Viewing 19 posts - 1 through 19 (of 19 total)
  • How to 'shoulder' a mountain bike
  • johnnygooner
    Free Member

    Off to Fort William tomorrow to ride in the no fuss Tour de Ben Nevis on Saturday. Amazing course, I did (slowly!) it last year but the hike a bike section would’ve been so much easier if I’d have got the technique for carrying the bike on my shoulder/back sorted.

    Can anyone explain or point me in the direction of web based pics or videos the correct/easiest method.

    Many thanks in advance

    jeffcapeshop
    Free Member

    i put the saddle on my shoulder, but it’s probably not very good for it and the front wheel sometimes hits stuff and knocks you off balance. but it’s the most comfortable for me

    swingbing
    Free Member

    This works for me, but won’t for you unless you have a reasonably large hardtail.

    buzz-lightyear
    Free Member

    Normally saddle on shoulder. If steep it goes on shoulders/back holding saddle nose and one handlebar.

    alfabus
    Free Member

    1. Face non-driveside, lift the non-drive crank to 12 o’clock.
    2. Grab both wheels by the rims at 4 o’clock (front wheel) and 8 o’clock (back wheel).
    3. Lift the bike slightly, duck your head under the downtube, and rest the downtube across your shoulders.
    4. Keep hold of the wheels and stand up straight

    Bike should be nicely balanced, and you can walk up the massive hill. If it is balanced well, you can probably let go with one hand or the other.

    Dave

    crikey
    Free Member

    You need a video or pictures of how to pick something up?

    Have you considered experimenting to find the best way for you?

    doug_basqueMTB.com
    Full Member

    Good for shorter distances or tight spaces or when you need one hand free.

    Edit: It’s just downtube on shoulder. Best with a double and bash rather than a triple.

    ChrisE
    Free Member

    LHS crank down, top tube across the shoulder blades, resting on the top of day-sac, L hand up on seat tube, R hand up on head tube. I have alefty fork but that shouldn’t matter

    C

    bigdugsbaws
    Free Member

    If you want to go faster, run alongside the bike as it will provide stability if your footing is loose and is likely to be less tiring as you arent bearing the full weight of the bike.

    james
    Free Member

    an oldie:

    I think I’ve only ever carried my FS bikes. Both have had horisontalish shocks so carried by the shock with closed elbow sort of thing

    scottidog
    Free Member

    I was showed the downtube across the back of your shoulders method recently, as per alfabus, and it was a revelation! Once you’ve found the balancing point it leaves your hands free for scrambling when the going gets steep

    johnnygooner
    Free Member

    I love this forum!! Thanks (nearly) everyone for the tips. I’ll have a play around in the morning and I may even report back!

    pdw
    Free Member

    I was showed the downtube across the back of your shoulders method recently, as per alfabus, and it was a revelation!

    +1

    It’s a good reason to convert to double+bash, as otherwise you’ve got a chainring unhealthily close to your neck 🙂

    I usually end up holding the bottom of the forks and one of the cranks at 6 o’clock, and as you say, you can usually hold it one handed.

    nwallace
    Free Member

    Did the route earlier in the year, I just pushed the bike up most of it and carried it over the odd obstacle.

    Took around 45 minutes but wasn’t really going for any sort of speed up it.

    I’ve already packed so I know I’ll be on a Blue Zaskar wearing a red and green PlanetX wool jumper.

    Really looking forward to it, even though last time round the route I was absolutely gubbed.

    Although not looking forwards to the descent to KL from the WHW and back up.

    grantway
    Free Member

    I normally put a piece pipe lagging over the top tube and zip tie on
    when i know i am going to do such an event.

    globalti
    Free Member

    Yep….in the old days people used to tape some pipe lagging or camping mat to the top tube and the seat tube and then later on some manufacturers even made a frame bag that fitted in the angle and gave you a curved padded corner to rest on your shoulder – I’ve still got mine.

    This was in the days when mountain bikes were carried up then ridden ridden down mountains, not used for posing in car parks and following man-made paths round and round a forest.

    cheez0
    Free Member

    carry it in way so that if you slip or trip, you can let go of the bike and not break your neck.
    sticking your head through the frame is suicidal imo
    some of those pics make cringe.

    ChrisE
    Free Member

    My way means me and the bike are fine if I slip or fall. I think the key is to getting it ballanced which I manage to do. Once walking just a light touch on the seatpost and that’s all I need.

    C

    tonyd
    Full Member

    This was in the days when mountain bikes were carried up then ridden ridden down mountains, not used for posing in car parks and following man-made paths round and round a forest.

    Post of the day for me! Why didn’t you ride up too? Sounds very amateurish.

Viewing 19 posts - 1 through 19 (of 19 total)

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