Whis oil does the Borg Singletrack collective use on theirs?

Had a look around, some folks recommend Danish Oil, others Linseed and others to numerous to mention.

I use danish, but take 4 or 5 coats, using a scourer sponge in between to knock back.

dont sand the wood with too fine a grain beforehand or youll close the grain off and the oil wont penetrate

Used to use Danish Oil on our Iroko worktop which worked fine – just reapply to any worn bits as and when.

I think if you use LInseed oil, then it needs to be boiled linseed, otherwise it will be sticky.

OS (But Stoner knew I’d say that) 🙂

Im toying with using some left over OSMO hardwaxoil on a high water area next to the sink which the Danish doesnt seem to be protecting quite so well this time round.

Hmmm…the draining board is it?

Kind of. Its dirty pots before the Dishwasher. gets splash from the sink/wet pots put there temporarily.

Said to Mrs S Id tile it instead but she wants it to stay wood. So will knock it back and try to build up plenty of OSMO on it.

So will knock it back and try to build up plenty of OSMO on it.

There’s a thin oil you can get which will penetrate more deeply than the HW Oil which you could use for the first few coats before building up a few layers of HW Oil. Either that, or buy some OS Brush Cleaner (which is also a thinners), thin the oil out a bit (in a glass jar), wait for it to settle for a day or two, then just dip your rag or brush into the top.

Oooh, they’re now doing a one specially for worktops (I suspect it’ll be the same as the floor stuff though)

Currently using Danish oil but it’s due for re-oiling (last done 3+ years ago) and might try this http://www.screwfix.com/p/ronseal-anti-bacterial-worktop-oil-1ltr/92309 or one of the Osmo oils next time to see if it lasts longer near the cooker where some aggressive cleaning products have splashed the surface and dissolved the finish. Hint: don’t let oven cleaner get near your wooden worktop.

I’d bet a tenner that the Osmo stuff will be better than the Ronseal stuff.

“anti-bacterial” is probably bollocks anyway…

Oh, and for t’others, how finely you sand the wood depends on the species but as Stoner said above, certainly no finer than 120 grit for temperate hardwoods (Oak, beech, maple etc) and no finer than 80 grit for tropicals -iroko, etc. If you sand too finely, you’ll, in effect, “seal” the timber and the oil will only penetrate to a too shallow depth.

A good idea is to sand, then vacuum the surface with a brush attachment, then tag-rag it with a white spirit soaked cloth (you’ll be surprised at how much dust still comes off). You’ll have to wait a while for the white spirit to dry off, but it’s worth the effort.

wood is “anti bacterial” 😉

My bro-in-law is a cabinet maker and also sells timber, he says any oil is fine.

I agree about the silver – probably a load of rubbish; I was about to say that I’d bet the Ronseal was a lot cheaper than the Osmo but a quick Google search seems to indicate that it isn’t. Maybe I’ll go for the Osmo, if it’s anything like the stuff we use on our oak staircase it should last well.

wood is “anti bacterial”

If it’s well oiled the antibacterial-ness is covered up. Maybe we should all just use bare wood and go for the rustic look. 🙂

the stuff we use on our oak staircase

Someone else will testify to this. 8)

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I think you can worry too much. We wipe over boiled linseed oil once every 6 months or so, and leave it overnight to dry properly. We always get a good, tough finish that repels water really well. I’m sure that the other oils mentioned would work just as well.

In use rustins Danish oil on mine … It’s seems fine so far

OT but what should I use for walnut surfaces?

I’ve been using ‘ULTRA work surface sealant’ that costs £25 for a 350ml tin, its a natural product that contains sunflower oil, soybean oil, carnauba wax etc??? Only issue is that we find ourselves needing to reapply a few times a year.

Any ideas?