Given the choice I go for cartridges - I can never set the cup and cones up without ages and ages of fiddling. Plus replacing the cartriges is easy and its only those bits that wear - even if you ride them worn out for ages. But then Im not PeterPrody 
Bike Forum
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Which hubs for longevity and servicability?
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Posted 2 years ago #
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As an aside... although Shimano say you can't replace the 'cup' in the hub shell once pitted, you can. Next time just buy a complete hub and swap all the internals across, works out cheaper.
Posted 2 years ago # -
If you look at high end road bike wheels most of them use cup and cone because you can set them up to spin faster, and for roadies esp racers this is key.
Also if you stay on top of maintenance then they will last a very long time.. But when they wear out the case hardening in the cup gets pitted and unless you can get replacement cups (you could in the eighties) then the hub is wrecked.
If you are slack and lazy (like me) or dont have the facilities or tools (not like me, lots of room and loads of kit) then cartridge bearings are a godsend, like other posters have said when they wear out they don't wreck the hub (mostly).
I think the best bit about this is the fact that they can get you home without wrecking the hub, if a cup/cone goes wrong on the road if you carry on riding then the hub is dead..
Posted 2 years ago # -
toys19 - Member
If you look at high end road bike wheels most of them use cup and cone because you can set them up to spin faster, and for roadies esp racers this is key.Anyone who thinks that hub bearing friction is significant is dreaming!
Posted 2 years ago # -
Hmm, I cant say I have ever felt it but all my roadie mates spit on sealed bearings for precisely that reason, also friction is proportional to load so it may well be something you only notice at higher speeds or only on the bike. Like I said I prefer sealed...
Posted 2 years ago # -
HOPE
Posted 2 years ago # -
HOPE
Posted 2 years ago # -
Or Shi*mano if you like to service the drive side every 3 & 1/2 yards if riding in the wet and mud.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Or Shi*mano if you like to service the drive side every 3 & 1/2 yards if riding in the wet and mud.
Posted 2 years ago # -
I think I read somewhere that C&C hubs have something like 1/5th the rolling resistance of cartridge hubs.
I now use CK hubs, but for a long time I used XTR as I prefer to be able to adjust the bearings if any play develops (as opposed to Hope's "when there's play, throw them away" bearings).Posted 2 years ago # -
Thanks all for your iteresting "facts" - to summarise:
cup and cone = excellent if you remember to religiously service them even when you think they're fine (I'd like to think I'd do this, but probably won't), and once you've accidentally forgotten to service them (for a few years) they could be irreparably damaged
cartridge e.g. hope - cost a few pounds more per year but you can ignore them until something's wrong, and they have a bit more resistance (though that probably wont make a noticeable difference, I remember reading an article by Lennard Zinn about it here)
I have some ritchey road sealed ones, which I'd like to have messed about with, but the freehub body is too soft and the casette has made big dents in it! That's a design fault.
Posted 2 years ago # -
IF................IF Shimano were as reliable as they used to was then XT cup and cone would be GREAT.
BUT they are not.
I have experienced the incredible (no matter what you bloody do) New Shimano XT 'UNDOES ITSELF' hub and I know of other examples personaly and several more reported on here. You do them up tight as you like.........You locktite them......... THEY COME UNDONE in around 200 miles or less. They break your QR and they bend your drop outs. Nothing wrong say the Madison people!
Thanks but no thanks.Shame because I have a ten year old pair of XT hubs that are still alive....if a little rumbly..... but they did always get serviced at the first sign of trouble.
Posted 2 years ago #
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