My new frame has arrived and to say I am a little bit excited is an understatement! Just waiting for new forks to arrive and I can build it up and get out again…

Tasty – we need photos when it’s built.

Thats currently what I’m lusting after (in white though)!

Very nice 🙂

Lovely!

Let’s see some pics of her all built up please!

Sweet. Am thinking of the same in a few months.

What size is it, and what height are you? Have you weighed it?

I just got one of those in yellow. yet to build it up too.

did you get the cable/ down tube guard thingy and are you going 1×10 on it?

double post – doh

Nice!

Yes very sexy. I was waiting for it to load and hoping it was not a 69’er bamboo nichewhore frame.

Bit of inspiration for you. This is one of the best looking bikes I have seen for quite a while.

Tad too much red, but almost perfect IMO

Kudos – I think I’ve seen that bike on the MTBR forum. They really didn’t spare any expense on it did they!

A mate has the HD as well. Very versatile machine; you can stick totems on it and still break the 30lb barrier!

Kudos – I think I’ve seen that bike on the MTBR forum. They really didn’t spare any expense on it did they!

Easily 6k, I think. I rarely lust after expensive bikes, but this is one of the exceptions. Pure sex.

phwoaaaar.. 😀

Very nice 😀

Easily 6k, I think.

And the rest! The wheels would have cost £2,200, so wheels and frame but NOT the BOS kit, would have come in around £4,200 mark.

The BOS suspension adds about another £1200, taking it up to £5,400 before you’ve added anything else.

Frame, fork and wheels for almost £5.5k eh! With the bling kit on it, list price is looking to be around £7k!

Thanks guys – the build is going to have to take some of my old kit across from the SC Heckler until I can afford to upgrade! This time I could only just about do new frame and forks, so over coming months I will try and do the frame justice.

The Build for now will be:

Frame & Shock – Sparkly new and as you can see it with RP23 Kashima.
Forks – Sparkly new Fox 36 Talas 160mm Fit RLC
Wheelset – Crank Bros Iodine
Gearing – SRAM X0
Brakes – Hope Tech M4
Cranks – First on the upgrade as currently 3×9 XT (will be 2×10 2012 XT)

I will try and get some pics sorted as the build comes on….

Cheers for the comments though guys. 😀

Looks nice, I nearly went for one myself. The only thing that put me off was the cable guides on the TT. They look like such an afterthought.

Plus I would have been annoyed in not buying the bike I really wanted, a Nomad C, so I just went in for that 🙂

I think I’ve seen that bike on the MTBR forum. They really didn’t spare any expense on it did they!

Well, it looks like the owner was too tight to buy a seat QR.

He must be good, riding everywhere with the saddle that high.

18 posts in and no ones mentioned that sofa!!!! Stunning frame though

M6TTF – Member

18 posts in and no ones mentioned that sofa!!!! Stunning frame though

Haha! Can’t be held responsible for the sofa – it’s the one at my LBS, where the frame is until the forks arrive. 😆

Mojo owner here, so am biased – but definitely a nice bike. Like the natural carbon frame – mine’s not that, but am not complaining…..

xcentric – Member

Mojo owner here, so am biased – but definitely a nice bike. Like the natural carbon frame – mine’s not that, but am not complaining…..

Out of interest do you have the model made after July 2011? This one has the bigger rear end, 142mm x 12mm – so wondered whether it makes it as stiff as they say it does?

Very jealous, I wanted an HD but spent the money on a Covert plus Deville instead.

Itheisinger – The HD models before July 2011 still had a 12mm axle, just 135mm wide (Look at my profile pic). The only difference with the 142 is that there are shoulders for the hub to fit into, making it easier to put the wheel on. You have to line things up with the 135mm before putting the axle through.
And yes, they’re as stiff as…

Hobnob – The cable guides look better when the cables are in them. You just unbolt them if they’re not needed.

that pure porn… one lucky person. need picture when completed

d45yth – Member

Itheisinger – The HD models before July 2011 still had a 12mm axle, just 135mm wide (Look at my profile pic). The only difference with the 142 is that there are shoulders for the hub to fit into, making it easier to put the wheel on. You have to line things up with the 135mm before putting the axle through.
And yes, they’re as stiff as…

Thanks buddy – makes sense. Haven’t owned a Mojo before, so wasn’t aware that it was a 12mm? Thanks for the feedback.

No problem, I see you say you’re only waiting for your fork. What wheels/hubs have you got already?

d45yth – Member

No problem, I see you say you’re only waiting for your fork. What wheels/hubs have you got already?

The rest of the uild is coming from my Heckler and when I can afford to upgrade some more stuff I will (mainly want to change from 3×9 to 2×10). But at the moment the wheels/hubs are Crank Brothers Iodine (Iron colour, which incidentally matches the grey/bluey colour on the frame).

The reason I asked was to see if your rear hub can be converted to 142×12. I think it’s possible with the Iodine’s? You’ll have to get hold of a conversion kit.

Got one thrown in with the frame! 😀 And already converted the hub ready for the new arrival!

Hmm salivating all over my iPad, may have to let the spicy go !

OP – I was in the same position nearly a year ago. Mine’s set at 140 though but keep wondering if I should change to 160 and stick a bigger fork on? I don’t suppose it will add much weight. 😕

Last Feb!

d45yth – Member

OP – I was in the same position nearly a year ago. Mine’s set at 140 though but keep wondering if I should change to 160 and stick a bigger fork on? I don’t suppose it will add much weight.

Go on…you know you want to!

I am putting the new Fox Talas 160mm RLC, ohhhh…. don’t keep me talking about it – I just want to ride it NOW!

They really are nice frames and wouldn’t say no to one myself. We’ve sold loads of SL’s and HD’s and had our first SLR in last week – very pimp indeed. Love the colours of them too but for me it has to be the raw carbon.

This being my first carbon frame – has anyone got any words of wisdom when attaching things like the brake mounts, seatposts etc. (i.e. use compound when fitting?). Any little tips from experience would be great….

Get lots and lots of helicopter tape, it will help protect it. I took a lump out my Mojo a while back from about the only part of the frame not covered. http://www.tape2go.com/Product/Bike-Frame-Tape/47 .

Frame looks great.

Carbon paste also works well for the seatpost, very little pressure needed.

OP – I don’t think there’s much you need to do differently than you would with a normal frame. Apart from the seatpost, no other parts are fixed directly into the carbon.
If you’re going to use helitape, look for a bloke on ebay who sells it with a matt finish. Normal tape is shiny and will stand out a mile on your matt frame. Apart from protecting against chain slap and cable rub I wouldn’t bother doing the whole frame. The kind of impacts that will take chunks out of the frame are surely going to rip through helitape imho!

d45yth – Member
OP – I don’t think there’s much you need to do differently than you would with a normal frame. Apart from the seatpost, no other parts are fixed directly into the carbon.
If you’re going to use helitape, look for a bloke on ebay who sells it with a matt finish. Normal tape is shiny and will stand out a mile on your matt frame. Apart from protecting against chain slap and cable rub I wouldn’t bother doing the whole frame. The kind of impacts that will take chunks out of the frame are surely going to rip through helitape imho!

Thanks buddy. The frame came with the Matt finish helitape which is ideal. As for parts direct into the carbon, what about the rear brake mount? I don’t have the frame at home yet, but I know it’s a post mount frame, so does the mount go directly into the carbon? Thanks for the advice.

Carbon paste and a Ritchey torque key?

And surely you can put the caliper directly onto the frame, maybe with a shim – not sure what disc size this will give you.

The rear post mount is some kind of coated magnesium not carbon. Caliper bolts need to be tight so the caliper doesn’t move, put loctite on them.
I don’t think the tape that comes with it is matt finish either?…mine wasn’t.
Get some self-amalgamating tape to put under the chainstay protector and maybe put some on the seatstays.
Hope you get it built up soon, I’m full of cold so can’t get out…taking mine to Morocco in a week or two though, wish it was a 160 for that!

Edit – the rear caliper mounts directly if you’re using a 160/165 rotor. I had to use a post to post mount for using a Formula 185. It’s still looks tidy and is a lot better than an IS mount.