On-One Frame for Commuting/Touring

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On-One Frame for Commuting/Touring

16 posts & 12 voices | Started 2 years ago by gethers | Latest reply from simonk

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gethers - Member

I came across this forum whilst searching online for info on On-one frames. I'd like to build a steel frame up for commuting, and possibly touring, with rear rack, disc brakes and mudguards. I've read the following threads:

http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/on-one-frame-for-touringrack-slot-drop-out-or-er-the-other-one
and
http://www.singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/advice-on-tourercommuter

and seen that a couple of forum members have fitted full-length mudguards (epicsteve and mk1fan respectively). I'd be interested to know what fixing points (in addition to the braze-ons by the rear dropouts) there are (e.g. behind the bottom bracket and on the rear wishbone/seatstay) for a rear mudguard. I gather that tyre clearance may be an issue - I'd probably try and fit Schwalbe Marathon Cross tyres (26 x 1.75).

Would the standard Inbred frame (i.e. without 'track' dropouts) be the best to choose? I'd probably want to fit a derailleur gear system.

Any advice gratefully received.

Cheers.

Posted 2 years ago #
s8tannorm - Member

Don't know about the mudgaurd issues but I do a fair amount of 'touring' on a slot dropout inbred and it's proved very much up to the job. I can't imagine a std inbred being better or worse.

Posted 2 years ago #
Rev Will - Member

Join the dark side. Or a Pompino does the job for me. You don't need discs on the road etc etc.

Posted 2 years ago #
PJay - Member

I you're going to tour with a 22, 32, 44 chainset I think you'll be fine but you might find that the wider stays on the current Inbred prevent you fitting a 24, 34, 48 that some people use. There's also no bridge on the chainstays.

Posted 2 years ago #
B.A.Nana - Member

I've been thinking about a 26er On-One scandal frame with rigid forks, for commutes to work along the canal. I want full length mudguards over 2.1 tyres and I've been considering buying some cruiser bike mudguards and trying to make then fit somehow (cruiser bike mudguards are generally made to fit 2.1 'ballon' tyres), maybe using zip ties and drilling some holes in the mudguards. I've no idea yet if this will work or end up looking like a dogs dinner.

Posted 2 years ago #
TandemJeremy - Member

Mrs TJ has a on one inbred as a commuter. Full touring type mudguards and a rack - ingenuity and cable ties / clips to get the guards to fit - there is clearance for 1.75 tyres no problem and just enough for 2.1s

Posted 2 years ago #
epicsteve - Member

I never did get round to fitting the front 'guard to my bike however the full-length rear fitted no problem, as did the rack, using the standard mounts. I was using 1.5" tyres. I'd worked out a way of fitting the front using cable ties but never got round to it in the end.

I also had a 26,36,48 chainset but never got round to fitting that either!

Due to recent additions to my fleet it's quite likely my current Inbred (slot-dropout) will be re-tasked to touring/commuting duties soon though.

Posted 2 years ago #
PJay - Member

The point about a 24, 34, 48 chainset being problematic relates to the later Inbred (like my 853) that have the bridgeless stay design (hence the comment about no bridge on the chainstays). I think that the slot dropout Inbred and the current 'not slidey' ones have these stays. I've also got an old DN6 Inbred (2003 design) which has flatter, crimped stays. I had a 24, 34, 48 chainset on this, on a 47.5mm chainline and had bags of chainring clearance. On my 853 with bridgeless stays there's minimal clearance with a 22, 32, 44 chainset on a 50mm chainline and I reckon anything larger is a no go. I think people might be talking about different models and chainring clearance, tyre clearance and braze-on do very between the two.

Posted 2 years ago #
mk1fan - Member

Hello and welcome to the Forum.

My Inbred is an earlier model with the bridge on the chainstays that has a threaded hole to fix a mudguard to. I used a ti bolt to prevent rusting issues. It also has only a single brazed mounting on each of the drop-outs. Not a problem as you can mount both the mudguard and rack to the same mount.

I fitted a Topeak disc-specific DX rear pannier rack. Both the rack and mudguards were a straight forward fit. However, the rack does make setting up the rear brake calliper arwkward. Faffy rather than difficult. I run a 140mm rotor but I don't think there would be any other issues with a 160mm rotor.

I also run 32 x 700c wheel/trye set.

The front forks are a little short though. I fitted a set of Cotic Roadhog forks that have a 400mm a-c height which is a little short. I fitted a Cane Creek Plus Five headset to raise the front end a little but it's still low. The reason I fitted these forks are so that I could run a disc brake and full mudguard up front. They are a bit springy too. Which is great for commuting duties but not for touring duties.

As for chainsets. I've got a 36 / 50 compact.

Posted 2 years ago #
gonetothehills - Member

I've just rebuilt my slot dropout Inbred into a winter road trainer - 26" wheels with Conti slick-ish tyres (can't remember what they're called). I did try to fit 'proper' mudguards but copped out and gave up and went for a whaletail seatpost mounted rear and a steerer mounted front MX style on that I picked up off here. They look gopping but work really well.

I'm glad I went for this set up as whilst piling along last night, I hit a decent pot hole and can't help but feel if I'd gone down the more obvious route of a 700c road bike based winter setup, I'd be the proud owner of a crisped front wheel. I also like having the discs for winter braking, so couldn't more highly recommend the Inbred as a base for a tourer / trainer. They offer an excellent riding position too - stretched but not too much.

Mine's very happily running an HTII 22.32.44 setup, 9spd rear with the mech on the dropout hanger. It's also got bar ends, but don't tell anyone...

Posted 2 years ago #
jonb - Member

I commute on an old v brake singlespeed inbred. I can get a 42t ring in the middle slot so you might get a 48 on the outside?

Mudguards are ok except for the seatstay bridge as there's no hole for the bolt (they are not inbred forks but similar. I went for cable ties and they've been fine for 2 years. Front forks were equally difficult but I used a modified handlebar end plug with a washer to give me something to anchor to on the bottom of the steerer.

Posted 2 years ago #
gethers - Member

Thanks for everyone's comments.

The frame I would be interested in is the 'standard' (if that's the right description) Inbred in white, in size 18 inches (so *not* the 456 or 29er). It would appear from what people have said that the bridge between the chainstays (behind the BB) to attach a mudguard was on earlier frames but not on the most recent ones? Was there ever a threaded mounting point for the upper mudguard bridge on the wishbone/seatstay (or have people always had to use zip ties)?
Does anyone know around what year the changes (wider chainstays/removal of chainstay bridge) were made to the frames?
Maybe a second-hand frame would be the order of the day to avoid potential problems with lack of mudguard multi-mounting points and the wide chainstays?

As far as brakes and gears are concerned I was thinking of cable discs with 160mm rotors and a 9 speed rear/front triple (28/38T with a chainguard/bashguard in place of the third chainring).

Posted 2 years ago #
mk1fan - Member

No there isn't a mounting hole on the seatstay bridge. I made a simple bracket out of ali angle fixed to the pannier rack mounts to fix the mudguard to.

Posted 2 years ago #
PJay - Member

I thought that there was a mounting on the chainstay bridge of the older Inbreds, but not on the wishbone for a mudguard bridge (I'd have to check though). I bolted my mudguard bridge through the rack and that worked well.

Posted 2 years ago #
mavisto - Member

What about one of these? CLICKY

I know they're not On One, but they're as good as (same company).

If the geometry is similar to my On One 29er, I might be temped to a Kaffenback myself.

Posted 2 years ago #
simonk - Member

Following this thread closely, loads of cool advice, i currently have 2 geared inbred frames, one new i am that i am building up for spring and my old one that i want to use for touring/comuting services. As it is pretty battered and really needs a re-spray i am thinking of sending it off to get some extra braze on's fitted at the same time full mudguard and rack eyelets extra bottle bosses, probably set me back about £100+ to do it all and i am just wondering if it is worth it, sadly every time i see a Kaffenback i am very very tempted as i really like the look of them.

On a slight hijack has anyone any ideas were i might get a rigid mtb for that has rack eyelets?

Posted 2 years ago #

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