Just got a new frame that has a integrated tapered head tube, and came with a headset.

I need to get a new fork for it and looking at the SID XX’s Evans have, the straight 1/8 steerer is £120 cheaper than the tapered version, and that’s not to be sniffed at.

I was given a reducing bush but a)I’m not totally convinced about the whole set up and b) the 1.5 crown race with the current headset doesn’t sit flush with the reducer bush.

Obviously I’d need a 1 1/8 crown race if I went that route but I still can’t see it being a particularly weather proof interface.

What dot the STW massif think?

Anyone?

On my Hope setup, the reducer bush sits on the crown, and the 1.5 race sits on the bush. Plenty strong and stiff on my AM bike, never had any problems with it.

If you get the proper bits for it, it’ll be fine.

I’ve got a non-tapered fork in the tapered head tube of my FSR as the original frame didn’t have a tapered tube, whereas the warranty replacement did.
The shop sorted it all out, so I am not 100% sure what’s in there but it works fine.

I think my mate has done the same when he fitted his non tapered Rev to his carbon 456. And it works fine.

As above, I ran a similar setup on an Anthem for a while using a different crown race after Giant swapped my 2010 frame for a 2011 under warranty. I’m still alive*

* At the time of writing

Cane Creek do mix and match components so you should be able to purchase the lower bearing and matching crown race only. Explanations here:

http://www.canecreek.com/tech-headsets?view=standards

There’s a useful product finder on the same site

Cheers fellas

The headset is a Canecreek and if I put the bottom race on the crown, it’s a nice snug fit

Adding the reducer bush comes up with

Which when plonked on the crown race, leaves a gap of at least 1mm for crud to get in to.

That definitely isn’t right / good.

Cant comment on the bush as I’ve never used one. But that blue seal looks like a Cane Creek crown race (well it looks like the one I have). If so you can get a 1 1/8 – 1.5 converter crown race for £10 that works the same as the original:

http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/cane-creek-crown-item157055.html

What frame is it btw?

Coulda

The blue seal is on the CC crown race.

Could just run the reducer bush on the fork without the bottom race? – Not something I’ve ever done but then I’ve never been in such a position.

Frame is a Devinci Dexter – Taking a complete punt on this!

if this bothers you, Hope PicNMix (i use D) is a single piece, so no reducer shim/bush, was surprised about this when i got it. they are also well sealed and stainless bearing-ed.
edit: i.e. a smaller bearing, same size as upper, which some may see as worse!

I think youve actually got a reducer crown race there (just there’s no seal on it) – not a bush. If it’s 1 1/8 on the inside and sits on the bearing race then I’d use it on its own. Or get the CC one above with a seal.

# Edit – if its a bush it would fit (as in the photos above): bearing, existing crown race, bush. ie the bush would go on the fork first, then the crown race.

dunno what your headtube size is, but here’s a Hope lower D in EG. was meaning to post anyway ‘cos i’d never seen this before. about as neat and low as you’ll get, not sure if you want a slightly steeper head angle like i’ve got though!

the black bit just above the silver crown race is a rubber seal.
same reason btw: straight steerer revs much cheaper from Merlin, and i’ve no worries about this failing. should i : 😳

Managed to speak with the shop again and…..

Silver bush/reducer onto the fork first. Crownrace with blue seal on top of that and then the bottom bearing will sit on that once assembled.

Obvious when you think about it 🙄

Will still leave a bit exposed to the elements but the cost saving on the fork isn’t to be sniffed at.

Cheers for the help guys

Yup, that’s how my Hope setup is assembled. Just make sure that everything is seated properly and the seals should do their job nicely. The stack height is slightly more than a tapered setup (and not quite as neat), but it seems to do the job perfectly well in practise.

I was just going to say you have it got it assembled wrong in your picture so yes you may well die, but not if you build it right!

Reducer on fork
Then crown race with seal on reducer
Then into bearing

After all my fretting this became moot when Evans swapped me some tapered 120 XX SIDS in exchange for 480 of the Queen’s English pounds.

Now of course as it’s a Bank Holiday it’s now plissn down so I’m unlikely to get the new wagon built for a test ride today.