I’m trying to re-fit the threaded project 2s to my Dad’s old ’93 Explosif to revert it to its previous form. I bought a Token threaded headset:

Token 1 1/8″ threaded headset

I’ve got the cups in the frame and inserted the forks, I’ve threaded the first part of the headset onto the forks but there’s not enough thread left on the fork to thread the top nut onto it.

So either… the stack height of the headset is too big and I have to find a headset with a smaller stack height, this is proving tough, stack height measurements seem fairly elusive.

… or I’m not putting the headset together properly, one thing that’s suggesting this to me is the space between the crown race and the lower cup, it doesn’t look right, it seems a bit too big. I’m wondering if I’ve maybe not assembled it properly, I can’t find instructions (exploded diagram) anywhere.

I’m not familiar with all this threaded stuff it’s all a bit before my time so I’m hoping some of the more senior on here can help me out with any suggestions!

Thanks
Mat

What headset was on the bike previously?

Just sounds like the steerer tube was cut short enough for the last headset but that’s too short for the new one.

Threaded headset works just the same as threadless ones – just the tensioning/locking method at the top that is different.

slainte ❓ rob

The Impact headset that would have been on there originally is a low-stack headset, and that one you’ve got there doesn’t look to be particularly low-stack despite its claims. You’ll be wanting an Impact or Control Center ideally (good luck) but there are a few other low-stack threaded headsets which IIRC will fit, eg the Onza Mongo II (again, good luck). There may be others. If you get properly stuck then don’t forget you can freely mix and match upper/lower halves of headsets (and the lower half needn’t be from a threaded set), so you can try digging in the LBS’s spares box for lower-stack bits.

Gap between the crown and lower cup? You’ve whacked the crown race down good and hard, I presume?

I think the old threaded headset was a shimano that’s about as much as I can recall, it came off the bike a good 6 years ago. I thought given my hoarding tendencies I’d kept it in a spares box but seemingly not.

I guess now you mention it rob nothing looks too different, just in a bit of a flap because I offered up the forks and they came up short, I guess just the same as cutting a steerer on non-threaded too short (sounds stupidly obvious typing)

The crown race is a split job and it seemed to go on all too easy! The gap is between the race and the bottom cup though. I like the idea of mixing and matching the bottom cups.

A few things for me to work with there anyway, cheers!

Any pics?

IIRC Ritchey are low stack and cheap…

I have an old shimano stlx headset on my Kona and P2 forks.

I’ve always used Shiamno STX on my old Specialized Rockhopper. Get them while you can

you need to get a Tange headset – as these were a common fit on old mtb and are low stack

http://www.roseversand.com/article/tange-cartridge-headset-31921/aid:32003

someone had a NOS XT headset on ebaynthat did not sell:
http://tinyurl.com/bohrfo2

OR you could cut the frame head tube down using a headtube cutter/facer..