Stoner, I think all the work you have put into the landie deserves a bit better than the roller & hammerite.

Takisawa speaks sense about being able to retreive even the worst of painting but its time consuming & not even sure you will get the hammerite to cut back properly it also takes an age to get properly hard, keep the hammerite for towbars & the like.

Stick with proper 2k paint, 800 grit finish is the roughest you want to spray top coat onto, let it dry, really dry then you can 1000 the rough bits where your spraying didnt go quite to plan, 1200 the rest & you should be able to go straight to a polish, maybe a little T cutting before hand.

Your white idea sounds good, hides quite a lot of sins, however again after all that work & the stripped down condition you have it too now, why not just do the lot.

T cutting

🙂 This is a tractor, not a Shelsey Cobra!

Anyway, I’ll see what the paintshop says. The Mrs seems to think I should pay for a pro spray. Im not sure she’ll stick to that when she finds out how much more pocket money my “cheap and cheerful toy” is going to cost her…

She has seen the effort put in so far I guess.

Paint it yourself, with what you have done until now, the painting is the bit that makes it even more satisfying. Depends on you time constraints I guess.

Tinsy – watch the rustoleum video and look at the results. I used it on my VW Syncro, it’s black too. Never going to be concourse but it looks spot on for the use to which it is put.

Roger, agreed it does look good…. Still might as well just spray it though same process for all the inbetween stages really.

edit, assuming you can aquire some budget spray kit.

As an aside have a look at the 50 dollar paint job website. Basically just a zillion coats of thinned hammerite and a thousand years of sanding!

If you arent fussed on finish, spray painting is a lot of faff.

Rustoleum or even 2pack rollered on would do. Just prep it, be careful not to go to bare metal. if you do go through i wouldnt bother with etch as it’ll do more harm then good as it’ll get under the surrounding paint.

cheers for all the pointers guys. Ive managed to find a local paintshop who understand what Im after (i.e. not a concourse finish, just a good solid, well lacquered paint job) and they will do it a a labour cost of around £40 ph + materials. Since Im going to do all the prep work, that should keep the cost down loads as they will do the whole lot in two batches in the painting booth. First lot is now just about ready to take down to them.

I missed this earlier.

I’ve had good results using Tractol synthetic enamel. It’s used for painting farm implements and comes in lots of agricultural manufacturers and Land Rover colours. It sprays easily without the need for air fed masks. I used it to spray my IIA. It held a good gloss for about five years then went a little flatter, but it was exposed daily to Orkney salt air.

Ive parked the idea of painting large panels at home as I dont think I can do it in a dry, warm, dust & bug free environment. Im doing the little things and internal bits like floor panel and seat box myself, but that’s ok in the workshop in small doses.

I reupholstered the second row seat bases last week and have traded fitting a new bog and basin at my folks for mum upholstering the seat backs (stitching needed).