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P7 Torch Adaptor / 18650 Holder
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turboferretFull Member
I’m not going to post up everything which I had on the previous threads, so a very quick recap to those who were hiding under a rock in December 😆
18650 Battery holder to take 4 cells, wiring to configure either series, parallel or combination of the 2 for DIY lighting set-ups, and also a complete kit and adaptor to screw into a P7 light giving extra runtime from an external pack. Also a way or reducing the weight on the head when helmet mounting.
Complete threads here, here, here and here should you want to look into the background and development.
Current situation is the prototype P7 torch fitting arrived yesterday, so here it is next to a standard torch
This one hasn’t been anodised, the production ones will be black
Unscrewed from the head
With a 2fish lock-block onto the closest thing to a handlebar I had without getting cold going outside!
One issue I see is the balance point of the modified torch – previously using a lock-block you could Velcro it onto the centre of the torch, now the centre is in fact where the little cooling fins are. I’ll give this a good test and see if heat is a problem, but I’m sure other mounts would alleviate this issue. Trout also suggested using a zip tie instead of the Velcro on a lock-block to keep cooling fins exposed.
More updates hopefully over the weekend
Let me know your thoughts, as this has developed through the STW and other bike forum feedback – I was never intending making light mods to begin with, but I appear to be doing so now 😛
I have a long list of names of people interested in purchasing, so I’d like to keep this updated to anticipate orders – if you are interested, let me know.
Cheers, Rich
CustardCreamFull MemberRegistered interest before on here.
If that’s been lost, still count me in for full kit.
Same name – CustardCream.
Thanks.
pk-ripperFree MemberI think I registered some interest previously too – maybe with a “yorkshire” in my name then…
Oh, and red anodised for me! 😀
GWFree Membercould you not just drill a hole in the adapter to bolt it to an existing QR Handle bar mount like this?:
turboferretFull MemberI should have mentioned that I have a note of everyone who registered interest before on my ever increasing spreadsheet, the only issue will be that I didn’t note down everybody’s email addresses, so if they haven’t re-registered, or don’t have an email address in their profile now, I’ll struggle to contact them.
I haven’t really addressed the issue of mounts, as everyone seems to have their own preferences – I like the lock-blocks as they are cheap and versatile. I also want to buy as few parts as possible to minimise the amount of stock I have to buy in advance and financial outlay.
Cheers, Rich
GWFree MemberSorry, I’ll re-word that ;o)
would it be possible for us to drill a hole in the adapter to mount a suitable QR handlebar mount?
carlphillipsFree MemberI have a few friends who would be interested in these, could you post some info about price etc.
my mail is in my profile..thanksturboferretFull MemberRight, apologies for delayed response, been busy removing a gearbox from my motorbike 😥 and also working on these holders over the weekend.
Repeating the pricing (slightly revised due to cable costs being higher than I’d anticipated)
Battery pack without cable ~ £12
Battery pack with cable ~ £17 (with 2.5mm male plug) – increased from 2.1mm
Battery pouch ~ £7
P7 tail cap (to replace the battery tube) ~ £20Complete package ~ £37
All would have about £1 postage on top to the UK, a bit more to the rest of the world
The internals of the adaptor are potted – this eliminates the need for lots of screw in bits and pieces as the P7 has, must suitable to short runs when trying to keep costs down, and assuming every-thing’s OK to begin with, should ensure it remains so!
The cables I’ll be using are these, up from 2.1mm as I was struggling to find ready made cables at sensible prices in that size.
I am undecided on the idea of putting a threaded hole in the side for a mount. The wall thickness of the adaptor is only 1.5mm, so there wouldn’t be a huge number of threads gripping on, so a fair chance of potential stripping. Of greater concern, would be the potential for internal shorts. The body is the negative, and the internal contacts are positive, if the attachment screw was a bit long, then it could short out the battery pack. With 4 cells, this could be some considerable current before the protection circuitry kicked in, which could fuse everything together in a bit of a mess 😯
I’d be much more comfortable avoiding this issue entirely 😀
Right, the prototype is up and running with the internals all potted, and works nicely – a fair bit brighter than my 5-mode P7 on full power. It does generate a good deal of heat, hopefully this’ll stabilise to something sensible when on the move.
I also have another mould in process, using my new vacuum degassing chamber, hopefully bubbles will be an issue of the past!
He’ll be cured by this evening, I might even manage to cast the first one tonight.
Cheers, Rich
turboferretFull MemberGuys,
It is with great regret that I will not be continuing to pursue the P7 adaptor concept 🙁
There has been overwhelming enthusiasm from MTBÃers all over the world, much more than I had envisaged when I started messing around with battery holders. I am very sorry to disappoint a lot of keen prospective buyers.
Let me explain – I had rather naively assumed that one P7 was the same as another, and I could produce a universal fitting to replace the battery tube. However, while they look the same from the outside, the internals seem to change quite frequently, which would at worst render the adaptor useless, or at best mean it would only fit a few torches. Trying to keep track of design changes and produce a guide of what torch a potential buyer has, and thus which adaptor is required, is beyond what I am willing to do. Given the potential for large numbers of returns on adaptors which won’t fit, and the very small profit margin on each one, the chances of making a considerable loss are pretty high. I would also have to keep a fairly high inventory level of parts, and commit to fair sized production runs, so despite the provisional orders, the risk is high.
I will still be making 4 x 18650 battery holders, and pouches, suitable for DIYÃers or people wanting an external pack for existing lights, but not a complete system. I cast my first finished holder using my rapid prototyped mould, and it’s excellent, fantastic surface finish and geometrically perfect.
If people want one of these, I’ll be making quite a few, £12 + postage to anywhere in the world, let me know, will have them available very shortly in 4S1P, 2S2P or 1S4P.
Thank you to everyone for their constructive comments and useful input over the past month or so, it has been great to tap into a wealth of knowledge, ideas and experience. It has been great fun, and kept me amused for a good few weekends and evenings, but a number of variables seem to be conspiring against me. Sorry for letting you down.
Cheers, Rich
carlphillipsFree Memberah i’ll bet your gutted after all the hard work research etc.. it was looking good too.. 😥
BreamFree MemberThat’s a shame Rich, but good on ya for having a bloody good go. Put me down for 2 of the holders with pouches, I’ll just have to bodge my own.
Why don’t you get in touch with Deal-Extreme and sell them your concept at a small fee 💡
jfebFree MemberTurboferret – how gutting for you and for us hopeful customers.
Has anyone got any good ideas as to how to connect the battery holder to a P7 torch without one of turboferret’s screw-in adapters?
Gary_MFree MemberGutted Rich as I’m sure you are. I was looking forward to building a double light syste. I’ll need to have a bit of a rethink about how to take out the middle section of the battery.
turboferretFull MemberIt is a shame, I’m a bit disappointed, but there seemed to be too many variables to contend with.
I have spent a lot more time and money on the battery holder itself than the torch adaptor, so not a huge amount wasted really, it’s been an interesting little project.
A few ideas for rigging up external power to a P7, first decision is whether you make a dummy 18650 cell, or connect direct to the battery terminals.
A dummy cell could be a simple as a bit of dowel with a drawing pin in each end, a slot sawed half way through lengthwise, and wires soldered to the ends of the pins (might have to be brass pins and not plated ones).
Another idea would be to solder directly onto the spring terminal and brass terminal inside the battery. For the tail-cap end you’d have to make sure you had a reasonable length of cable as it’ll get coiled as you screw in the end.
Another idea from MTBR was little crocodile clips on the terminals!
To get the cable out of the torch, what I’d do would be to dremmel a slot down through the tail-cap threads into the meat of the battery tube. That way the cable can be easily removed, and plugs and the like don’t get in the way.
I would steer clear of any cheap cables and sockets, the more expensive ones from BatterySpace and the like are justifiably so, the last thing you want is a dodgy power connection.
Cheers, Rich
jfebFree MemberRich – may be you could sell a bundle of battery holder, pouch, cables and crocodile clips? Just a thought?
turboferretFull MemberI’m not so convinced on the crocodile clips concept myself 😆 but will certainly be offering holders and pouches.
I must admit I’ve gone off the idea of buying in things like cables, and selling them on, I’ll quite possibly be stuck with a load of them unsold, which I want to avoid.
So, I won’t be selling any kits ready to plug and play with torches, just some components for the DIYer.
Cheers, Rich
DrillskiFree MemberRich, 11 outof 10 for effort my son!
I’m still up for a pair of holders and pouches, ( the 4 cells in parallel variety). I think the selling the idea on to Dealextreme is a good one, especially if you have a working prototype to send them. Their contacts in asia could probably reverse engineer it and knock up a thousand units in about 48 hours for peanuts!Drillski
peternadin at btinternet dot comDrillskiFree MemberJust a thought about bodging now guys.
If i remove the batery tube completely, and i remove therefore also teh clicky switch from the end, do i have to replace this with anything fancy, i.e. does it have any important circuitry in it, or is it just a locking and non locking switch, or does it contain the multi mode jazzy bits? If it is justa simple switch,could i replace it in the circuit with a another similar affair elsewhere in the circuit?
Drillski
turboferretFull MemberDrillski, the switch is a simple basic latching on/off, although the 2 mode has 3 positions, direct, through a resistor, and open. The driver for the 5 mode torch is in the emitter pill.
You say remove the battery tube, but do you realise that the pill screws into one end of the tube, and the whole thing screws into the head of the torch?
This is why people favour cutting the tube down, as otherwise you have to cut some threads.
Some great info about modding and lots of photos of the internals here
Cheers, Rich
DrillskiFree MemberSoooooooooooo, i could cut the battery tube off behind the emitter, put in a blanking plug, run in a lead from the battery through said plug that made contact with the positive contact on the emmiter and the shortened battery tube, with an inline switch built into the batery lead, like this one..
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4415
all it would mean would be that i would have to fully turn it on and off to cycle through the modes. Am i right?
turboferretFull MemberThat solution sounds as though it’d work, although it’s a momentary off that you need to cycle through the different modes. Most switches do have a state where they are off but not fully latched, so should be OK.
Keep us posted how you get on, good to see ingenuity at work 🙂
Cheers, Rich
gazcFree Memberi’ll have a battery pack, cable and pouch (maybe 2)
garycartwright@hotmail.com
cheers
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