Hi peeeps

What are you running on your nukeproof mega? crankset wise

am looking to try a double ring…. maybe a XT M785? would thet be ok with a 9 speed rear mech short cage sram + a XT 3 speed front mech? with sram shifters?

thanks

You have to use either 22/34 or 24/36 or 22/36 etc on the Mega.

The SLX double and bash come in 36/24. So I went with that. I’m using the nine speed dual SLX crankset up front, with a 10 speed SLX setup at the back. Works perfectly fine.

Not many of the new double cranks (without bashes) come with the correct chain ring setup……spose you might be able to swap them out.

SLX with a 36t ring and an Mrp mini g2, I had it as double and bash originally but never used the 22t ring so ditched it in favor of the Mrp.

Truvativ Stylo GXP crankset for me setup for double & bash.

Bash is a Truvativ Rockguard & I’m running a 36/24 tooth setup.

It’s 9 speed (X9 shifters & X9 front derailleur).

I’m running a Blackspire Stinger chain device.

Rear mech is X7 – medium cage.

Hammerschmidt

i run xt double and bash

SLX 22/36 double in 170mm
Replaced the outer bash with an e13 I had, saved over 100g

SLX double has steel pedal inserts that the XT doesn’t, if that makes any difference to you. Bare cranks are only about 50g heavier than XT.

ark1 – how you finding that hammersmidt? I read that the chainline was all wrong for it? Would be keen on one though!

SLX 22/36, 170mm, blackspire guide and an SLX double specific fron mech, old XT 3speed front shifter, works fine.

I run 1×9 with a 32/bash up front with a Superstars Plasma chainguide and an X7 short cage mech. When I eventually get everything to break at the same time I’m going to swap to 1×10 (11-36) and prob swap the front ring to a 34. It’s fine for now tho

1*9 here
Truvativ descendant 36t and e-thirteen LS1 guide.

sometimes I miss a smaller gear and 1*10 would be perfect. But to be honest most riding I do on it is gravity assisted or hike a bike anyway..

Hammerschmidt works great no dropped chains and good ground clearence spoke to nukeproof before i brought it and said it would work ok

Doesn’t a hammer alter the chain tension and so the suspension action? or somesuch?

No probs with the suspension action and no change in the chain tension

1×9, 32t, Saints.

1×10, 32t, Raceface Atlas, Straitline silent guide.

Slx 22 36 9 spd with stinger

So despite Nukeproof saying it’s designed for 34/36 I could get away with a 32 with few consequences guys?

I’ll jack in my dual setup if I can go 32 f 36 r.

Bwaarp-no consequences other than spinning out sometimes descending, but very rarely, only really if for some reason you’re chasing someone down a fireroad or something. I try not to waste a climb by descending on a fire road 🙂

” XT M785? would thet be ok with a 9 speed rear mech short cage sram + a XT 3 speed front mech? with sram shifters?”
Assuming 9spd casette/chain I think so*. But 9spd chainrings (over narrower 10spd** ones) ought to last longer?
*So long as a 9spd chain will shift properly on 10spd chainrings
**IIRC XT M785 is 10spd only?
Also, thought not sure, are there 10spd only front mechs? Or are front shifters all still 1:1 and front mechs will work with (almost?) any shifter/shifter speed?

If it were me Id probably take the 3g ‘penalty’ and save the £difference and get an SLX front mech

“cranks are only about 50g heavier than XT”
I think the SLX crankarms without steel pedal threads that come with the triple chainrings (M660?) are something like 3g heavier than XT (M770) crankarms

” despite Nukeproof saying it’s designed for 34/36 I could get away with a 32 with few consequences”
Id guess that’ll be to do with how much room there is for the chainring against the chainstay. ie a 38t probably wont fit, but a 32 is smaller. Maybe a 32 could change the chainline slightly from where they designed it around but its not a massive difference
Not like the chainline difference to a 22/24T hammerschmidt

I think the hammerschmidt chainline thing is do with most full suss bikes being desinged around certain chainring sizes (at least used to often be 32 and/or bigger, depending) So the 22/24T granny might be left (or partly deliberately) with undesirable pedalling characteristics for all your riding due to pivot placement, a hammerschmidt being stuck with it
I believe an Orange 5 for eg shouldnt be run with the new style 2ring chainsets with small/medium and medium/large rings as the pivot placement was never desinged to run with eg 40/28 chainrings

I could of sworn the chainring size can effect the suspension action. Pedalling characteristic’s are designed around certain chainring sizes etc.

But if I can get away with it, sweet because I reckon I could pedal everywhere on a 1×10 32/36 setup that I could with my dual.

Nice way to save 1/2 a lb and simplify my bike. When is hope bringing out the 9-36 tooth integrated cassette hub? That will sort the “spinning out” issue!

” despite Nukeproof saying it’s designed for 34/36 I could get away with a 32 with few consequences” Id guess that’ll be to do with how much room there is for the chainring against the chainstay. ie a 38t probably wont fit, but a 32 is smaller.

Nah, its about the optimum diameter to stay in line with the pivot point thereby reducing chain induced bob and that. I have a 32t front to 36t back and its just fine. Climbed quite well at Cannock the other day, got up the steeper bit after the crossing no problem with that setup.

I could of sworn the chainring size can effect the suspension action.

You would have been f’ing correct! 😉

With a single pivot, the optimum position for the pivot is in line with the centre of the chain, hence the specified chainring giving chain tension directly through the pivot. This leads to neutral characteristics and takes chain tension out of the pedal induced bob equation.

A larger chainring will move the chain tension above the pivot, leading to a tendency to compress the suspension under load.

A smaller chainring moves chain tension below the pivot, leading to a tendency to extend the extend the suspension, which may loose some small bump sensitivity when pedalling but it can help the wheel ‘dig in’ as it’s effectively being pulled into the ground.

There looks to be plenty of space on the Mega for larger than 36T and there’s nothing stopping you running smaller – 36 is just the recommended ‘optimum’.

Same as Kayak says above – no problems for me with a single 32 and 11-36 rear. Zero difference when climbing out of saddle etc. Using a 22 or 24 granny would cause more bob.