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[Closed] Shifter to dropper remote conversion?

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[#8466468]

Has anyone converted their front shifter to a dropper remote and could tell me what I need to do ?
I'll be using a shimano shifter if that makes any difference.

Thanks


 
Posted : 23/04/2017 4:34 pm
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Thanks for that , just what I needed .


 
Posted : 23/04/2017 4:50 pm
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Sort of tried it myself on a knackered 10speed XT shifter to put on the singlespeed but it turns out it was so knackered it wouldn't work as as dropper remote. 👿
Wasn't too hard if you following the instructions in the link, be careful with the very small circlip as it could be easy to lose 😳


 
Posted : 23/04/2017 4:56 pm
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Thanks for the heads up , I'll give it a try tomorrow


 
Posted : 23/04/2017 9:36 pm
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Thanks for the prompt OP, I have meant to have a crack at this bodge for months, using an old LX shifter in the garage.

I finally Cracked it open and got a bit Dremel happy this evening, just installed it on the bike and it's about 200% better than the crankbros lever it replaced in terms of smoothness and mechanical advantage, It's operating an old X fusion HiLo.

I took pictures as I went, I might pop them up tomorrow...


 
Posted : 23/04/2017 10:17 pm
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Nice one cookeaa, pics would be helpful.

Thanks


 
Posted : 24/04/2017 9:13 am
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Right then, here it is in all its glory:

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

Shimano SL-M580 LH shifter, sans indicator window, I bought it used 9~10 years ago for a build, so it's probably 12-15 years old (guess)...

Undid the three screws on the underside and the whole thing opens up nice and easy:

[img] [/img]

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Next locate the pawl mechanism to retain/release the cable for each shift, it's just above my thumb in this picture:

[img] [/img]

My original plan was to grind the head off the pin the pawls pivot on to pull that apart and extract the pawls, but having ground the head off I found the pin was very securely pressed into the top plate:

[img] [/img]

Instead I attacked the pawls directly, I was able to grind the head off the spring that operates the cable retention mechanism shown here:

[img] [/img]

Once the spring was gone the pawl ceased to operate and the shifter was now simply pulling and returning as desired.

For good measure (and I didn't get a decent picture of this) I flipped the pawl round and ground off its face/tooth profile so the ratcheting mechanism could never catch on it again.

I spent a good few minutes trying to get the lever to catch working it back/fourth and seeing if the pawls could be persuaded to cause a problem.

Once satisfied that was working, I used a slitting disc to take the release lever arm off and ground the stub back to a nice smooth(ish) finish:

[img] [/img]

I blew the whole thing out with compressed air, and stuffed it full of marine grease, more to keep the moisture out than lubricate anything:

[img] [/img]

Reassembled it and weighed it along with the CB lever it's replacing:

[img] [/img]

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And fitted:

[img] [/img]

Works much better, and I think I can live with the 75g weight penalty....

Dead simple really if you have a Dremel and an all but worthless old shifter... Don't think I'd want to attack a nice shiny XT like this TBH...

I did also start wondering if you could do something similar with a Gripshifter, twisting LH back to drop might work quite well...


 
Posted : 24/04/2017 7:58 pm
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Did mine this afternoon , works great and a really light action , very pleased with it. I think Jerome clementz has used a grip shifter for this in the past.


 
Posted : 24/04/2017 8:22 pm
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Just looked it up, turns out (2013/14 at least) Clementz was using the Gripshift to change travel modes on his jekyll's rear shock, with a regular reverb remote just inboard:

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 24/04/2017 9:02 pm
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Ah right, I knew he'd used a grip shift for something, lol.
Might try that on my jekyll.


 
Posted : 24/04/2017 9:19 pm