I Bought some 8 x 4s of 12mm pplasterboard yesterday, tapered edges. They are only tapered along the long edge.
How is one meant to deal with joins along the non tapered edges?
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Plasterboarding
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Posted 2 years ago #
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tape?
Posted 2 years ago # -
Get a man in...
Posted 2 years ago # -
and how is your kitchen coming on then?
It sounds like the Gaudi cathedral in Barcelona - only 3oo years in the making
Posted 2 years ago # -
M8 spent hours putting up some paster board, so there were no gaps.
When the plaster's arrived to skim it, they did nothing but complain... they need the cracks between the edges of the boards to anchor the paster to apparently...Posted 2 years ago # -
Nice to hear your concern stoner...the finish is getting close! It's redecoration of several rooms and the new kitchen FWIW.
I'm having a paint party at the weekend, I've had 6 days of work this month to sort it and 2 left, P&D is being drafted in and carpet fitters too.
Posted 2 years ago # -
12.5mm is available up to 3600mm iirc
if you still need to joint the principle is the same but tape is applied wet ( i.e virtually no build up) and plaster over the tape is very thin / across a wider area.
google "the white book" if you want proper advice on all things drywall
Posted 2 years ago # -
Heather Bash - Member
12.5mm is available up to 3600mm iirc
if you still need to joint the principle is the same but tape is applied wet ( i.e virtually no build up) and plaster over the tape is very thin / across a wider area.
google "the white book" if you want proper advice on all things drywall
All good advice. The none tapered edge shouldn't give you too many problems if you do this. Just be careful when sanding it back, if you sand the centre of the joint too much you'll end up exposing and tearing the fibre tape which will be tough to cover up.
z1ppy - Member
M8 spent hours putting up some paster board, so there were no gaps.
When the plaster's arrived to skim it, they did nothing but complain... they need the cracks between the edges of the boards to anchor the paster to apparently...Utter, utter guff! Gaps take more work to cover. The boards are designed to butt tightly together. Plus if the gap is needed to anchor the plaster, what's holding it on across the rest of the sheet?
The thing to remember when dealing with plasterers is we like to moan and get our excuses in early.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Hope you used moisture resistant (green) boards if it's in the kitchen. After all they cost about £2 a board more!
C
Posted 2 years ago # -
Plasterboarding sounds lame. I was hoping for something more like waterboarding...
Posted 2 years ago # -
you are standing the boards upright and then fixing them to the stud work, aren't you?
if you need to butt-up the non-tapered ends you can run a stanly knife along the edges to cut a small beveled edge. gives plaster more to grip onto and can make skimming a little easier.
Posted 2 years ago # -
alpin - Member
you are standing the boards upright and then fixing them to the stud work, aren't you?
if you need to butt-up the non-tapered ends you can run a stanly knife along the edges to cut a small beveled edge. gives plaster more to grip onto and can make skimming a little easier.
I honestly think that way, madness lies, you'd never catch a taper doing it. If you did that you would have to cover all the raw plasterbord with watered down PVA or it would suck the moisture out of the plaster/filler instantly and it would probably fall off the ceiling. The white side of plasterboard is treated so plaster will adhere to it, which is why on the grey side most have "plaster other side" printed on them. They don't need anything else to help plaster stick.
Posted 2 years ago # -
Cheers all. It's for a ceiling. The GF is helping me, I reckon they will become 4 x 4's in order that I can lift them up in place
Posted 2 years ago # -
Use a dead man prop thing to help lift them up, with two people its easy!
Posted 2 years ago # -
I call this GIB and GIB stopping but the same thing and having just re-Gibbed the kitchen last week I have som recent experience.
Just butt them up together and use proper drywall or GIB screws to attach them. Try not to pierce the paper cover but don't be too worried if you do. Joins are covered in GIB tape and then you skim the whole lot. Depending on grade of finish will define what you do from then but generally if your walls are flat as poss and your joins are pretty neat all you need is a light sand (careful not to get too enthusiastic and expose the tape again) and then seal it all with a primer coat (not water based). Its a b astard to do as its hard work but once its done you'll geta good finish. My kitchen looks lovely and this is the last walls I need to gib in this 150sm m house (all external and internal walls been replaced as well as all ceilings !!).Posted 2 years ago # -
mema - Member
Use a dead man prop thing to help lift them up, with two people its easy!
Will try that but they seemed pretty heavy and GF is no gorilla!Posted 2 years ago # -
Prop one end up with a deadman then you take the other side, stand on something that will give you the height lifting the your end up. All that the GF needs to do is twist the deadman which will increase its height pushing the board upwards. It is really easy if you have the board cut to the right size and there is no need to keep of repeating!
Posted 2 years ago #
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