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  • Selvedge denim
  • tails
    Free Member

    I bought some of those nudie selvedge denim jeans today mainly due to the crotch keeps going on my 501s and partly as my mate used work for them and go on about how great they are.

    Who else does this type of denim, howies, paul smith???? and can it be bought with a black dye as they all seem to be dark indigo.

    chakaping
    Free Member

    I have no idea what selvedge denim is, but I got a pair of them Nudie jeans (taupe coloured) for £28 in the Liberty sale and they're really nice.

    Just thought I'd say.

    tails
    Free Member

    £28

    😳 Still i'm not much of a sale person, to busy although i did brave the levi's sale couple years back got some £90 jeans for not very much which were nice.

    dogthomson
    Full Member

    I've had 3 pairs of Regular Ralfs and they've all worn out on the crotch way before it was time to wash them. 🙁

    tails
    Free Member

    oh joy expensive 501s, i bought the easy emil type.

    CountZero
    Full Member

    I've got a feeling that selvedge denim is only done in indigo. It's due to the type of loom that the cloth is woven on, IIRC, and most of those type of looms were bought up by the Japanese 'cos they're fanatical about retro type clothing, Buzz Rickson gear being a good example.

    Coyote
    Free Member

    've had 3 pairs of Regular Ralfs and they've all worn out on the crotch way before it was time to wash them.

    Erm… your laundry interval being?

    tomzo
    Free Member

    Nah selvedge comes in, well, i know it comes in black as well, albeit indigo is more popular and common. Other denim brands:
    acne
    evisu
    naked and famous
    cheap monday

    Not sure if they all do selvedge but most do raw denim which is what I like.

    dogthomson
    Full Member

    You don't wash dry denim. Not for a long time anyways.

    tails
    Free Member

    Not sure if they all do selvedge but most do raw denim which is what I like.

    Whats the difference tomzo? i found a good website but can't find it now, and you sound like you know your brands. The lad in giulio recommended the acne i just did not want to spend acne money, plus all these different cuts are confusing now.

    sq225917
    Free Member

    Selvedge is just a way of looping back the warp at the edge of the fabric to produce a self-finished fabric that needs no closing stitch. go look at curtain fabric on the roll in your local John Lewis, that's all selvedge.

    Typically it only comes in yarn dyed fabric, not post dyed, as you wouldn't see it. In yarn dyed fabric the lighter coloured/white warp fibre is used to form the selvedge and gives it the characteristic tape edge look and feel.

    Don't mistake selvedge for overlocked finished denim, the effect is similar, stiff flat seam, but one will fray the other cannot.

    There a little Jap brand that does selvedge on both inseam and outseams, which means they weave the fabric in the shape of the finished garment- that's hardcore, imagine how time consuming that is, they can only make one panel at a time so have to reload the loom four times for each pair of jeans as opposed to rattling off huge long sheets 1 pair of jeans wide.

    Selvedge
    http://prepidemic.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/selvedge.jpg

    fake selvedge
    http://i6.ebayimg.com/02/s/000/77/3d/a251_1.JPG

    overlocked
    http://www.redmonkeyjeans.co.uk/rmc_8.jpg

    tails
    Free Member

    thanks sq225917, so what are the brands to look out for, and when did the japanese get so good at jeans they are a US product surely, or a indian/chinese cotton producing country.

    gamo
    Free Member

    Here you go nudie fan site
    http://www.mynudies.com/
    plenty info and forums.

    woffle
    Free Member

    What I'd term as 'decent' selvedge brands include: Edwin, Sugar Cane, Studio D'Artisan (french and very good but not sure whether all their jeans are still made in Europe, I think some are being made in China now), Iron Heart, McCoys etc. Some of them are pretty niche and they're all going to be expensive. A lot of these companies specialize wholly in denim and obsess about reproducing denim from the 1940's and 1950's.

    APC, Nudie, Acne and Cheap Monday etc have also got selvedge jeans in their ranges that will be better value for money. Perhaps one of the best bargains for selvedge is Uniqlo too – their slim japanese denim is pretty good, especially for @£50. If you've got a little more then I'd also recommend Albam clothing – their standard japanese jeans are a decent weight, well made and a good, not-too-loose fit.

    tails
    Free Member

    well made and a good, not-too-loose fit.

    by not to loose, you don't mean skinny jeans as i'm no fan of those, i like a 501 cut without much leg taper and thanks for your help. 🙂

    martyntr
    Free Member

    Edwin = The Don when it comes to Selvedge denim….. rainbow selvedge tape IIRC…. V.V Nice…

    For me it's Carhartt all the way…. They just last and last and last…. V.good value for money and a great fit to boot…… 🙂

    warton
    Free Member

    another for edwin, got a couple of edwin selvedge and a couple of Nudies, and an evisu pair from, ooh 12 years ago…

    one thing, as people have said, try and stay off washing them for as long as possible, and after that first wash keep from washing them all the time. my original Nudies, which I've had for 5 years(and currently wearing) have been washed maybe 10 times. my latest pair of edwins aren't going to be washed till they're a year old

    tails
    Free Member

    just had a look on the edwin site, nice jeans but why make jeans so confusing. so many styles. also uniqlo sell merino.

    Midnighthour
    Free Member

    I can smell you guys from here!

    Freezie
    Free Member

    Selvage does not mean good quality. Got a pair of Nudie Average Joe dry selvage, the quality of the denim is shite, and they use poor quality synthetic indigo which seriously bleeds out when you wash em which I did after about 5 months of wear. Paying for a label name there.

    I have got a pair of Studio D'artisan 103's, real deal made in japan, 15oz shrink to fit denim, quality is superb, can't wait to see what they look like after a year of wear.

    I think Samurai, Skull (Jap brands) do black but they are expensive to get get hold of.

    Freezie
    Free Member

    Woffle – Studio D'Artisan are japanese

    tails
    Free Member

    i had a look at the studio d artisan jeans, surely having jeans that shrink in the wash is a thing of the past. Who wants to think I'll buy a 36 inch instead of my normal 32, however nice they look. I hope my nudies are better than your ones, i like the sound of the edwins though.

    Freezie
    Free Member

    Doubt it tails, after getting into Jap repro denim theres no way I'd ever buy jeans off the high street ever again.

    tails
    Free Member

    Doubt it tails, after getting into Jap repro denim theres no way I'd ever buy jeans off the high street ever again.

    does the fabric actually feel thicker on the japanese jeans, as from your comments a felt my nudie and 501 and to my horror the 501 felt thicker 😡 but perhaps the weave is more important to longevity than the thickness.

    Freezie
    Free Member

    Depends on the weight of the fabric, my SDA's (15oz) are heavier than my old nudies which are probably around 12oz.

    Shuttle looming is a more time-consuming weaving process that produces denim of a tighter weave resulting in a heavier weight fabric that lasts. Wiki 🙂

    Anyway if you check out sites like superfuture/supertalk/superdenim theres good info and pics of peoples jeans

    Check out: Blue in Green NY

    I bought my SDA's from superdenim.co.uk – got some good gear there

    CountZero
    Full Member

    Was just having a bit of a google search for selve edge denim and there's a place where you can get custom made to measure jeans for $91, which looks pretty good to me, considering Skull and various others are going for over $300 in America.

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