I just threw a BBMC and dual flow rebound cartridge in my sektor solo air (which, with its alu steerer, is now lighter than a revelation rlt ti, hoho).

I have two dials, compression (6 clicks) and floodgate (~18 clicks). What is a good method for finding a comfortable position to ride at that can quickly be changed to climb/descend. Two dials means a hundred odd possible configurations.

What exactly does floodgate do in comparison to each compression setting – say, by way of comparison to compression damping?

My goal is to avoid brake dive and have a controlled feel to the compression.

Bonus content: is oil tuning a valuable exercise? I’m currently running 5wt Juice Lubes in the damping cartridge. I put in what seemed like the required amount (133cc) but the rebound at its slowest still feels too fast (still takes only 1s to fully recover). Is 5wt Juice lubes too low in viscosity by comparison to 5wt Rock Shox? I weight 185lbs in gear and run about 105 psi in the solo air spring.

have a google for tim flooks’ video on setting up suspension as a good starter for 10.

1s to recover is way too slow. Imagine you are doing say 20kmh over rough ground thats 5.5 metres per second, in 5.5 metres you may encounter 5 or 25 bumps, at 1 second to return your suspension will pack down and you will get less and less travel. Damping response is speed sensitive.

I suggest you find a bit of trail you know and like, repeat about 5/10 times with the suspension settings unchanged. Then start fiddling in small steps and see if like it. Do not be fooled into thinking you can judge how your forks will perform by bouncing in the shed..

Thank you for your help, but I think you mistake me. I am just simply talking about the feel if you over-damp the rebound to the max. As in turn it all the way to slow. I was worried there wasn’t enough oil in the damper / too much.

I know how to set rebound happily. I was happy with low-speed compression.

I just do not get oil tuning or floodgate.

Ah ok sorry. But you will never need it to be 1s so I dont think you need thicker oil. If the damping is working there is defo enough oil. If there is too much then I think you might lose some travel as it may lock out. The oil just needs to tougch the bottom of the BBMC cart. I measured mine with a dipstick and compared it to the BBMC cart, and it was spot on already.
I have just fitted the BBMC to my sektor yesterday, so I’ll go for a ride later and fiddle and report back. the floodgate is a blow off valve, so if you set the compression on fully locked, the level of the floodgate will determine when it will blow through the lockout (how hard you have to hit it to get it to blow off). Personally I doubt I’ll use it, as I doubt I’ll ever use the lockout, I just wanted the BBMC for better compression control..

PS where did you get the dual flow rebound from?

The compression dial essentially controls how much resistance there is to compression (controls speed of compression) while the floodgate provides a force sensitive platform (i.e over a certain size impact force the floodgate opens up and you get full movement at the rate set by the compression dial). The more floodgate you set the bigger the whack needed to get it moving. The combination of the two allows you to set the fork up how you want. Fully open compression doesn’t allow the flood gate to have any effect. It is important to note that the floodgate doesn’t just act when full compression damping is on. It’s effects are just more pronounced. Air pressure will also affect it and controls how hard your spring is.

I run mine with 2 clicks of compression and adjust the floodgate until it feels right (different bikes seem to require different settings). It’s fairly simple to set up, just pick a bit of trail and ride it with different setting until it feels right!

read this,

http://forums.mtbr.com/1498056-post13.html

I use setup 3. I reckon you could run the floodgate a bit more open on BBMC than on a normal Motion Control fork (to make use of the shim stack).

Compression – low speed, shift in body weight, pumping, pedaling. More=less resistance to shift in body weight, less=vice-versa.

Floodgate – Lockout threshold when in lockout mode, when not locked out, the point at which damping is transferred from low speed circuit to high speed circuit.

The low speed compression is controlled by the covering of ports, when too much oil flows (high speed), the low speed is overwhelmed, the high speed circuit blows open (controlled by flood gate), you have a shim stack regulating the high speed flow.

So you can tune low speed and point at which high speed kicks in, but will need to modify shim stack to alter high speed response.

First thing, whay % sag are you running? To attain the set-up you want, play around. But i would start with atleast quarter from open compression, this puts extra force on the gate, so atleast half gate so your high speed doesn’t kick in too soon and you lose your support.

PS – you should definitely get correct rebound speed, it sound like 1s if it is, is far too slow.

I did not realise the floodgate had an effect when not locked out, thanks for that nugget of info.

^yarp, should also clarify that on MOCO DNA, i haven’t had a look, so have a feeling it’s different, though can confirm it’s different in mission control, though there is still some interaction.

More=less resistance to shift in body weight, less=vice-versa.

Should read as “More = more resistance to shift in body weight, less=vice-versa.”

yeah mines moco dna, I shall test the effect of floodgate later. .

That’s a wonderful link; really explains it well.

Again; I’m not setting my rebound to have it take 1s to reload, I’m merely saying that it FEELS like there is a compression problem BECAUSE at the HIGHEST POSSIBLE SETTING, the rebound FEELS TOO FAST STILL. I expected, at the highest rebound damping setting, it to take like 2s to recover. It dDID before I changed the cartridge.

Toys19 – I bought a 2010 Revelation Team (basically a 2011 RLT Ti) secondhand on ebay with slightly worn stanchions for 80 quid marked as “spares or repair”. I took the for apart (the oil was so black and dirty it was vile), cleaned it up, found no damage to the internals at all, and swapped the moco cartridge and the rebound damper out for the one from my sektor solo air. This was a pretty good deal as the dual flow circuit is £65 new itself.

I considered putting the dual air spring in also, but this way I can sell the second fork which is now a used and serviced and brand new damper Revelation “Race” – working fine, but just a little wear on the uppers.

I think I read loco on here before saying that moco dna vs moco is no difference, but moco blackbox / moco dna blackbox vs normal is a big difference. He also said that the biggest upgrade you can do for a sektor is to put a dual flow rebound circuit in.