Any reasons why I can't runa HT2 road chainset on my mtb?

I can't think of any, just thought i'd check on here to see if i have missed anything.

Cheers

You'll need a road front mech , an MTB one won't cope with the larger rings on a road chainset.

I'll be running single speed. I need a chainset with large BCD to stop fouling on my trick stuff bb

no reason you can't, only things to watch, does the crank clear the chainstay, the lower Q factor of a road bike and the wider chainstays of a mountain bike MAY be an issue.

Obviously the smallest ring you can run won't be as small as on a mtb specific chainset, but as you are using it single speed just run a bigger sprocket and get a smoother drivechain.

no reason you can't, only things to watch, does the crank clear the chainstay, the lower Q factor of a road bike and the wider chainstays of a mountain bike MAY be an issue.

At one point I'd planned to use a compact 34:50 double on the front of an Inbred set-up as a commuter but it didn't get far as there was no clearance.

In the old days you would have just bought a longer bottom bracket,so much for progress

B/B axle will most likely be too short. other than that. nothing.

The Q-factor is a bit of a problem… A mate runs HT2 Dura-ace cranks singlespeed on his SC Chameleon. He had to chamfer (read file the hell out of) both crank arms to clear the stays, and has to run the EBB almost all the way forward, and he only has about 2mm clearance… His cranks are 170mm, but the 165mm ones would be much better. It looks amazing though! Don't know what he'll do when his chain needs tensioned.

Erm, why dont you just put a mtb chainset on with bigger chainrings on??

i run a fsa gossamer mega exo (ht2 style) on a mtb singlespeed with the 39t on the outer chainring position(keeping in mind it requires a 68mm shell) or it all goes tits up.

suppose it'd be a bit different on a mtb frame with big tyre clearance tho! like the chameleon mentioned above.

I had the same issues with a trickstuff ebb. A 105 road crank was the best solution in the end. Even better would be to get one of the new Phil Wood external ebb's 🙂 I also used a Race Face crank with the granny ring mounting studs ground off and that was fine. As others have said, the q-factor may be too narrow and cause the ends of the cranks to hit the chainstays, this is very dependent on frame design.

Raddogair – its nothing to with chainring size its the BCD, bolt mountings are the problem they foul on the BB.

Sam What frame did you use the 105 on? Its one of your swifts that i'm playing with.
Think i'm just going to with a chain tensioner.

It was one of the early proto Pegasus. 105 should be OK on a Swift.

Sorry to hijack the thread – sort of related topic though. Could I run an MTB integrated spindle crank on a road frame? I think the spindle will be too long? Will adding spacers be ok? I'd be worried that the cups and shell may not have enough threads mating?

Normally road and mtb frames are 68mm shell, so mtb cransk should fit in that respect.

MTB frames are 68 or 73mm, if it's 68 then your only issue is crank clearance, if it's 73 it won't work.

An MTB chainset will work fine on a road bike, you'll just need to use spacers as you would on an MTB.