Ok, so was running my SRAM X9 shifter with an SLX bottom pull mech on my Lapierre. No problems and worked absolutely fine for months.

Now trying to set up the same X9 shifter but with a top pull high mount SLX mech on my Titus. Seems the first click shifts the mech from small ring to big ring in one jump. If I slacken the cable off so that it actually stops in the middle ring with the first click, then the cable is totally loose (and may as well not be clamped) when in the small ring.

I’ve changed the cable and not totally convinced I’ve threaded the cable in the shifter correctly. Does anyone have a photo of a circa 2007/08 X9 front shifter internal?

I have used the SLX mech in question before on a triple ring set up, so it does work ok.

I know its SRAM/Shimano, but I thought front mech and shifter were compatible? Or worked ok previously at least.

The mech cage is ~2mm above the chainrings as its meant to be.

Anyone got any idea?

they are compatible as i run an X0 and slx front set up
Was the front shifter set to inner when you set up the mech?
dont you just take of the black top cap and thread it through??
goes googling

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3eWo_uTWFo[/video]
or pics here
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/technical-tuesday-sram-shifter-cable-replacement-2010.html

Cable routing on the mech?
You can’t really route the cable wrong in the shifter. Undo screw thing, take off the cover, take old cable out, put new one in its place.

It should work fine; I’m using X9 shifters with an XT top swing dual pull front mech but the first time I tried it I got the cable routing wrong and it didn’t work. 😳

The front shifter is slightly different internally to the rear one. Blue plastic at a superficial level as opposed to red, but there’s a little hooked metal ‘arm’ about 5 or 6mm long that folds round the cable head as it seats against the plastic. As opposed to the rear where the cable is just fed into the plastic locating ‘seat’.

Thought I had the cable routed the same as the last time I used it on a top pull frame. Cable comes off the top tube and straight down/out to the cable clamp bolt on the drive side. Cable pull up, pulls the arm and moves the mech out.

I have exactly the same issue on my chameleon with x9 shifter and x9 mech. Can’t see what causes it as all other bikes are ok.

Go 1×9 problem sorted! 🙂

Is the cable clamped under the correct side of the bolt on the mech?If it’s under the inner side then it’ll move the mech much further per click of the shifter.
Edit: there’s often a small lug alongside the clamp bolt(depending on mech type)that the cable has to pass around, rather than go underneath.

Yep, the internals of the front shifters are different to the rear with the bkue plastic.

I still think it may be a cable routing issue.

I was having the same problem the with my x9 and XT front mech. I kept adjusting the tension and the limit screws until it started to worked vaguely correctly. Think what caused mine in the first instance was the cable was over tight.

Glad it is not just me. I had this problem with an X7 shifter and an SLX top pull front mech as well. I fished an old X Gen mech out of the cupboard and went with that as well.

Got s cheapo pressed steel X4(?) mech that works ok, but the steel clamp looks like it will dig into the frame good and nasty.

I haven’t pulled the cable tight at all, just clamped it as it falls virtually. Have a Deore mech of the same design as the SLX which is marginally better but still not right. To get it working, the cable is flapping all over the place in the small ring.

There is some paint loss where the cable clamps, from when I used it before, so I’m fairly sure the routing is ok….

Good to know I’m not alone!?

I got it!

Coatesy/Onyourbike were right….cable routing issue. Multi pull SLX used as a top pull has a lug on the outer edgeof the ‘actuating arm’, around the bolt. The cable has to bend round this and then clamp underneath, so the cable is pointing in behind the seat tube, rather than coming straight down and clamping inside the lug. There’s a groove on the back of the clamp arm that gives it away.

Cheers