I’ve seen The Day of the Jackal.
Foxy makes it look a breeze.
I need to tidy up the landy roof and I have four new doors that need priming and painting. Im getting a quote from a local paintshop, but It’s going to be difficult convincing them that this is for an agricultural finish, not concourse… and that I want to do as much prep work as possible to keep the cost down.
Spray cans will cost an arm and a leg.
Ive seen this on ebay for £150. Primers, cleaners, paints, 2K lacquers, thinners, spray gun etc. And I can probably get hold of a compressor from a mate.
I’ve had a fly land on a bonnet and then try and swim his way out of my lovely lacquer. His legs and wings came off in the process.
This is in a proper pukka spray booth.
What kind of crap do you think will land in your paint?!
Sure ,its doable but will look bloody awful.
If you don’t care what it looks like ,brush it on.
Its all in the prep work, when you apply paint make sure you do it evenly and I am tempeted to say lightly but that is the wrong word.
Can you build a temp spray booth, painted a mates transit in a silage clamp once, came out ok. Wouldnt win any prizes but was sericeable no runs or waves.
When I had to paint a van with some synthetic paint it looked spot on when i left it. The next morning i had a run that was 15 foot long.
My finest moment.
In 2k paint there is isocynate. I used to work as a painter. Without airfed or at least normal mask and extraction you risk your life. Plus it’s not as easy as it looks
I need to tidy up the landy roof and I have four new doors that need priming and painting. Im getting a quote from a local paintshop, but It’s going to be difficult convincing them that this is for an agricultural finish, not concourse… and that I want to do as much prep work as possible to keep the cost down.
Spray cans will cost an arm and a leg.
Have you considered spray-on vinyl?
Just done the boot lid of my MR2 which was a mis-match for the rest of the car. £35 all in, no prep needed other than wiping down the old paint with prep cloths. No polishing at the end either cos it’s a matt finish. Don’t like it? Peel it off! Easy.
if you’re not going back to metal do you still need a primer? Dumb Qu, but I have no idea. That’s what you lot are for.
john – I did consider a vinyl wrap but it looked a bit expensive as I would have to get someone in to do it.
I think I need a tougher finish though, and Im guessing it’s not going to be cheap if I need to do 100 sq ft.
if you’re not going back to metal do you still need a primer? Dumb Qu, but I have no idea. That’s what you lot are for.
It will probably “key” ok without primer but I would test an area first
Its much harder than it looks as it runs easier than you think. you could [ ie i have] easily mess it up.
Lots of thin coats would be my advice
i would hand paint [rollers] it with boat paint personally – you will get a shiny glossy surface [from a few feet away] with a sort of orange peel affect close up – the later depends on what your metal is like in the first place
Yep – Mines a bonatti grey, but Im thinking of going to a plain white roof and doors. Im not painting the bulkhead or the B pillars so they’ll be galv coloured.
That leaves the bonnet, wings and rear tub in bonatti until I do something about them. But as you say, rollered hammerite might be the solution then. How far to key it first though?
As mentioned above Rustoleum rollered on and flatted will look fine, the VW Syncro guys use it a lot. I painted an old VW Bay in yellow Smoothrite, looked good for a year and then faded & looked crap, couldn’t buff it up to a shine again. Did hold the non rusty metal together for a year though! 😀
400 is quite rough. I’d say 500, even 800 to finish off before painting. If you go through to bare alloy anywhere you should etch prime it to key it to the alloy. As said, use a simulated mohair roller for doing gloss paint & it will come out fine. Once it’s hard, not just dry but hard you can flat it dull with 1200 grade paper & polish up. If your doing this I’d get some cutting compound. T-Cut is ok to finish off but you can get some that’s slightly grittier so to speak. Even brush painting can be flatted back to a perfectly smooth finish if you put the work in. Get a “tack-rag” for the final wipe off before the paint goes on.
I’ve sprayed plenty of cars over the years. Cellulose “knacker-lacquer” is dead easy. Plenty of thin coats. Don’t worry too much about a good finish straight from the gun. Building a spray booth is fine in theory but in reality you’ll be choked out in minutes. Not too bad with cellulose but do that with 2-pack & you could kill yourself.
At this time of year you only get a few good dry hours at best each day if your spraying outside. Any moisture will balls it up. I sprayed an XR3i once, on a freezing cold day. The runs were that bad it looked like a bodykit.
I think rollering and finishing is looking the most sensible for the roof. Especially as I know you can get matching hammerite in a can to do the tricky bits that the roller wont.
Not sure about the doors though.