boom!

I bought this frame (literally, THIS frame) new in 2003 – my first suspension bike. I was a teenage back then, was a massive purchase for me even though it was quite cheap by today’s standards. Did a few DH races on it, sold it on at some point, a good 7 years ago at least.

Spotted it on pinkbike this week – cheap, local… couldn’t resist.

Going to swap over all the parts off my current main MTB and see how it rides. The frames heavy, but I’m hoping its going to build up into an awesome fun little bike. having looked at an old photo of when I had it built up reminds me how much better the componentry we have now is, more advanced forks, much, much lighter wheels etc – so it should be really nice.

#
As purchased.

Had a VERY stuck Bottom bracket. Removed by being smart not a brute. Those headset cups are even the ones I fit back in ’03. Unfortunately the supplied Thomson post that came with the frame has disappeared, though I’ll forgive that.

This morning looked like this –

All bearings pulled, which were seized practically solid. Right mess.

Now all the bearings seats have been cleaned up. I’ve turned a new main pivot on the lathe (It was wrecked) and cleaned up the linkage.

Shock removed and cleaned up – Contemplating buying an Air shock for it, but its 6.5 x 1.5 which is actually pretty rare these days! I’ll wait and see how its rides first. Maybe get the Vanilla R push tuned instead.

I was going to paint the frame (mate in a body-shop) but frankly its not worth the effort – you only end up throwing off some rocks on the first ride.

So 800 grit, some G3 compound and some polish, and its come up lovely – lots of chips, but the paint that remains is nice and shiny white again, not dull beige.

I am properly excited about building this one up again.

For those un-familiar with the frame – Its an ‘Enduro SX Supercross’,
a pretty rare model that Specialized made in 2003 – based on the Enduro, beefed up, extra bracing, custom geometry, custom linkage etc. Just over 4″ travel.
Its the bike that led to the introduction of the SX-trail, and we know how popular that got.

Low BB, slack headangle, very much like some really up-to date mid travel frames out now. Two options by flipping the link. Just the slack seat angle to contend with.

Best bikes ever. Fact.

I used to have one, liked it. Sold it as it was a bit small and heavy for xc so I went back to a hardtail.

It was a good bike for hamsterley

Awesome, I’ve a photo of me doing a DH race at Hamsterley on mine too.

I do remember it being heavy, but I also reckon that due to advancement, and being older/spending more, the bits I have to hang off it now are much higher quality and lighter.

My modern tubeless Hope hoops must weigh a crapload less than the d321 and Cheap DH tyres that I used to have.

Bearings on order now!

Yeah, build it up with light parts and it’ll be a proper doer.

One thing I found with mine was the back end seemed quite flexy. I remember pumping into a hip jump take off and it felt like the back wheel was going to over take the front.

Another thing to note is there were issues with the left hand chainstay snapping/cracking. I heard this was due to using large disc rotors, I ran mine with a 160mm. Never had any issues.

I snapped two.

reacharounds and slack seat angles.. 😯

I think the whole frame and geometry and intended use are more against you than just a slack seat angle. It doesn’t look very xc.