Want to run 1x10, so need a chain guide (I assume). Would rather not have to fiddle around with BB mounted ones, so what seat tube mounted options are there?
The E13 one would be ideal but for the ridiculous price (£90 for a piece of moulded plastic and a seat tube clamp?). Could you bastardise a DMR chain cage to work?
N-Gear jump stop and a BBG bashguard (as they do CX ones)
Paul Components is very neat.
DMR made/make one cheeply, IME it makes a lot of noise and occasionaly jammed, but it is cheeper than the MRP/E.13 ones (which IME were pretty much silent and work).
[tongue in cheek]
But why, long after the rear mech has siezed solid, the chians been ground into a rusty pulp and the brake pads have disolved and the calliperes siezed, my front mech still works?
So far today there's been a "what flat bar CX bike" and now this thread, at what point are you nichemongers going to admit that you should have bought a bog standard XC bike like everyone else!
[/tongue in cheek]
bought a bog standard XC bike like everyone else
I've got one of those too, care to recommend some tyres for it? 
Will have look at the above, thanks.
how about one of these for the guide and something along the lines of this or this ?
It's what I plan on trying for the 29er when I gear it again.
With about 5 edits to sort out my uselessness 
Very nice Mustard, think i'll try that route, time to start cannibalising the road bike drivetrain!
oinly issue there is stopping it rotating on the mount, the price of the seat tube mounted mrp over the (already expensive) bb mounted version cracks me up, extra £30 for a clamp?
I have used the superstar one and not had issues..
Although you could use a N gauge Jump Stop ..
(apologies for non UK link I just knew this one quickly)
then a bash ring on the outer to stop chain going that way
sssimon - will it actually be getting any forces acting on it with enough torque to twist it? - serious question - I thought the same but then realised it is just stopping the chain bouncing off, not hitting rocks etc, so as long as it is nipped up tightly it shouldn't be an issue in my mind...
N-Gear Jump Stop plus Bash Guard has worked for me, for the last two seasons.
Great price and low weight on the BBG cyclocross guards, so I have just ordered one for my other cross bike.
N-Gear Jump Stop and a Salsa Crossing Guard bash guard works for me.
BBG guard and Jump stop on my all-weather commuter (similar requirement)
I also use a Superster chainguide on the Alps bike which would do the trick too, I think.
superstar (and I guess MRP) BB mounted guides don't work very well with road cranks due to the narrower axles (they don't have the 68->73 spacers) and a larger BCD. I bodged one on my spare bike but it's not great.
there are frictional forces from the chaain and as soon as it's clogged with mud, grass and god knows what else I'd want to make sure it was well anchored. Give it a go but there is a reason the mrp is held on with two bolts
You don't really need them. Run the chain short as poss, make the mech work hard.
I have only dropped the chain once in two years.
BB mounted mrp 1x don't last too long if you ride rough. 4 days at welsh trail centres saw it crack and the eventually the bottom part fell off - presumably to the chain bouncing all over the place on my mmmbop.
SS version appears to be lasting longer, also I believe they have some dt mounted versions in the pipeline and won't be the frankly ridiculous prices e13 are charging
as soon as it's clogged with mud, grass and god knows what else I'd want to make sure it was well anchored
Good point, but I don't ride 'proper' CX in deep claggy mud, more wet gritty mud which shouldn't clog too much.
You don't really need them. Run the chain short as poss, make the mech work hard.
Interesting... when I'm on the CX bike i'm rarely off the pedals or hitting anything seriously bumpy, might be worth a shot.
N-Gear Jump Stop and a Salsa Crossing Guard bash guard
But I think I'll end up putting my faith in something like this.
Cheers!
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