I got hold of the new stanton slackline bike at cwm carn on saturday. This was running 140mm floats up front, 1×9, 45mm stem and nice sunline 711 bars.
The bike I test rode was 16.5″ and it felt perfect for me (5’9 32″ leg). All i can say is I love this bike and I really, really want one!
It climbs really well although what I did find is due to all the singlespeeding this year I always got out of the saddle and attacked climbs rather than spin.
Normally I take the swoopy section at the top of cwm carn but this time I decided to take the bermy/jumpy section (which has been redesigned a bit since i was there last). This bike cornered like it was on rails. IT gave me so much confidence in berms. I don’t often get that much ‘air’ as i panic a bit on table tops but this felt so comfortable. I had a massive grin at the bottom of that section so I decided go up and to ride it 3 times.
The bike seem to have a really short chain stays/short wheel base so it felt much more manoeuvrable. In comparison my enduro is super stable at speed but doesn’t feel as flickable. It certainly felt faster over the terrain at cwm carn.
it was a nice change to ride in flat pedals as well.
So all in all. I’m selling my enduro frame and getting one of these built up.
Also the guys at stanton are in Bristol so local to me.
(Sorry this isn’t up to scratch with other peoples review of bikes on here but I tried
I rode a blue pig for 1 descent in the mednips so very hard to compare. It honestly felt like it had more travel up front. As soon as i jumped on the bike it just felt right (i normally moan about bikes not having the right TT length, wrong stem, seat too far forward)
Eh? 5.6lbs is about right for a steel frame for jumps. I think my bmx frame is about that. But because its made from 853 its expensive so only the old stw mincers who can’t jump will be able to afford it
Ahh, so if it was lighter you couldn’t trash it faster no?
Obviously could, door that way
Excellent choice of typo there It’s a reasonable weight for the job it’s designed for- a little heavier than the equivalent sized BFe I think but in the right ballpark. Obviously lighter steel HTs exist but it’s a tradeoff of strength, and for some jobs you want a very strong frame not just a strong one.
So, with all your frame building experience, how would you propose to make a frame constructed from 853 lighter?
The Sherpa is a trail/XC specific frame utilising single butted Reynolds 853 tubing.
Use double butted tubing for starters, allowing the wall thickness to be thinner (making it lighter), whilst still retaining strength. But what would I know.
If it were aluminium you would be right. Aluminium possess the shortest fatigue life of any material used to manufacture bike frames, with a typical life expectancy of 5-10 years. Steel on the other hand lasts a lot longer.
Steel vs Aluminum
The situation with aluminum is even more pronounced. The “identical” aluminum frame would be 1/3 as stiff as steel, roughly half as strong, and 1/3 the weight. Such a frame would be quite unsatisfactory. That’s why aluminum frames generally have noticeably larger tubing diameters and thicker-walled tubing. This generally results with frames of quite adequate stiffness, still lighter than comparable steel ones.
Large diameter thin-wall tubing.
The advantages of larger tubing diameter can, theoretically, be applied to steel construction, but there’s a practical limit. You could build a steel frame with 2-inch diameter tubing, and it would be stiffer than anything available–indeed, stiffer than anybody needs. By making the walls of the tubes thin enough, you could make it very, very light as well.
Why don’t manufacturers do this? Two reasons.
The thinner the walls of the tubing, the harder it is to make a good joint. This is one reason for butted tubing, where the walls get thicker near the ends, where the tubes come together with other tubes.
In addition, if the walls get too thin, the tubes become too easy to dent, and connection points for bottle cages, cable stops, shifter bosses and the like have inadequate support.
“They”, as in Stanton, Cotic, Dialled etc – who you seem to be complaining produce heavy frames
Considering an 853 Kona Explosif frame weighs 4.2 lbs (1.4 lbs lighter than the Slackline), and they have been making steel hardtail frames for much longer than anyone you mention, yes I do think they are heavy.
flow, is a thinner guage steel tube more susceptable to fatigue than a thicker gauge tube of exactly the same material in the same application?
No obviously not, but you have to pedal the thing its not a motorbike, weight is important. Especially when making a hardtail as the only things you have to play with to make it ride well are weight, material and geometry.
I don’t know about that. Back in the day before all these stupid bike categories, any hardtail (GT Zaskar, Kona Explosif etc) was used for that exact purpose.
“In addition, if the walls get too thin, the tubes become too easy to dent, and connection points for bottle cages, cable stops, shifter bosses and the like have inadequate support.”
The Slackline and BFe are only partly 853, the remaining tubes made out of a heavier steel to keep the price of the frames affordable. I’m sure the 853 Kona is lighter, but I’m sure it is far, far more expensive.
Like I said before “There has to be a compromise somewhere”