I've dismantled a dud sealed square taper BB to see if it would be repairable.
The bearing is a 163110 2RS
Apparently this is a bearing specifically for bicycle use.
I've searched on Google etc and on various bearing sites with no luck.
Does anyone know of a source for these bearings (preferably in the UK)?
I don't want to have to buy thousands though 
Tried various forums - looks like thousands!
That makes it a no go.
Maybe worth measuring it & seeing if it corresponds with a more generic part number?
Check the OD and ID for a match, it may be that you can get some in a slightly different width that the cups/frame will still accomodate.Going on bearing no.s alone's not always useful, witness the 61805 Shimano BB fiasco, or 6002 bearings from a cheapo BB that were nowhere near the same size as off the shelf 6002s.
Done all that. There was no number on mine so I put the micrometer on it.
It's 16mm spindle, 31mm OD and 10mm wide. Only used for bicycle BBs apparently.
Shimano in particular tend to use unique bearings specifically to stop people trying to do their own maintenance on what is, by Shimano, seen as a non-servicable component.
If other people see sufficient demand then they'll make bearings (and tools available) for stuff (eg HT2 BB's) but I Think with square taper they last so long and cost so little that no one think's there's sufficient need.
It may be that you need a 40 tonne press to fit the things as well...
I've done the same with an old RPM bottom bracket. I looked and couldn’t find bearings to fit (same size as you quote), but when I noted that the nearest size were at least £4 each (http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=6214) it doesn’t seem worth it when I can get a whole BB for less:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?PartnerID=79&ModelID=22376
wwaswas - Member
Shimano in particular tend to use unique bearings specifically to stop people trying to do their own maintenance on what is, by Shimano, seen as a non-servicable component.
... I Think with square taper they last so long and cost so little that no one think's there's sufficient need.
... need a 40 tonne press to fit the things as well...
The BBs are a disposable item, and as the bearing is specific to this application, the only users are OEM.
Unfortunately the supply of good quality ST BBs is likely to dry up now that there are so many new standards. Yet another new standard has popped up in the last few weeks.
Stock up, buy 1 a month or get a bulk order via crc or lbs 
I've tried bearing suppliers. That's why I thought I'd try here.
The idea wasn't to save money, but to get the best quality bearings possible.
I've got other solutions to this problem, so I'll just put this in the too much hassle basket.
I have 2x 163110-2RS bearings in a VP Bottom Bracket.
The bearings MUST be able to be removed. The middle of the BB might be an alloy sleeve (hollow). Stand the BB on its end, so that one of the square tapers is sitting freely, in open vice jaws. The BB is sitting up-ended on one of the 163110-2RS bearings, on top of the vice jaws. Don't tighten the vice jaws up - no need. Knock the top of the up-ended BB on the taper end, firmly with a hammer (you may want to put a bolt or nut into the BB end, to protect the thread when you use a hammer on it.) One of the 163110-2RS bearings should move up/down, enough that some play is detected. You might only get 1-2mm of play, but this is enough that the alloy sleeve in the middle, is now loose. (Improvisation required in next step) Reposition the BB so that you can knock one of the square taper ends, and the 163110-2RS closest to that square taper end, should drift out, over the square taper end that you are also knocking with a hammer. Repeat with the other side and other 163110-2RS bearing.
If the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve of the 163110-2RS bearing is sloppy, then you can discard the bearing. If the inner and outer sleeve are firm, and/or if they are gritty and clogged up, you might be able to clean and regrease.
-2RS = 2 rubber seals.
These rubber seals (black discs), are actually tinplate, rubber coated on the outside. The rubber is fairly robust. The tinplate can be punctured, dented or bent, so be careful. (When the seal is damaged, your sealed bearing is now an open bearing. Use at your own risk.) Use a flat jewellers screwdriver to c a r e f u l l y prise up one end of a rubber seal. Start from the outer circumference of the seal and once lifted c a r e f u l l y move the jewellers screwdriver around the seal like some ppl might do, when they remove a bike tyre. Both rubber seals can be removed like this, and the bearings inside, and their cage, can be cleaned with kero, and then again with fresh clean kero. The bearings should then spin freely, but maybe a bit tinny-sounding. Pack the bearing cage with grease, on both sides, in the same way you might pack caged car wheel bearings with grease. Clean the seals, and then carefully press each back in each side of 163110-2RS bearing.
Re-assemble the 163110-2RS bearings onto the BB by knocking a hammer, onto a socket, which sits closely on ONLY the inner sleeve of the 163110-2RS bearing. You may need to use a deep socket to get the height over your square taper end. This part is also important because an ill-fitting socket will damage your tinplate/rubber seals.
That should do it.
Think the OP was trying to find new bearings to replce some knackered ones having already managed to take the bb apart
Hmmm.
I've tried a few years ago here in Australia.
The bearing was measured @ CBC (bearing supply company) and it did not match any bearing dimension in their list. They were curious about where it would come from, and when I said it was from a bicycle, they said they could not help. A quick look on the internet suggests that this bearing is made in ABEC-1 quality as a standard in China, and better quality only by arrangement, and must order 50,000 qty!
I've recently recovered another BB with this bearing, and instead of trashing it, I decided to have a go at cleaning and repacking the bearings and reassembly. I was pleasantly surprised that both bearings could be made functional and one of them is now 'as new' and spins silent and smooth like butter. The other one is a little bit grumbly, but still very functional. In the past I've just thrown the whole BB in the trash. Bit of a shame, and a waste of money and resources.
The point here was, the 163110-2RS bearing itself might not spin and be full of grit (aka. knackered), yet may be serviced, and re-usable.
You must log in to post.
Advertisement
Advertisement
Advertisement
Advertisement
Advertisement
