Not quite as bad as it sounds, as I have 3 sets here and am forever changing them in the hope that the pair that I fit has better traction than the pair I'm taking off.

They are:-

WTB Weirwolf 2.1 f & r
Panaracer Cinder 2.1 r / 2.25 f
Panaracer Smoke Dart 2.1 HC f / Smoke Lite 1.9 r

Anyone use any of these? I'm tempted to get a pair of Swampthings for this weather, TBH.

i used to use wierwolfs all the time

Maybe you should look at your technique too 😀

Jedi, how did you fit the back one, like the front or reversed? (optional). What pressure on a hardtail? How were they in mud?

Mikey, I'm fairly certain that my technique is consistently …. shite! 😉

i used them facing forwards( the pattern) 2.5 bar pressure

One guaranteed way to cure your habit (had it myself and so can vouch this remedy works) is to set them up tubeless. It can be such a messy faff that once you've done it you won't want to ever change them again.

I just put my Nobby Nics back on for a very wet and muddy night ride yesterday and they were ace – just one slip in 2-hrs which was okay….

35psi, same as me.

OK, one stage further; what's the best tyre for shite technique riders in mud? 😀

schwable black shark

Wot gentee said

I hope ther 2.35 weirwolfs I have just ordered are going to give me the necessary grip for the hardtail. I found Cinders okay in all but really claggy mud but in 2.1 too pinch prone (as seems to be the case with 2.1 weirwolfs to, maybe down to my weight and lack of riding finesse).
If you are riding in real clag from all that I have read Swampthings are a prety good bet however look at the weight of them-it put me off, If i want the strength I would just put the Minnions on the hardtail.
Try going down to a 1.9 or like me go up in width to surf the surface always adds to the skill levels seeing how far you can slide on full opposite lock before laying down-or recovering it.

Nobby Nics are bloody expensive! Still, probably very good. Did you have 1.8, 2.1, 2.25 or 2.4?

My Weirwolfs are 2.1.

Jedi, have you run the rear in reverse? I know my mate does on his SS and he gets no rear wheel slip at all whereas I ran mine with tread pattern on my SS on the same ride and I did get a bit of slippage when laying down the power on the same sections.
I have to say that the lateral grip and speed with them is great and they self clean so well.

i stopped using them when speccy came out with enduro tyres 🙂

Schwalbe Balck Sharks aren'y cheap either……blo*dy good tyres though, swear by mine.

I got my Nobby Nics for £24 each online (ust)…1.8 front and 2.1 rear.

schwable black shark

1.5 or 2.1? Wondering what pressure to use in the 1.5 for a 15-stone rider on a hardtail.

1.8 front and 2.1 rear.

Hm, the opposite of what I expected. Don't you use the thinner on the rear to cut down through the mud better?

i used both 1.5 and 2.1 prefered 2.1

weirwolf in mud ? 😯

… I must be shitter than I thought

(they're nice in summer though)

2.1 Sharks have a serious bite pattern. Fine in all mud except sticky Cambs clay!

Conti Verticals 2.3 all year round, Think they were circa £25 for the pair (wire beaded) Foldings for the weight weenies 😛

weirwolf in mud ?

… I must be shitter than I thought

(they're nice in summer though)

Well, we're still learning stuff like this. 😳

it is a bit of a swamp where I ride, Old Git – you may have better conditions

Not really. Even Swinley today was a suburb of Mud City Central!

I put some mud tyres on for the first time in 3 years at the weekend. Normally run an intense edge on the front and a rampage on the back. Theya re great and deal with most things.
The trailrakers were unreal in the mud of sherwood pines though at the weekend. **** draggy though

Swampthings front Medusa rear on the hardtail around Surrey at the moment.

Three things that make a big difference, two completely free, one roughly the cost of a new pair of tyres:

1. Reduce pressures as low as you dare, esp in the slip and mud.
2. Accept that the bike is going to move around a bit. Do snaking "S" turns, hundreds of them, and get used to it – keep looking through the trail as you do that, never down at the trail.
3. For the price of pair of tyres, come and see us!

2. is where I'm going wrong, then. I keep looking down trying to avoid obstacles. 😕

S-o-o many tyres to choose from. 😐

Not sure about 3. – this links to another page. Was hoping to see lots of sexy tyres there!

From my experience, worrying about tires can be a lot in the mind. The more you think about it, the more you notice every little slip, and the more you worry that you've got the wrong tires. Granted, there's a lot of difference between tires, and you need to find good ones for what you ride, but try not to over analyze them. That's just my opinion.

I ride Minion 2.35 and I know they're great for me as I've ridden really well in very bad conditions. Sometimes I get a bit shaky and start thinking "are these tires ok?" but have to remind my self that it's not the tires, it's me!

From my experience, worrying about tires can be a lot in the mind. The more you think about it, the more you notice every little slip, and the more you worry that you've got the wrong tires.

Yes, I do this too.

If I know I've got hard compound or semi-slick tyres in slippery conditions, it makes me stiffen up as I worry about ending up on my arse.

And then I often do as a result of being too stiff.

Seriously, looking down makes things slippery – all the little steering movements that you involuntarily make when you obsess with steering around obstacles that don't need to be steered around… that breaks the traction.

Winter is slippery. I just ride the same tyres all year round and accept that there will be some wriggling about. I don't believe there is anything wrong with your tyres… but skills courses are available (on my link).

heh heh heh

it can be technique or just sometimes its just too damn slippy with no other line choice 🙂

I normally run Mountain Kings 2.4 and am very happy with. For the winter I've just stuck on 2.3 verticals which seem better in the wet/gloop I'm pretty impressed, they roll fast, are light and grippy and a tenner each or something.

I run the same front all year (2.35 Kenda Blue Groove Sticky) and then switch the rear depending on how "core" the ride is. 2.2 Maxxis Advan if it's a bit rocky, 2.1 SMB if it's nice and smooth and not muddy (wet is fine), 2.1 High roller if it's smooth but muddy.

If you need real mud tyres, work on your technique and/or perhaps think about giving your trails a break and riding somewhere else.

I also find real mud tyres just make me realise how much of the trail isn't really that bad as you drag the horrid things around. And they're often lethal on wet roots and rocks too!

Maybe you should take all your tyres with you next time and try and ride the same route, in the same conditions with different tyres. Unless you do that you'll always be thinking that 'X' would have been better, with no prove either way. Even swapping tyres on the same ride may not work, there are so many varibles (pressure, speed, line, that bit a twig you went over the first time).

Thanks guys. Lots of helpful info, particularly about getting my head around the fact that it's probably me and my technique … or lack of it!

One more question; I was under the impression that the fatter of the two tyres should be on the front and the thinner on the rear – is this not correct?

I also find real mud tyres just make me realise how much of the trail isn't really that bad as you drag the horrid things around. And they're often lethal on wet roots and rocks too!

I would agree with this – after having mud tyres for one small bit that gets bad but pinging of routes and sliding out on other sections realised they aren't really worth it!

Mud tyres are often narrow to cut through the slop, which needs a bit more pressure to avoid pinches, which has you pinging off roots rather than the tyre wrapping around the root. Personally I think a 2.2 or thereabouts all-rounder with sub-30psi gets you more of what you need more of the time. After that, forget about tyres and concentrate on what's coming up next as opposed to what's under your wheels.

One more question; I was under the impression that the fatter of the two tyres should be on the front and the thinner on the rear – is this not correct?

Well! There are arguments for and against. I personally run fat front, skinnier rear. A draggy tyre will be more noticeable on the rear so I run a faster tyre for the feel of speed. Also, a front wash out is nigh on impossible to rescue if it really goes. A rear washout, I'm amazed at some of epic washouts I've managed tosave, prob luck more than judgement mind! So I'll sacrifice rear grip for more speed and less weight, but often it's not worth it on the front.

However, on a hardtail some riders prefer the extra pinch flat protection and extra cushiony comfot of a fatter rear – however, most will just run an equally fat pair rather than a fatter rear than front.

the toppest tip I ever had comes from my ski instuctor

Dont look at what you dont want to ski into.

I find the same applies, I keep my head up and look at where I want to go I find the bike does the rest and always remember speed is your friend!