Argh, i told him to edit that!
Argh, i told him to edit that!
Did he interrupt you half way through telling him, and then walk off tutting ?
Too busy to change a chain? Christ man, what are you doing? It takes longer to buy one than to change it, unless you're allergic to Powerlinks.
Does "time poor" mean "bone idle"?
This has made it to Facebook 😉 good to know the spirits of those departed are still in contact 😆
MartynS - MemberHow long before we all realise in the time it's taken to argue about this on the Internet the chain could have been changed...
It could have been done in less time than the original argument! "Time poor" seems synonymous with "I waste all my time then blame other people".
right you utter bunch of retarded shitbats.
EVERYONE knows that you ROTATE a number of chains so that you don't have to change the sprocket each time you change the chain.
IDIOTS!
I say that's a bit strong 😆retarded shitbats
I have dredlocks
I think you'd have set off my fascist bully boy alarm and figured that anyone lazy enough to ask someone to fit a chain was worth winding up
Glad I dont work in a bikeshop.
Why couldnt you fit the chain?!!
I carry a splitter everywhere when on a bike.
If it wasn't slipping, why did you want to change it?
Seems to me you wanted to demonstrate capitalism to the hippies by buying a chain just because you can - and then got in a tiz because they totally owned you technically speaking.
Pigface - MemberThis has made it to Facebook good to know the spirits of those departed are still in contact
Well, we have to open the door and throw out a bit of red meat now and again, or he'd starve. 🙂
Seems to me you wanted to demonstrate capitalism to the hippies by buying a chain just because you can
Crikey.
Actually, I just wanted to get a chain fitted.
But Johnny was right - never trust a hippy.
[i]This has made it to Facebook [/i]
What does that mean? Who sees it and how?
Well, we have to open the door and throw out a bit of red meat now and again, or he'd starve.
Ahh ,the days.
I used to spanner in a rather busy trailhead workshop.We used to get one pretty much every weekend.Every now and again I'd just relent simply so they could come back an hour later and shout at me for 'ruining their ride because I did'nt set the gears up properly'.
I now have a genuine hatred of all people.
i now have a genuine hatred of all people.
Well that almost justify's all the content you posted tonight.
never trust a hippy.
Especially capitalist hippies
This has made it to Facebook
That page is very odd, just appears to be a bitter individual ranting and whining.
STW is very odd, just appears to be bitter individuals ranting and whining.
FTFY.
If you change a chain really early, ime before it reaches the recommended wear limit, you can preserve the cassette for years, but you get through a lot of chains. Which means that it is almost certainly more economical to keep the same chain and cassette even when they are both worn.
Not so. If you change the chain when it's 0.5% worn (ie it's 0.5% longer than it was - I measure 12 links and 0.5% is 1/16") then you don't have to change the cassette - a new chain works fine on the old cassette. The recommended wear limit is 1%, so you only get through twice as many chains this way. When an XT cassette is £40 and a chain £15 that seems to make economic sense to me.
But hold on. You don't actually get through twice as many chains. When a chain is 0.5% worn you've already worn through the hardened outer coating, and wear is rapid beyond that point. In reality I reckon you only get through 50% more chains at most, possibly as little as 30% more.
Of course if you use different parts then the economics may be different - but a Deore cassette is £18 and a PC951 chain £10, so I still reckon that holds. It certainly holds if you like to use XTR cassettes, even if you also run expensive hollow pin chains.
Kryton57 - Member
STW is very odd, just appears to be bitter individuals ranting and whining.
FTFY.
Pot, kettle and all that!
Regardless you earned a 😆
aracer, your calculations are fine, but the point is that once it's got to 1% and lunched the cassette, it will continue to work for ages. People are riding around on cassette/chain combos that are a year old easily. It's a noisy mess at this point, it may be inefficient (not sure) but it's not really at any greater risk of breaking so why not? It doesn't do your chainrings any favours though.
I don't measure chain wear, I look at the chain going over the cassette. A new chain binds on all the teeth as it goes round, as it starts to wear it binds on fewer. I like to change when it gets down to about 4 teeth before you can see a gap.
I once bought a bike that had a ti XTR cassette, that's when I started to really keep an eye on the chain. The cassette lasted 18 months of lots of riding, and still wasn't slipping when I changed it. It just got really noisy and rough after one change.
so why not?
because:
It doesn't do your chainrings any favours
also the shifting starts getting less precise.
I suppose it depends how much you value your drivetrain working really well. If you're not all that bothered about that on your £2000 bike then I guess you're right that it makes better economic sense to run the whole lot into the ground.
Chainrings seem to go on a long time on knackered chains. I've seen people with 2 year old never changed drivetrains that pretty much work.
Now, I have mechanical sympathy and I like my bike to work perfectly, so I keep it in good order. But if you're hard up you probably don't want to spend £50 or £100 on a £500 bike that basically works anyway.
2 year old drivetrains? Decade-old!
I generally just run both into the ground, although on the road bike I end up needing to change front rings more often as a result (doesn't seem to affect the MTB as much for some reason).