Reilly RS7 Stainless steel, custom built by Mark Reilly himself
I've waited 6 months for this and when I got it out of the box this afternoon, I couldn't have been more happy….so happy in fact that I got immediately carried away and spent the afternoon building it up!
The brazing, finish and little touches are beautiful - but I would say that wouldn't I?
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Matching Ti stem:
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Cabling up:
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Complete! - SRAM Force 22, Hope RS4 hubs on Open Pros
(Before anyone says, I know need to sort the steerer out and the pink striped Arione has to go and be replaced with an all black one!)
Quick shakedown says it rides beautifully - just need to get some miles in on it!
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You've left the bin out.
Ok, pet peeve. People get custom bike frames made and still use a stack of stem spacers.
Jeeeeeeeseus, if its custom it should fit and no spacers should be need.
Looks nice, like the chrome rear stay detail against the blue / purple.
Nice colour choice.
You've left the bin out.
Next doors….!
Ok, pet peeve. People get custom bike frames made and still use a stack of stem spacers.
Jeeeeeeeseus, if its custom it should fit and no spacers should be need.
Blimey! - I did say I needed to sort the steerer out! 😀
Nice. But I'd put a set of Elite stainles cuissi bottle cage cage that to compliment the frame.
I do like fillet braze steel. My TT bike is just a work of art. That or proper lugs. Welding is just not as nice.
Lawn needs trimming where it butts up against the slabbed tpath and the tarmac - two fails.
Half moon lawn edgers are available at all good centres.
Other than that - lovely frame and your build complements it.
Nice bike. Looks classy.
Love the frame, but the wheels seem (and it may just be the photos) to make it look cheap...maybe too many spokes? Are they 32 hole hub/rims?
Lovely, with the stack proviso, and
put a set of Elite stainless cuissi bottle cage
this. Got a pair on my Reilly T325 and they really complement Ti and stainless frames from both the colour/finish and the retro style befitting of skinnier tubes.
Beautiful.
Trying to decide on a custom steel frame myself.
Currently looking at Donhou, Feather and Quirk but will check out Reilly.
Ok, pet peeve. People look at other people's bikes and assume that the aesthetics would always be improved by not having stem spacers and/or that the owner doesn't want a little versatility in their frame.
😉
That said, the spacer should be silver rather than black, obviously.
Not for aesthetic reasons but in my mind if it's custom built to a specific person and spec they shouldn't be needed.
Off the shelf bike, sure, chuck in a spacer or two if needed. Custom, no shouldn't be needed.
Black conical spacer if one absolutely must 🙂
@TiRed - I'm liking the bottle cage suggestion - off to get a set now!
Needs a nice stem/seatpost/saddle. Other than that, it looks good.
Can I have first dibs on frameset when your selling 😆
Lovely rig 8)
on and on - Member
Ok, pet peeve. People get custom bike frames made and still use a stack of stem spacers.
Jeeeeeeeseus, if its custom it should fit and no spacers should be need.
Is it not just personal opinion? If somebody wants a higher position on the front, I reckon the frame looks wrong with a long headtube for a given size, regardless of whether they move the top tube up with a bigger slope or just leave a big extension of the headtube above the top tube.
I reckon it looks a lot, lot better with normal frame dimensions and a couple of headset spacers to achieve a position.
Love the frame colour. Looks a bit sparkly too. Totally agree about getting some Ciussi cages and I'd add a pair of skinwall tyres to the shopping list.
Thats nice 😀
if its custom it should fit and no spacers should be need.
According to [url= http://www.bike-manual.com/brands/trek/om/assets/pdfs/BT10%20ca_steerer_stem%200701PN.pdf ]Trek's guidance[/url] the spacers serve an important safety function:
"Always place at least one 5mm spacer below the stem. This spacer is in addition to the bearing cover), which must be at least 5mm. If the stem rests against the bearing cover, a point load is created on the steerer that could eventually cause the steerer to break."
The irony of this compared with an old fashioned quill stem, is that combined with the typical 30mm recommended maximum amount of spacers and the need for the bottom of the stem not to be below the bung, it leaves only a very narrow range of adjustment both for initial fitting of the bike to the rider and also for any subsequent alterations the rider might want/need to make later on.
Bikes go on working well, bodies don't always. On custom steel mtb frame, as my back has worsened, I've gone from flat stem, flat bars incrementally to riser bars and stem with spaces. With new forks I still have a spacer left for the next adjustment.