Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
  • Pro 2 converters – QR to 12mm
  • _tom_
    Free Member

    Basically are the Pro 2 converters for QR to 12mm bolt through any good and do they actually work well on a rear Pro 2? Looking at 2nd hand dh frames and a lot of them have 12mm rear end..

    coatesy
    Free Member

    It’s more than just converters needed, the axle needs to be replaced as well.The system works pretty well, it’s main weakness only really comes to light if it’s combined with a Maxle-lite with a waisted central section which doesn’t support the hub axle at it’s most highly loaded point.

    Munqe-chick
    Free Member

    what coatesy said, you need the new hope 12mm axle and end caps. Due to bearing size the axle is a bit thin, and when used with a maxle lite tends to snap (been a few threads on here and loads on the wider tinterweb) for the reason coatesy explained. A lot of people replace the maxle lite with a BETD axle which costs an eye watering 45 quid for what is essentially a 6 inch long 12mm diameter bolt. CRC do something similar for a more reasonable 25 quid

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=26370

    and I nearly bought a land rover cylinder head bolt new off ebay for about £6 to do the same job (appeared to be right dimensions and made of stiff, tough but heavy steel). I should probably buy a load, re-package them as a DH upgrade and sell em at 20 quid a pop…

    I suspect the Pro 2 Evo was Hope’s admission that the Pro2 couldnt really cope with 12mm axles, Hope advised me against using Pro2 with a maxle lite when I enquired on how to convert mine (having bought a frame with one), which is a bit cheeky when Orange supply bikes built with 12mm Maxle Lite and Pro 2s…

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    coatesy
    Free Member

    Worth noting that Orange/Hope campaigned to get the original non waisted axle re-instated, and Orange now supply their 12mm equipped bikes with them again.

    _tom_
    Free Member

    Ok so the total cost of converting my hub if using that sun axle would be about £50.. still a fair bit cheaper than a new wheel I suppose!

    coatesy
    Free Member

    Yup, gives you the opportunity to service the ratchet and pawls too, would recommend taking the oppotunity to put new pawl springs in at the same time(they fatigue and break, and if you’re not aware of the symptoms you’ll not know until the last one goes. Sod’s law say’s it’ll be a long walk from the furthest point of your ride), for £2 it’s not worth leaving them.

    Munqe-chick
    Free Member

    and you can sell your maxle lite for more than that sun axle costs. They retail (maxle lites that is) for £50+, I sold mine on ebay as a BIN £25 (ie cost of the sun axle) and had my arm bitten off and about a dozen follow-up “have you got any more” emails. Doh.

    foxyrider
    Free Member

    I did a rebuild article on this – just swap the innards were necc:

    http://www.cyclistno1.co.uk/features/maintenance/hope-pro-ii-rear-hub-service.htm

    _tom_
    Free Member

    What are the pawl spring symptoms? I noticed a while ago my cassette is a bit “sticky” when backpedalling compared to how it used to be. Could just be the freehub bearings though, I just haven’t bothered to sort it out yet 😳 Going to give everything a proper service over the next month though.

    Yetiman
    Free Member

    I can’t say I noticed any symptoms on mine before the last spring finally broke (thankfully not too far from the car park). I’ve now replaced the crappy springs with 4 small zip ties cut down to about 5 or 6 mm, which are working ok so far…….it was a bodge I recall reading about on here last year 🙂

    coatesy
    Free Member

    Tends to run a bit quieter when the pawl springs break (less pawls to click = less noise), though this also happens when it fills up with shite. Both good reasons to service it anyway.

Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)

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