I’m looking to do a decent amount of road TTs this year (flat 10s and hilly 25s) and wondering about how best to improve my setup, given I lack the funds to nip out and buy a Cervelo P3 and a set of Lightweights.

Currently riding an older aero-ish Madone 5.9 with Zipp 404s, regular drops with clip on tri-bars, 54t big ring and my normal cheapo riding helmet that I use for pretty much everything. Don’t think there’s that much weight to be lost from the bike without some serious expenditure.

I’m new to TT’ing – I do a flat 10 mile TT in 23 mins, wondering if I can make it nearer 22 this season, thinking of trying to do as many as one a week. I know positioning is probably more important than any kit consideration, and this is something I am working on, but I do have a new kit itch.

Given my wheels are OK, I’m thinking that an aero helmet is probably the most logical step. Does anyone have any recommendations here, or is it best to try as many as I can to find the most comfortable?

Also wondering about bars – is it worth changing my drops & clip ons setup for a proper aero bar with extensions, bar end shifter etc, given that this is also my ‘good’ road (ie race) bike? Is frequent swapping over between the two just a world of pain? I figure all I should need to do is keep a cable set on each then just remove/cable up as necessary. I’m quite happy setting mechs up.

Guess what I’m trying to work out is whether or not the advantage offered by a TT bar over a drops/clip-ons setup is worth the hassle of swapping them over on a weekly basis.

Wow, that was quite a bit of rambling.

Any help appreciated, cheers!

In my opinion if the Madone fits you as a road bike the top tube will be too long to make much of a tt setup with a full on front end strapped on. Also, difficult to say for sure without a photo, but with a road bike setup (more sat up – can’t get the tip of your hat to touch the small of your back) the advantages of a pointy hat are pretty minimal.

I’d also say, unless there is someone you are after beating, what are you proving to yourself by buying a bit of extra speed – although I appreciate this is the tester way – I’ve been there myself! Just get fit(ter), and knock the time down by knocking out more power in a more consistent way. As you see your results improve you will know it’s all you.

For me the best thing I spent money on to get faster was a powermeter – made my training better, analysis of last week’s race better and helped me judge my pace far more consistently. Not a cheap option though.

Getting fitter is the best way to improve times 😉

What flip said, you already have a pretty fast bike, not much time ot be shaved off there.

I’d rather watch paint dry myself.

Firend has an Orbea Orca he uses for TT’s. He put on an adjustable stem so he could lower the front end of the bike akin to a TT frame, though he used a standard bar with clip on tri bar. Raising the stem is easier than changing the bar.

The other thing to consider with this option would be a seatpost to bring you forward and shorten the top tube, and position you over the bootom bracket. With an adjustable stem you can then replicate a TT bike type aero position.

Could be a faff changing it back to road mode though.

+1 for power meter. Great bit of kit, esp for time trials. It’ll stop you going into the red zone on the climbs and help you keep it on the rivet on the downs.

Getting fitter is the best way to improve times

no it isnt…….getting STRONGER is! 🙄

May I recommend the PLF method of TTing…

Pedal like fk.

Anyway, getting stronger might be a good way to get faster but I assume he’s working on that too, and is not doing this instead of training…

Getting fitter is the best way to improve times

no it isnt…….getting STRONGER is!

Both wrong.

Getting F-A-S-T-E-R is the key…

If you’ve got a kit itch and are not going to buy a tt bike how about – starting at the cheaper end; skinsuit, rear wheel covers ( http://www.bike-science.com/products/wheels/aerojacket-disc-wheel-covers-p-1220.html), proper helmet,a power meter if you can afford it (realy recommended in Andrew Topham’s tt’ing book). Also consider getting a coach, which is not as expensive as you may think. For more tt stuff try here http://www.timetriallingforum.co.uk/index.php?s=fd05bc77be380e3ca5ad377a94da591b&showforum=2

Fitter = stronger = faster

Simples ❗

Fitter = stronger = faster

Much to learn you have, regarding bike racing.

Do you do a proper warm up?

Cheers folks, this is all good stuff. Definitely not looking for a training shortcut(!) – I do as much as I can fit in without going overboard.

I’d love a powertap, but can’t stretch to it just now. Couple of my mates have recently got them and its massively tempting but just can’t afford it at the moment.

SBZ – probably don’t warm up enough tbh. In my head I aim for a good steady 30 mins on the turbo to finish 5 mins or so ahead of my start but usually end up being so ill-prepared and late its a race just to make my start. The last 23 was done with zero warm up, straight out of the car and up to the line!

For the most comfortable (and natural-feeling) aero position I can find, I’ve set my saddle way forward on the rails to effectively move myself more over the BB, but my current stem is pretty long and I notice I’ve pulled the clip on bars in a couple of inches to compensate. Might experiment with a shorter stem.

Think I need to take a couple of pictures from the side, that should answer a few positioning questions!

Anyone noticed a difference using an aero helmet on a non-TT bike?

Anyone noticed a difference using an aero helmet on a non-TT bike?

Topham in his book reckons 20-30 seconds in a ten and a minute in a 25

Do like Fabien does and get a motor fitted to your seat tube…. 😀

Usual bumpf rolled out is position, helmet then bike (in order of effectiveness). Get your position nailed first, then if you’re determined to shave time, get an aero helmet and then start mucking about with your wheels, bike and clothing.

Rider is far and away the most unaero bit on the bike.

Was suggested to me that a photo head on is useful – if very anal lay it over graph paper and count the squares you cover. As you change position repeat. Fewer squares more aero.

Side photo place a semi transparency over a photo of TT rider who is a similar size to yourself and has a good position.

Have to say I was never that anal but it made sense at the time. Other factor is comfort. If you are uber aero but lose too much power it can be self defeating. Where a turbo which measures power can be handy (powertap or the like may be better but the turbo option is cheaper).

A proper bike fit. These guys are meant to be very good.
bike dynamics